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Old 11-29-2021, 10:31 PM   #1
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Default Starting issue

So I just picked up a 94 d21 with the ka24. It ran fine for a few days and was doing well.
Then the other day when backing out of my driveway it started to stumble and died. Then wouldn't start. It turned over fine though.
Came back to it today and it started fine, idled kind of high (1.5k). It would stutter off and on with any throttle input but once warmed up was fine.
Turned it off and now wont start again.
looked around at the ignition and noticed the distributer only had one bolt holding it to the block. So it could be rotated. Put another bolt in it and tried several different angle to see if that would help and nothing.

I'm hoping its just an ignition/timing issue.

Any advice or direction would be greatly appreciated. Its supposed to be my daily so I'm getting desperate.

Thank you!

Also tried searching for something related but came up short handed so I'm very sorry if this is super common.
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Old 11-29-2021, 10:37 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HiddenSquid View Post
I'm hoping its just an ignition/timing issue.
Welcome to IN...

So, you'll need a timing light and you can DL the FSM at the link in my sig... v v v



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What he is saying is the aerodynamics of a D21 is a brick in the wind.
Probably at least as bad as a Jeep so worse than a cow.
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Old 11-30-2021, 12:58 AM   #3
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If the engine runs bad when cold but not when warm, you probably have a cracked vacuum hose.

When the hose is cold, air seeps in the cracks. When the engine warms up, the rubber hoses expand and seal the leak.

Try pulling the codes to see if the ECU can give you an idea of where the leak is.
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Old 11-30-2021, 03:46 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jp2code View Post
If the engine runs bad when cold but not when warm, you probably have a cracked vacuum hose.

When the hose is cold, air seeps in the cracks. When the engine warms up, the rubber hoses expand and seal the leak.

Try pulling the codes to see if the ECU can give you an idea of where the leak is.
This is very true. My best advice is to get a propane torch and crack the valve open on the nozzle but don't light the torch, hold the torch head over the intake area after you start the truck cold. If the idle goes up in a certain area, your vacuum leak has showed it's ugly face.
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Old 11-30-2021, 04:29 AM   #5
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If the OP thinks it’s a vacuum hose(s). He should change ALL of them...ONE. BY. ONE.

D21’s demand regular maintenance to run correctly and/or efficiently.
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Old 11-30-2021, 09:34 AM   #6
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That was good advice. Always change vacuum hoses one at a time. If you start pulling them all off, you WILL forget where they go properly. Ask me how I know this.

And when you change out these hoses, ditch those cheap factory clamps and buy yourself a boatload of shiny chrome modern hose clamps. Work better and always look nice. Buy your hoses right off the stock rolls at the parts store. Don't order OEM replacements unless you have two wallets and one of them is stuffed full of cash. To make sure you buy the right sizes, pull one at a time and compare it to the rolls of hose at the parts store. Then buy the length you need of that particular size, plus a bit extra just in case.

Pull cap and rotor and replace. Pull spark plug wires and plugs. REPLACE. If the wires look quality and new, okay...you can leave them. If you replace, don't buy a cheap set.

If your starter is a problem, do NOT buy ANY STARTER REBUILT IN CHINA. Never, nada, not happening, and negatory. Get a rebuilt Hitachi or something rebuilt in the USA. Make sure it comes with a new pigtail connection already attached.

Change out air filter. Change out fuel filter. Change the oil and put in a quart of HyPerLube FIRST...fill balance with stock oil. Manual says 4.5 quarts on the four banger engine. Screw that. Add the quart of HyPerLube and then four more quarts of regular oil. A half quart over the stick never hurt a thing. Trust me on this.

If you want to get totally crazy, after you dump the old oil out, pull your valve cover and do a new gasket. Then pull your oil pan and do the same. THEN add your new oil and filter. What is HyPerLube? See picture below. Most parts stores carry it. It works. Also a picture of the gasket sealer you should use on both gaskets. Old fashioned, but using it you will never get a leak thereafter in that spot. All of these things are the policy I used when I owned the truck you see in the picture. When I sold it, it had absolutely zero issues, 132K miles, and ran like new.





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Last edited by XoXSciFiGuy; 11-30-2021 at 09:49 AM.
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Old 11-30-2021, 11:51 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XoXSciFiGuy View Post
A half quart over the stick

Half a quart, probably no problem. But too high puts the crank in the oil, resulting in foaming, and wrapping the crank in a "rope."
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Old 12-01-2021, 12:24 PM   #8
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Sorry you are having those issues with it. My truck ALWAYS idles high 1.5k. I've read that it could be the throttle body gasket leaking air. Havent had the time to replace it yet to find out. I ALSO need to replace all my vacuum hoses.
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Old 12-03-2021, 12:09 AM   #9
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Those idle problems are more or less ongoing with the pre-1990 engines. I came to the idea that Nissan engineers were trying to meet excessive USA emissions standards and they had to try 'this or that' to get past the requirements. Late 80's tech stuff...

And...these same engineers never figured in their wildest dreams that people would still be driving these rigs with the original engines more than thirty years down the road. Any more than some Ford engineer designing a 1925 Model T would believe people would be driving that T daily...in 1955.

I swear if some aftermarket company started manufacturing BRAND NEW throttle body setups, complete with all the surrounding peripherals on them...and offering them for sale...they would make a killing.
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Old 12-03-2021, 12:57 AM   #10
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http://www.infamousnissan.com/forum/...ad.php?t=25332

The article was written by someone that had a 94 model with the 4 cylinder.
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