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Old 05-18-2022, 06:48 PM   #1
Dick96
 
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Question D21 Hardbody P1130 Swirl Control Solenoid Color

Hi everyone! I just signed up and this is my first post. I've used this forum a lot and thought that it's time to join the community. Long time listener, first time caller.



I have a 1996 Nissan Hardbody 4x4 4-cyl that needs some new swirl control solenoids (aka EGR vacuum solenoid, aka canister purge valve, etc...). There's 3 vacuum lines on it (2 bent on one side and 1 straight out the other) and a 2-prong connector. I've noticed that they come in a few different colors: green, brown, and black. In my truck, there's 4 that I've identified and 2 are black, the one underneath the air filter box towards the front is green, and the one under the throttle body that has a vacuum line to a metal canister (swirl control valve?) between the firewall and cylinder block is brown. Every parts store site will mention the color of the connector which leads me to believe there's something important about this. Is it important? Besides the color, they look almost identical and have the same "AESA123-##" stamped on the side. The brown ones seem to be significantly cheaper. For example, at AutoZone, the black Duralast is $98 and the brown Duralast is $40.


Thanks for your help!

Last edited by jp2code; 05-19-2022 at 05:04 PM.
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Old 05-18-2022, 08:41 PM   #2
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First of all…WELCOME !

Second, have you followed the steps in the Factory Service Manual, commonly referred to here as the FSM? It is the Bible for your truck. It is an easy component to test. I’ve done it NUMEROUS times and have never had one go caput. All of my solenoids are original to the truck. I’m also the original owner. Testing only requires two alligator clip leads with a tiny piece of cardboard or paper cut on size to place between the pins to keep the clips from shorting each other out when clipping them onto the pins. The pins are not polarity sensitive. For Resistance checks, a meter is needed to see if it reads between 38-42 Ohms. This is from my own testing done on my truck’s solenoids for reference if they are good or bad. None have been bad. Use your truck’s battery to energize the coil and you will hear a tiny “click” when power is applied to the pins. That tells you nothing is stuck or sticking internally and that it’s probably safe to assume the coil(solenoid) is good and energizing on command. Do an Ohms check too.

Third, all of the solenoids have 3 nipples on them. Looking at one is the same as looking at all of them. So no difference from one to the other. The nipple closest to the body or coil is the “A” nipple. The outer nipple next to “A” is the “B” nipple(these two are the bent ones). The straight one is the “C” nipple and this one normally comes from the main vacuum source.

4th, black housed solenoids are normally for the EVAP & EGR systems. Although the EVAP System for the Vent Valve out back by the spare tire has a green housing colored solenoid. Brown is for the, you got it, Swirl Valve Control Solenoid Valve. Say THAT 10x quick! That is the one that is connected to a 3-Way “T” connector going to the Vacuum “bulb” or swirl valve(intake butterflies) actuator, another to the Vacuum Gallery, aka metal tubes and the last one to maybe A or B nipple connectors. You can disconnect the actuator’s short vacuum line and apply vacuum to test if the actuator is working or not.

Lastly, I don’t believe there’s a difference in the solenoids. I believe they all use the same iron core with the same gauge wire and turns to make the coils. Because all use 12VDC, Resistance tests show the same range, they all have 3 vacuum connections and I’ve never had to change one out due to a Check Engine Light saying it’s P1130 or P1447. It’s been through my hands on testing that these solenoids have never fixed an issue or failed unless abused or neglected in some way. Which is rare as well. It’s always been another component in the solenoid’s circuit that normally cleared or fixed the issue at hand.

But download the FSM and go to the “EC” Section for Engine Control. This section will give you the flow charts needed to test your components fully to make a solid decision on whether or not that specific component really needs to be replaced. Unless you’ve got money to burn or just want to replace it. I would test and test again to be certain that component is the actual culprit.
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Old 05-19-2022, 12:21 AM   #3
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My solenoids went "click" but failed on the vacuum holding test. Use a vacuum hand pump on both pathways- one path while energized and the other path not energized to see if they leak. On page 282 of the FSM is the solenoid testing procedure- check "air passage continuity" between A&B and A&C with and without "12V current supplied between terminals 1&2". They can cause a vacuum leak.

Last edited by smith; 05-19-2022 at 01:49 PM. Reason: more info added
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Old 05-19-2022, 10:23 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PorknBeans View Post
First of all…WELCOME !

Second, have you followed the steps in the Factory Service Manual, commonly referred to here as the FSM? It is the Bible for your truck. It is an easy component to test. I’ve done it NUMEROUS times and have never had one go caput. All of my solenoids are original to the truck. I’m also the original owner. Testing only requires two alligator clip leads with a tiny piece of cardboard or paper cut on size to place between the pins to keep the clips from shorting each other out when clipping them onto the pins. The pins are not polarity sensitive. For Resistance checks, a meter is needed to see if it reads between 38-42 Ohms. This is from my own testing done on my truck’s solenoids for reference if they are good or bad. None have been bad. Use your truck’s battery to energize the coil and you will hear a tiny “click” when power is applied to the pins. That tells you nothing is stuck or sticking internally and that it’s probably safe to assume the coil(solenoid) is good and energizing on command. Do an Ohms check too.

Third, all of the solenoids have 3 nipples on them. Looking at one is the same as looking at all of them. So no difference from one to the other. The nipple closest to the body or coil is the “A” nipple. The outer nipple next to “A” is the “B” nipple(these two are the bent ones). The straight one is the “C” nipple and this one normally comes from the main vacuum source.

4th, black housed solenoids are normally for the EVAP & EGR systems. Although the EVAP System for the Vent Valve out back by the spare tire has a green housing colored solenoid. Brown is for the, you got it, Swirl Valve Control Solenoid Valve. Say THAT 10x quick! That is the one that is connected to a 3-Way “T” connector going to the Vacuum “bulb” or swirl valve(intake butterflies) actuator, another to the Vacuum Gallery, aka metal tubes and the last one to maybe A or B nipple connectors. You can disconnect the actuator’s short vacuum line and apply vacuum to test if the actuator is working or not.

Lastly, I don’t believe there’s a difference in the solenoids. I believe they all use the same iron core with the same gauge wire and turns to make the coils. Because all use 12VDC, Resistance tests show the same range, they all have 3 vacuum connections and I’ve never had to change one out due to a Check Engine Light saying it’s P1130 or P1447. It’s been through my hands on testing that these solenoids have never fixed an issue or failed unless abused or neglected in some way. Which is rare as well. It’s always been another component in the solenoid’s circuit that normally cleared or fixed the issue at hand.

But download the FSM and go to the “EC” Section for Engine Control. This section will give you the flow charts needed to test your components fully to make a solid decision on whether or not that specific component really needs to be replaced. Unless you’ve got money to burn or just want to replace it. I would test and test again to be certain that component is the actual culprit.
Great info, P&B
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Old 05-19-2022, 04:53 PM   #5
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Wow, thanks for the wonderful info, PorknBeans! So I actually arrived here because of the FSM chasing down a P1130 code. I replaced all of the vacuum lines and found 1 cracked (probably the culprit). Tested the 3 solenoids that I could reach (haven't tested the one under the TB) and the black one near the passenger fender had no "click" with 12vdc and showed resistance in the kOhms range. I figured that if one went out, the others might be close behind and to just replace them. If the $40 brown ones are equivalent to the more expensive black ones, I could save quite a bit on all 4. But considering your advice that they rarely break, maybe I should just buy one. Personally, I would have made them all green cause it's the best color. Thanks for your help!


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Old 05-19-2022, 05:06 PM   #6
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Speaking of searchability, Richard, I updated the thread title to include the error code so that others doing a Google search in the future will be more likely to display this thread.

But it's your thread! If you don't want that, let me know and I'll remove that info.
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Old 05-19-2022, 05:35 PM   #7
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Well Rich...if that solenoid is reading kOhms. I would say it’s failing or has failed with an open in the wire turns. You could remove one from the truck that works and see if it solves your issue. If it does, you can be certain that buying that component is likely the fix. Unless there are multiple issues in that same circuit.

The brown solenoid low on the side of the engine block is 2x - 10mm bolts and controls the vacuum to the Swirl Valve Control Solenoid Valve’s actuator. Those 2 bolts are ZERO fun to remove or install ! So be warned.

I believe those solenoids are made by Hitachi. OEM ones, that is. That is what’s on my truck. Hitachi is a solid electronic’s manufacturer. But so are some aftermarket brands. I just don’t know which ones.

Buy the solenoid, if it proves out to be the culprit. Buy one that offers a warranty of some sort.

The black solenoid on the right fender is for the EVAP System(fuel vapors). That is a detectable circuit that would cause a Check Engine Light to turn on from the ECU.
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Old 05-19-2022, 08:47 PM   #8
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jp2code - good call on adding that info, thanks!


--------


It was a pain to replace the vacuum hoses attached to that brown solenoid. Luckily, I don't think I'll have to change it since I think the problem has been resolved.



I'll summarize my woes and solutions here in case someone in the future stumbles on the same issue.


The Problem:

Truck runs fine until warmed up and then will still idle fine, but when the accelerator is pressed, the RPMs just bounces between 1000 and 1500 RPMs with no power. Had to limp the truck home by slowly releasing the clutch and relying on idle power. A few days later, it got worse by being difficult to start and would idle rough then die unless you give it throttle and then it would "catch" and idle fine but still had the same issue when you hit the accelerator. Then, it threw CEL codes U3FFF, P1130 and P0105. The problem now happens no matter what the engine temp is and is consistently there.

The Solution:

(1) Downloaded the FSM

(2) Found a cracked vacuum line going to that brown solenoid under the TB. Replaced all 5/32" ID vacuum lines. Problem still persisted.
(3) Tested the MAP sensor (also located near passenger fender - for the P0105 code) by hooking up a vacuum to the line and reading voltage at the sensor prongs. No change in voltage with increasing vacuum so I ordered a new NGK/NTK one (OEM is Hitatchi but $$$).
(4) Tested the swirl control solenoids and replaced that non-functional black solenoid by the passenger fender. Problem still persisted.
(5) MAP sensor arrived along with a new engine temperature sensor (2-prong, NGK/NTK brand as well; because someone else here said it solved their similar issue and the part was cheap). Temp sensor made it start first time, every time so it solved the hard starting issue. Replaced the MAP sensor and the rest of the problems solved! Truck now runs like a champ. Cleared codes but have only driven a few miles just now so I still need to wait to see if they'll come back.
(6) No idea what U3FFF was.
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Old 05-19-2022, 09:17 PM   #9
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It looks like U3FFF means there was an error between the communications devices.
Quote:
Originally Posted by source
The U3FFF code might also indicate a faulty scanner, or display simply because the type of scanner or app being used is unable to read the code. To accurately diagnose these codes requires a high quality automotive scan tool, and technician trained to use it.
https://liveworkdream.com/2019/03/27...ar-u3fff-code/
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Old 05-19-2022, 10:07 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jp2code View Post
It looks like U3FFF means there was an error between the communications devices.

https://liveworkdream.com/2019/03/27...ar-u3fff-code/
I wouldn't worry about it. U codes are something you see on newer stuff where all the modules are on a network. Even the newest HBs are barely new enough for a scanner to talk to the ECU. As long as your scanner can talk to the ECU you're good.
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