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Old 05-08-2021, 11:17 AM   #22971
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I was hearing a slight tapping sound coming from the engine bay. So I checked the oil level and to my surprise. It had a drop of oil on the dip stick! So I topped it off and checked for leaks. Found the rear left corner of the valve cover had a trail of seeping oil. So I checked the torque on all of the valve cover bolts(10mm) and found some very loose and two of them were spinning in place. So I'll need to tap new threads into the two stripped bolt holes. There was even a bolt that wasn't the correct one. Was just an ordinary bolt not holding down the valve cover at all! I pulled the valve cover off and checked the rubber gasket and it proved to not be leaking. So definitely a little bit of work to do.
Oil is splashing out through the valve cover gaps. There is no real oil pressure in there. When you get the bolt situation fixed, just use Permatex brown in the brush bottle and a new gasket. Go in stages with the bolts to 8-10 foot pounds and not a bit more. The gasket and the sealer will do the work for you and no more leaks ever. Some years from now, you may have to do some scraping, but meantime you will have no leaks. And it could be a LOT of years.
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Old 05-08-2021, 02:28 PM   #22972
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I got all this for free. A buddy is stripping down a 97 for a dirt track circuit racer.
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Old 05-08-2021, 04:33 PM   #22973
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Originally Posted by XoXSciFiGuy View Post
Oil is splashing out through the valve cover gaps. There is no real oil pressure in there. When you get the bolt situation fixed, just use Permatex brown in the brush bottle and a new gasket. Go in stages with the bolts to 8-10 foot pounds and not a bit more. The gasket and the sealer will do the work for you and no more leaks ever. Some years from now, you may have to do some scraping, but meantime you will have no leaks. And it could be a LOT of years.
Thanks for the advice!

Am I to brush the brown Permatex on the top and bottom of the rubber gasket?
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Old 05-09-2021, 02:01 AM   #22974
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Thanks for the advice!

Am I to brush the brown Permatex on the top and bottom of the rubber gasket?
I don't like silicone very much. It's easier to use, but it likes to get soft after a while. I use Pematex brown, especially in places I don't expect to take apart anytime soon, like oil pan gaskets or valve covers. Easiest way on a valve cover is to put it on the head side first and make sure you go all around the bolt holes, too. Then put on the gasket. Then some around the valve cover itself, and ALSO around the bolt holes there too. After that, the bolts themselves are mostly for show.

Just kidding on the 'just for show' thing. But don't overtighten the bolts. They need to be snug is all, not torqued until they holler.

EDIT: I noticed you mentioned the rubber half-moon gasket. Yeah, you can do top and bottom Permatex on that too. Not too much there though. You don't want it sticking up too far.
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Old 05-09-2021, 02:13 AM   #22975
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I RTV (permatex RTV is silicone) around the entire oil pan gasket area if a proper gasket is not available. I RTV on both sides of half moon thing to keep it in place.


Once it's all cured it's pretty gnarly to remove the oil pan.
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Old 05-09-2021, 02:51 AM   #22976
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I RTV (permatex RTV is silicone) around the entire oil pan gasket area if a proper gasket is not available. I RTV on both sides of half moon thing to keep it in place.


Once it's all cured it's pretty gnarly to remove the oil pan.
Well...I will admit that if you use the RTV red, that's fairly tough stuff. I can't take the blue though. I have peeled that stuff off so easy it almost melts in your fingers. The high temperature red is better. I call it Mean Red.

I almost forgot...I had to edit the other thread, the one about the 'DB Cooper Party' we're tossing the second weekend of July. Anyone at IN is invited and its all free.

What I did was to create a two-page PDF that pretty much lays out the basic information, and the location/times, etc. It's going to be a lot of fun. No worries. We're not really cutting off attendance at 75 people. If we go above that, we will use the Forest Service permit. I just said that for the public version.
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Old 05-09-2021, 04:01 AM   #22977
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I used RTV black last time I did an oil.pan. Removing the pan almost resulted in a brown nose and lost teeth. When it finally let go after 20-30 minutes of nothing polite I was spitting blood and had a good and bruised face. The things I do for my truck....


One of these days I need to make it to one of your camp outs. The days around the 4th are filled with explosives, explosions, wood splinters and sneezing. I help set up and run one of the major fireworks shows in my area. It's a riot to do. I hope.to have some stuff the shoot out of my grenade launcher this year. I need to make that order. Stuffs expensive. Like $10 a shot for the launcher. It pales compared to our show though. I usually shoot 1.75" shells or 3" shells. We light those off by hand. With a flare. It's a big boom.
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Old 05-09-2021, 08:04 AM   #22978
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deerhurst View Post
I used RTV black last time I did an oil.pan. Removing the pan almost resulted in a brown nose and lost teeth. When it finally let go after 20-30 minutes of nothing polite I was spitting blood and had a good and bruised face. The things I do for my truck....


One of these days I need to make it to one of your camp outs. The days around the 4th are filled with explosives, explosions, wood splinters and sneezing. I help set up and run one of the major fireworks shows in my area. It's a riot to do. I hope.to have some stuff the shoot out of my grenade launcher this year. I need to make that order. Stuffs expensive. Like $10 a shot for the launcher. It pales compared to our show though. I usually shoot 1.75" shells or 3" shells. We light those off by hand. With a flare. It's a big boom.
The easy way to free a sticky oil pan is with a Stanley blade, a vise grips, and a small ball-peen hammer. You tap the blade gently into the gasket area straight-on, using the vise grip to hold it. Take the hammer and start tapping and cutting the gasket sealer all around the edge by hitting the Stanley blade. Go corners first, and then a bit around all four centers. Might need more than one Stanley blade. They get dull quick. Then use a rubber mallet to tap off the pan. Strike it near the bottom on both sides, back and forth. Works every time. If you have no rubber mallet, use a short piece of 2x4 and the ball peen hammer. You can also use the rubber mallet against the 2x4 as well.
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Old 05-09-2021, 12:51 PM   #22979
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By the time it let loose I had had an entire hand wrapped around the flange and had been trying to use my body as a slide hammer to get it off for 10+ minutes. No room for a mallet.



The original had a nice gasket and no RTV. It was nice.
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Old 05-09-2021, 08:04 PM   #22980
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changed oil and filter at 297,237 miles, a great truck, running like a champ....
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