FS5W71C teardown pics - Infamous Nissan

SBJ · 03-12-2017, 04:37 PM

What's up everyone? I have a bunch of pictures left over from my trans teardown and rebuild and I thought I'd post them here just for the hell of it. This site has helped me out immensely since I bought my truck ~2.5 years ago and I thought I might try and pay it forward.

Removing the plungers from the shift control housing:

SBJ · 03-12-2017, 04:43 PM

Unbolting the case. The bolts are all identical except for the upper right, which has a clip to hold the wiring harness for the neutral switch.

What it looks like with the back of the case removed:

SBJ · 03-12-2017, 04:48 PM

Here's a close-up of all the goodies in the back, in the correct order.

The output shaft bearing has a snap ring on either side of it. Once I removed them I used a cheap 3-jaw puller to remove it.

Throwout cover removed:

All the guts removed from the case:

SBJ · 03-12-2017, 04:55 PM

The main reason for doing this teardown was because it was starting to grind going into 2nd gear and to a lesser extent, 3rd, especially when cold. If you look closely you can see the synchro teeth are pretty rounded.

Here's everything labeled.

A bit of a misnomer on my part...the gears marked '4' are actually the drive gears for the countershaft. 4th is a 1:1 ratio and those gears clearly have different numbers of teeth. To get 4th the 3-4 shift collar slides forward and grabs the teeth on the back of the input shaft gear, locking the input and output shafts together and causing it to spin as one unit; the countershaft is just kind of there.

cadillacdude1975 · 03-12-2017, 05:10 PM

wow. what a nightmare. im sure that if i had a place to work, and the proper tools and a good manual that had detailed specs and measurement, i could probably tear one down and rebuild it....but i dont have anywhere to tear one down.

SBJ · 03-12-2017, 05:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cadillacdude1975

wow. what a nightmare. im sure that if i had a place to work, and the proper tools and a good manual that had detailed specs and measurement, i could probably tear one down and rebuild it....but i dont have anywhere to tear one down.

I hear ya on that one. I live in a decrepit old duplex with no garage. I couldn't afford the professionals even if I wanted to, so repairs get done in the driveway or not at all. Originally I was going to build myself a workbench out of a pallet and some scrap lumber and do it down in my basement. This was done at my work after hours and on the weekends. I am fortunate to work somewhere that becomes a big empty warehouse after 5:00.

I have the FSM on my computer which I absolutely needed for this job. There will be many more pictures to come, I probably took 150-200 of them. I actually took a shot of all the tools I used outside of regular wrenches and sockets. A press (or access to one) is also a must.

ahardb0dy · 03-12-2017, 08:03 PM

I saw in a video for the 240 that if you change the 2 springs in the first pic, it takes out any slop in the shifter and improves the return to center of the shifter

SBJ · 03-12-2017, 08:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ahardb0dy

I saw in a video for the 240 that if you change the 2 springs in the first pic, it takes out any slop in the shifter and improves the return to center of the shifter

Thanks man, that'd be really easy to do from underneath the truck. 1st and 2nd have been a bit stubborn going into gear since I put it back together but 2nd is starting to get a lot smoother. I think it's starting to wear in. I have definitely noticed less slop in the shifter since I replaced that little bushing.

SBJ · 03-12-2017, 08:23 PM

Tools:

Here's a shot of the shift rods and forks on the other side. They are held in by roll pins so you'll need a set of punches to remove them.

Again, same misnomer as before. The gear labeled as 4th is actually the countershaft drive gear.

ahardb0dy · 03-12-2017, 08:27 PM

This is video I saw, no idea if this would work in the truck trans:

https://youtu.be/5BMfZk6usXI

03-12-2017, 04:37 PM	#1
SBJ Total Buzzkill Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: OR Posts: 3,141 Vehicle: 1994 Pathfinder XE Thanks: 348 Thanked 605 Times in 536 Posts	FS5W71C teardown pics What's up everyone? I have a bunch of pictures left over from my trans teardown and rebuild and I thought I'd post them here just for the hell of it. This site has helped me out immensely since I bought my truck ~2.5 years ago and I thought I might try and pay it forward. Removing the plungers from the shift control housing:

03-12-2017, 08:03 PM	#7
ahardb0dy The Post Count Whore Join Date: May 2014 Location: Sorrento, Florida Age: 56 Posts: 8,009 Vehicle: 2017 Nissan Frontier Desert Runner Thanks: 71 Thanked 1,037 Times in 942 Posts	I saw in a video for the 240 that if you change the 2 springs in the first pic, it takes out any slop in the shifter and improves the return to center of the shifter __________________ My name is Tony and I'm a Infamousaholic Current truck - 2017 Nissan Frontier Desert Runner , (formerly owned: 1993 Nissan Hardbody king cab 2wd, 90 Nissan Sentra, 94 Nissan Pathfinder SE 4x4, 05 Nissan Titan, 87 Nissan SE-V6 4x4 king cab, 94 Infiniti Q45t & 80 Datsun 310GX )

03-12-2017, 08:27 PM	#10
ahardb0dy The Post Count Whore Join Date: May 2014 Location: Sorrento, Florida Age: 56 Posts: 8,009 Vehicle: 2017 Nissan Frontier Desert Runner Thanks: 71 Thanked 1,037 Times in 942 Posts	This is video I saw, no idea if this would work in the truck trans: https://youtu.be/5BMfZk6usXI __________________ My name is Tony and I'm a Infamousaholic Current truck - 2017 Nissan Frontier Desert Runner , (formerly owned: 1993 Nissan Hardbody king cab 2wd, 90 Nissan Sentra, 94 Nissan Pathfinder SE 4x4, 05 Nissan Titan, 87 Nissan SE-V6 4x4 king cab, 94 Infiniti Q45t & 80 Datsun 310GX )

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03-12-2017, 04:43 PM	#2
SBJ Total Buzzkill Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: OR Posts: 3,141 Vehicle: 1994 Pathfinder XE Thanks: 348 Thanked 605 Times in 536 Posts	Unbolting the case. The bolts are all identical except for the upper right, which has a clip to hold the wiring harness for the neutral switch. What it looks like with the back of the case removed:

03-12-2017, 04:48 PM	#3
SBJ Total Buzzkill Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: OR Posts: 3,141 Vehicle: 1994 Pathfinder XE Thanks: 348 Thanked 605 Times in 536 Posts	Here's a close-up of all the goodies in the back, in the correct order. The output shaft bearing has a snap ring on either side of it. Once I removed them I used a cheap 3-jaw puller to remove it. Throwout cover removed: All the guts removed from the case:

03-12-2017, 04:55 PM	#4
SBJ Total Buzzkill Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: OR Posts: 3,141 Vehicle: 1994 Pathfinder XE Thanks: 348 Thanked 605 Times in 536 Posts	The main reason for doing this teardown was because it was starting to grind going into 2nd gear and to a lesser extent, 3rd, especially when cold. If you look closely you can see the synchro teeth are pretty rounded. Here's everything labeled. A bit of a misnomer on my part...the gears marked '4' are actually the drive gears for the countershaft. 4th is a 1:1 ratio and those gears clearly have different numbers of teeth. To get 4th the 3-4 shift collar slides forward and grabs the teeth on the back of the input shaft gear, locking the input and output shafts together and causing it to spin as one unit; the countershaft is just kind of there.

03-12-2017, 05:10 PM	#5
cadillacdude1975 The Gear Jammer Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Chattanooga, TN Age: 50 Posts: 10,753 Vehicle: 87 VG33 Pathfinder SE 4x4 & 87 D21 SE Thanks: 462 Thanked 1,417 Times in 1,281 Posts	wow. what a nightmare. im sure that if i had a place to work, and the proper tools and a good manual that had detailed specs and measurement, i could probably tear one down and rebuild it....but i dont have anywhere to tear one down.

03-12-2017, 08:23 PM	#9
SBJ Total Buzzkill Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: OR Posts: 3,141 Vehicle: 1994 Pathfinder XE Thanks: 348 Thanked 605 Times in 536 Posts	Tools: Here's a shot of the shift rods and forks on the other side. They are held in by roll pins so you'll need a set of punches to remove them. Again, same misnomer as before. The gear labeled as 4th is actually the countershaft drive gear.