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Old 05-29-2022, 07:43 AM   #23881
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Originally Posted by hstuder View Post
Yesterday picked up spindles to un-lower my truck.
Will be removing the drop spindles this weekend.
Today, need to figure out what size tires to put on the truck after getting it to stock height or slightly higher than stock.

PIC REQUEST: RWD HB with 215 70 16 tires, preferably AT's or similar
I sold my 97 King Cab last fall and bought a 2009 Xterra for towing a travel trailer, but before I did that I slapped on a set of 15 inch wheels and tires. You get a slight raise without messing with the Prime Directive, and the truck handled better on corners, on the street, even off road. I would suggest going with 15 inch. Picture below when it was mounted with Cooper Cobra radials and American Beauty steel wheels. When you go to 15's, your speedometer will then read 3 MPH FASTER than you are actually going. This is no big deal and will sometimes save you from a speeding ticket.

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Old 05-29-2022, 01:38 PM   #23882
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I sold my 97 King Cab last fall and bought a 2009 Xterra for towing a travel trailer, but before I did that I slapped on a set of 15 inch wheels and tires. You get a slight raise without messing with the Prime Directive, and the truck handled better on corners, on the street, even off road. I would suggest going with 15 inch. Picture below when it was mounted with Cooper Cobra radials and American Beauty steel wheels. When you go to 15's, your speedometer will then read 3 MPH FASTER than you are actually going. This is no big deal and will sometimes save you from a speeding ticket.

The speedometer shouldn't have anything to do with the wheel diameter. The tire diameter would be the important info here. You could run 31" tires on 15" wheels, or you could run 195 55 15's on 15" wheels.
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Old 05-29-2022, 02:43 PM   #23883
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Originally Posted by XoXSciFiGuy View Post
When you go to 15's, your speedometer will then read 3 MPH FASTER than you are actually going.
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Originally Posted by hstuder View Post
The speedometer shouldn't have anything to do with the wheel diameter. The tire diameter would be the important info here. You could run 31" tires on 15" wheels, or you could run 195 55 15's on 15" wheels.
Correct.

I have 18-inch Titan wheels on my truck, but because I did a little research and got the same height tires (225/60R18), the GPS on my phone and those MPH trailers the cops put out on highways both tell me that I am only 2 mph off at 65 mph.

XoXSciFiGuy just told everybody that he doesn't know how to select the right tire sizes.
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Old 05-29-2022, 07:20 PM   #23884
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I replace the door handle on the drivers side.
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Old 05-30-2022, 03:10 AM   #23885
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Had air conditioner charged again over the weekend. Nice to be riding in the cool again.
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Old 05-30-2022, 02:30 PM   #23886
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Had air conditioner charged again over the weekend. Nice to be riding in the cool again.
Does anybody here understand the AC system? I do not.

One of my Nissans blows cold when I first crank it up, but before I get a mile down the road the air feels like outside temperature with occasional puffs of colder air.

I tried recharging the AC, but the pressure would change from low (below 25) to warning (over 55) every 10 or 15 seconds.

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Old 05-30-2022, 03:27 PM   #23887
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I understand it. But only about 30% of the operating system and how it actually works. Like, I don’t know what the expansion valve does. My truck’s air wasn’t cold at all. Luke warm at best. But it wasn’t “puffing” air like you describe yours. I know that newer vehicles use a circular fan that blows the air through the vents and gets clogged with dirt and gunk. My F-350 work truck had this problem like yours. The shop mechanic cleaned and reinstalled the fan and it worked like a charm! The blower fan is placed in the worst place where dirt and crud can clog the fan to the point of issue that you describe.

For warm blowing air issue. I took my personal truck to a repair shop.

They will perform a leak test and give you the results of the test. If all is good with no leaks. They will recover the old Freon and install new freon. My shop did this procedure and added 1.0 lb. of new Freon and my A/C System blows ice cold air! Freon is sold by the pound and that how they will charge you. I also tried the do it yourself can of freon and it did nothing. Was a waste of money when I did it. No leaks either on a 25 yr. old a/c system either!
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Old 05-30-2022, 05:02 PM   #23888
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I understand it enough to advise someone on what to do to repair their system, but not enough to do it myself.
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Old 05-30-2022, 06:48 PM   #23889
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PorknBeans View Post
I understand it. But only about 30% of the operating system and how it actually works. Like, I don’t know what the expansion valve does. My truck’s air wasn’t cold at all. Luke warm at best. But it wasn’t “puffing” air like you describe yours. I know that newer vehicles use a circular fan that blows the air through the vents and gets clogged with dirt and gunk. My F-350 work truck had this problem like yours. The shop mechanic cleaned and reinstalled the fan and it worked like a charm! The blower fan is placed in the worst place where dirt and crud can clog the fan to the point of issue that you describe.

For warm blowing air issue. I took my personal truck to a repair shop.

They will perform a leak test and give you the results of the test. If all is good with no leaks. They will recover the old Freon and install new freon. My shop did this procedure and added 1.0 lb. of new Freon and my A/C System blows ice cold air! Freon is sold by the pound and that how they will charge you. I also tried the do it yourself can of freon and it did nothing. Was a waste of money when I did it. No leaks either on a 25 yr. old a/c system either!

The expansion valve is there to regulate the flow of refrigerant into the evaporator core by forcing it through a small hole. It's what's responsible for the pressure on the high pressure side of the system. If there's too much refrigerant going into the evaporator there won't be enough room for all of it to evaporate (and remove heat from the air inside the cab). Too little and it'll all evaporate before reaching the desired temperature. In both cases you'll notice a loss of cooling effect.

I helped a friend fix the A/C in one of his cars recently. I tell people that they still need to take it somewhere and have the system evacuated first (unless it has a leak and all of the refrigerant has already leaked out). It's not quite as simple as just dumping a can of r-134 into it and hoping for the best. Ideally, A/C systems need to be charged by weight (a kitchen scale works as long as you know what the can weighs) and things like the compressor and receiver/drier use oil that needs to be replaced with the same amount. It's also important to pull a vacuum on the system and verify there are no leaks before charging it. In this case we got lucky...the culprit was the electromagnet that engages the compressor clutch. I was able to take the pulley off the front of the compressor and get the A/C working again without having to open up the system. It definitely wouldn't be worth a shop's time to do that, though. After you figure in the labor costs it's essentially the same as replacing the compressor.
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Old 05-30-2022, 07:28 PM   #23890
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Originally Posted by SBJ View Post
The expansion valve is there to regulate the flow of refrigerant into the evaporator core by forcing it through a small hole. It's what's responsible for the pressure on the high pressure side of the system. If there's too much refrigerant going into the evaporator there won't be enough room for all of it to evaporate (and remove heat from the air inside the cab). Too little and it'll all evaporate before reaching the desired temperature. In both cases you'll notice a loss of cooling effect.

I helped a friend fix the A/C in one of his cars recently. I tell people that they still need to take it somewhere and have the system evacuated first (unless it has a leak and all of the refrigerant has already leaked out). It's not quite as simple as just dumping a can of r-134 into it and hoping for the best. Ideally, A/C systems need to be charged by weight (a kitchen scale works as long as you know what the can weighs) and things like the compressor and receiver/drier use oil that needs to be replaced with the same amount. It's also important to pull a vacuum on the system and verify there are no leaks before charging it. In this case we got lucky...the culprit was the electromagnet that engages the compressor clutch. I was able to take the pulley off the front of the compressor and get the A/C working again without having to open up the system. It definitely wouldn't be worth a shop's time to do that, though. After you figure in the labor costs it's essentially the same as replacing the compressor.
I've just been having crappy luck finding A/C shops that know what they are doing in this town. I'm sure some do, but I have not gone to those yet.

I have another Xterra that has an A/C "cold" line that gets hot to the touch when it is turned on. I don't know what's going on with it, either.

I think I really need to find a decent A/C shop, but every one that I ask about adding compressor oil or pulling a vacuum just looks at me like I'm from Mars. That really doesn't leave me with a good feeling.
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