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Old 12-22-2021, 12:10 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by xokia View Post
When I say looks good means I checked them with a multimeter. I get +12V on the other side of the fusable link. Here is an image of what I am working with. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0
OK... you only said "it looks good", you didn't (previously) mention the use of a meter. Thanks for clarifing...


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What he is saying is the aerodynamics of a D21 is a brick in the wind.
Probably at least as bad as a Jeep so worse than a cow.
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Old 12-22-2021, 02:57 AM   #32
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Here is what I have deduced so far the old starter was bad. I pulled it an tried to activate the solenoid it was dead. The bad starter maybe stressed the inhibit circuit?

I can say that the wire that is marked GND in my photo goes to the positive terminal at the starter. Maybe I should number them instead. I still dont know what the Ground terminal on the starter does as it appears its not needed. You can test continuity between that ground wire and the starter case and there is 0 ohms. Unless that ground wire is fed back up through the truck as a chassis ground feeding some circuit. Seems like an awfully weird way to do it if so.

I know that I get +12 when the key is pressed to start on the inhibit relay under the hood. That inhibit relay however is not passing the +12V down to the starter. I should be able to bypass the entire inhibit circuit by just building a jumper wire to jump that relay with it removed.

Last edited by xokia; 12-22-2021 at 03:48 AM.
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Old 12-22-2021, 05:58 AM   #33
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So I figured out what was wrong with my old starter which I remember replacing about a year ago. Looks like someone stuck a 470 ohm resistor in series with the solenoid. I dont know why the resistor is there maybe to prevent arcing at the starter relay? Buts its obviously to small of a resistor.

mods feel free to edit the photo
https://photos.app.goo.gl/okajJoCtXJBxj9ve7
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Old 12-22-2021, 07:11 AM   #34
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I also think I found the problem with the new starter. The wires to the starter solenoid appear to be installed backwards.
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Old 12-24-2021, 04:46 AM   #35
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So got the truck started finally. I ordered a second "new" starter and that one also had the wires backwards. The Duralast "new" starter at autozone has things reversed. I ended up having to go to Oriely's and pick up a reman.

I'm going to guess that having those wires reversed took out the inhibit circuit somewhere. I had to bypass the inhibit relay and she fired right up. Maybe when I pull the motor and trans to do a rebuild I'll try to fix it but for now I will just leave the jumper wire in there.
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Old 12-24-2021, 04:52 AM   #36
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The 470ohm resistor will limit current. Not really what we want. It will not change it arcing as that's more of a voltage thing. Voltage is potential, current is flow.





Did you check the inhibit relay continuity? I bet the contacts are fried like I suggested a page or so ago. It happens to basically every relay but high voltage vacuum relays (which still get a little wear). A relay like that one is just a dumb relay. It doesn't care about polarity. I had one that gave up the ghost at the same time as a starter. Was a great time to find.
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Old 12-24-2021, 07:28 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deerhurst View Post
The 470ohm resistor will limit current. Not really what we want. It will not change it arcing as that's more of a voltage thing. Voltage is potential, current is flow.





Did you check the inhibit relay continuity? I bet the contacts are fried like I suggested a page or so ago. It happens to basically every relay but high voltage vacuum relays (which still get a little wear). A relay like that one is just a dumb relay. It doesn't care about polarity. I had one that gave up the ghost at the same time as a starter. Was a great time to find.
I get just ground on the coil side both terminals so its not activating. I should get +12V when its in park on one of the terminals. I also swapped it with the relay sitting next to it. No Bueno
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