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Old 09-08-2019, 09:35 PM   #31
Wetroad 4x4
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I am in the process of doing what chicken friend has posted. The bearing race is much that the original cups. I have question regarding the photo of lower control arm & the stut rod & the half inch gap. If one where to make a tapered shim to make up that difference, it seems to me to an easier solution.
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Old 09-25-2019, 09:49 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wetroad 4x4 View Post
I am in the process of doing what chicken friend has posted. The bearing race is much that the original cups. I have question regarding the photo of lower control arm & the stut rod & the half inch gap. If one where to make a tapered shim to make up that difference, it seems to me to an easier solution.
About the gap I had between the strut rod end which bolts to the control arm, I now wonder if that was caused by me not having the torsion bar torsion tensioned to specs. So, if the gap appears, I suggest first doing the two measurements on the control arm (control arm-to-floor, AKA ride height) and then the calculation to see if it is spec.

I would caution to make sure to use the proper spec for your model of truck, since I think there is some variation. Also, I would rely on the Shop Manual as the ultimate source for the spec. When I get a chance, I'll post info from my Nissan shop manual.

The torsion rod puts a twist to the control arm and affect its relation to the body frame where the other end of the strut rod attaches, so I think I have a plausible theory.

If you read my early posts in this thread, this now raises the question of whether an out of spec torsion bar/control arm adjustment (aka ride height) can cause a "sawing" force on the strut rod bushing (because the rod doesn't naturally center in the holder).

Thanks for bringing this up again.

So, let me modify my recommendations on this DIY repair, to include mandatory checking and adjusting of the ride height, to specs. Make sure the ride height spec you use is correct for your model of truck. I would use the Nissan Service Manual as the last word. I think the information in the Haynes manual is taken from the NSM, don't know about the Chilton manual.


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In another related thread, you raised the question of whether welding the washer to the race could cause stress cracking in the bearing race because of the high carbon steel. That seems like a legitimate concern. All I can say is that mine are still holding after a number of years. I suppose you could use techniques to lessen the chance of that, like pre-heating or post-heating. My welds were minimal spot welds.

Last edited by chickenfriend; 09-25-2019 at 10:25 AM.
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Old 09-25-2019, 11:33 PM   #33
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And take it for a front end alignment after you do the work. Those new bushings will change the specs.
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Old 09-28-2019, 01:50 PM   #34
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I am spending my weekend replacing control arm bushings, strut rod bushings, etc. I figure to get an alignment when I am done. I am also thinking about lowering the front A LITTLE BIT by adjusting the torsion bars. Do I read you right that this could cause future problems with the strut rod holder? Or just reduce the life of the strut rod bushing? I will probably try to find blocks to lower the rear A LITTLE BIT in the future. nothing radical, but I do not want to open a can of worms that will cause a hassle in the future.
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Old 06-17-2021, 03:36 PM   #35
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Generally, I am not an advocate of altered specs for a road vehicle. Ride height, camber, caster, and toe are intertwined.

I'd guess changing the ride height by the torsion bars is going to decide if the compression rod centers in the cavity. Easy to prove with experimentation, I should think.
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