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#1 |
Join Date: Apr 2022
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ok, I am having a lot of trouble removing the fill drain plug on the rear differential. It seems that the wrench and breaking bar with the little small doesn't set all the way inside and it makes it very difficult to get a good grip. I stopped before I did any damage to the plug. Is there a socket that doesn't have that ball bearing that I could use? or what else could I try?
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#2 |
Join Date: Jul 2015
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Scrape out the inside of the plug's socket. Try some different extensions.
Use PB Blaster to soak the threads overnight, spraying every few hours and tapping the plug with a hammer.
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1990 Nissan Hardbody, Aztec Red Standard cab, 4x4, KA24E, 5-speed Intentionally near-stock ![]() Mods: Second OEM horn, stereo/speakers/sub, mud and snow tires, HD trailer hitch (cat 3+), liquid bed liner, G1W dashcam Definitely not for sale! ![]() |
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#3 | ||
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LugNut has some great suggestions. Very wise to loosen/remove the fill plug before the drain plug !!! Can you post a good photo, I am not hands-on with your truck (I have 1998 and 2004 Frontiers). Realize that you can remove the differential rear cover quite readily if you need to work on that on the bench, or even replace it.
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2004 Frontier King Cab (2WD, 5-speed, 4-cylinder, 105K), 1998 Frontier regular cab (2WD, 5-speed, 4-cylinder 253K), 1988 Mazda B2200 (2WD, 5-speed, 4-cylinder, 220K), 1971 VW Convertible (140K), 2005 Yukon (215K), 1970 VW (260+K)
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#4 |
The Gear Jammer
Join Date: Apr 2013
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When I worked in the auto service industry, we had a couple of tool options. Check out https://www.mechanicsurplus.com/prod...SABEgKoefD_BwE
That is a tool you can grind down to fit the 1/2 inch pipe thread fitting. You hammer it in the plug and it has teeth that dig into the inside lip or the plug. Once you have it hammered in real good, get a 12 point socket that fits the other end and use a big breaker bar. Heating the diff case around the plug with a propane torch can make the metal expand for easier plug removal. Just be 100095488483% sure there are no fuel leaks when using a torch. |
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#5 | |
Join Date: Apr 2022
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![]() Last edited by jp2code; 05-02-2022 at 12:51 AM. |
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#6 |
Join Date: Apr 2022
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I have been using wd-40, but not the tapping with the hammer. So direct hit to the plug? Wouldn't it damage the plug?
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#7 | |
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I think it's the 3/8-inch drive. If it isn't going in easily, something is blocking the way. Like others have said, make sure you can get the top one free before tackling the bottom one. You'd had to dump out all of your gear oil and not be able to refill it.
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#8 |
The Gear Jammer
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1/2 inch drive ratchet or breaker bar is the correct size. Put the ratchet in there and use your leg to break it loose. Someone probably tightened the plug way too tight.
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#9 |
Total Buzzkill
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Yep, it should be a 1/2" square drive. If you have a 1/2" impact gun just put a socket extension on it and use that to break it loose. It'll come out. You can also put a jack under the breaker bar and push up on it to break it loose if it's really stuck. It's kinda sketchy but it works.
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FS5W71C transmission teardown and overhaul threads:
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#10 |
Join Date: Jul 2015
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Firmly tap, not whack, a rust-frozen bolt. WD-40 not the best at anything, but I still use it a lot for other things, including in locks.
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Original owner
1990 Nissan Hardbody, Aztec Red Standard cab, 4x4, KA24E, 5-speed Intentionally near-stock ![]() Mods: Second OEM horn, stereo/speakers/sub, mud and snow tires, HD trailer hitch (cat 3+), liquid bed liner, G1W dashcam Definitely not for sale! ![]() |
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