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Old 05-31-2019, 08:45 PM   #1
RedPearl96
 
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Default Bucking, dragging on acceleration after heated up

Hi everyone. I have a 1996 hardbody, non-Calif., with about 280,000 miles on it. Not burning oil, thankfully. But, I'm tearing my hair out over this one. Thinking it may be related to the sticky thread FIX: erratic idle, low speed driveability, possibly more.
So, here's the issue, the best I can describe it.

After driving about 30-40 miles till it's good and heated up, with no issues, I get to my destination and shut 'er off. Do my business, get back in the truck, go out into city stop-and-go traffic. Within a few miles of this, sometimes less, I come to a stop light. Go to pull out, and the sucker just bucks, gasps and farts. Pull it over, shut it off, wait a few minutes, starts up and runs OK. I've also had it happen once on the highway in 5th gear at cruise speed, again after being run to the city, shut off and then run again.
I can usually drive it short distances without any problems, even in stop- and-go traffic. Right now I just run it to work and back 16 miles round trip.

There's a good general mechanic in town who racked his brains over this, and couldn't figure it out. He ran tests on all the sensors and replaced a few that seemed questionable. So far, we have installed a new crank position sensor, a new MAF, and an O2 sensor. Also new starter, ignition switch, all new belts, plugs and wires, tune up.
My questions are, does this year model still have the wiring issue from the above thread (see attached), and if so, would that be a likely cause of this problem?
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Old 06-01-2019, 02:12 AM   #2
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I think that issue had been resolved by 96 but I could be mistaken. Anytime there is trouble after the truck has warmed up I suspect coolant temp sensor or something of that nature. Any type of idle instability I think of vacuum leaks. Also, check the timing, it should be 10 before TDC. And check the computer for codes.
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Old 06-01-2019, 02:56 AM   #3
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Default Thanks, AL

I appreciate your reply. I have to double check my receipts, I may have already had that CTS replaced. If so, my bad for leaving it out of the post. I've wondered about the vacuum leaks also. I would hope that tech we took it to looked at that stuff, but you never know unless you're standing next to him or doing it yourself. At least I have some idea of what to tell the Japanese specialty shop when I get it to them.
I'll let everyone know what happens .
Thanks again!
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Old 06-05-2019, 01:54 AM   #4
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Default Update

I checked with my shop. The CTS was replaced back in January. I had O'Reilly's pull the codes. They are P0450 Pressure Sensor, P0446 Evap Emission System VCC, and P0171 Bank 1 System too lean. FWIW, it's also developed a surging idle after warmed up, which I suspect is related to the lean problem. Any ideas with this info? Don't have a timing light, so I'll have to have that checked by the specialty shop.
Just about ready to drive the damn thing into the pond and let the fish use it for an amusement park.

Thanks for any help!
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Old 06-05-2019, 12:01 PM   #5
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You can get a cheap timing light from harbor freight.

My dads 87 straight 6 ford truck was doing something like your problem this spring. Sometimes it would not even run after it got to operating temp. It had a bad distributor pickup coil. It was heating up and expanding, and that caused it not to fire the coil. I replaced the distributor (way easier than tearing the old one apart) and it hasn’t missed a beat since.

Now having said that, the older trucks prior to OBD2 used a “crank” sensor that was inside the distributor. The correct Nissan term is a wave plate. I do not know if the OBD2 compliant trucks had the same thing......my guess would be no. But anything is possible.
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Old 06-05-2019, 12:35 PM   #6
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Default Crank Position Sensor?

Thanks for the reply. Would that be the same thing as a crank position sensor? If so, I already had that replaced. I'm going to the shop that's just fixed my Toy Tercel. He's looked at this truck ,and said he was "perplexed and irritated". Now, granted, he's a Toy/Honda specialist. Gonna ask him if he wants to wrench on this thing anymore. If not, off it goes to a shop up in Tulsa. Got my fingers crossed.
Thanks again!
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Old 06-07-2019, 08:16 AM   #7
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The scan you listed certainly could be an issue, but I'm wondering if it's the wiring to the camshaft position sensor (distributor).

Mine would do exactly the same thing as yours, and I traced it to a nicked cable that had chafed through and was intermittently touched the reference wire. There are three wires in that cable: A telescoping shield that is grounded near the ECU side, a red (POS, position), a green (REF, reference).

I'd check the connector leading to the distributor (not the one ON the distributor) with a DMM, on the continuity setting. Connect one end of the meter to ground, and then check the red wire for continuity (hopefully you have a meter that beeps ). Move the engine harness a bit (bend/twist) all the way up to the firewall. Then, repeat for the green wire. You may even want to check if the green and red are shorted independent of the ground.

This was a factory defect that took me two hours to find, and a whole lot of re-taping. BTW, there were no stored or pending diag codes for this.

Then again, your problem could be a fuel pump/fuel delivery issue, MAF (non-Hitachi MAFs are notoriously bad...try disconnecting it and see how it runs), or a plugged catalytic converter.

Good luck!

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Old 06-07-2019, 10:44 AM   #8
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The wave plate was inside the early model distributors. Like I said above, I do not know if the newer ones used the same system to break the coil ground so it would fire. I bet it still had some sort of pickup inside, but I can not confirm that.
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Old 06-07-2019, 03:21 PM   #9
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Default Update

So, driving to the shop to pick up my Toy, the friggin' truck just choked up and died, overheated. The water pump failed. Had it towed to the shop. My tech got back to me yesterday; luckily the engine wasn't damaged. He's a great guy, willing to work on these oldies. And interestingly, he told me he's suspecting a problem with the distributor. I'm going to print this out and take it to him.
He did a great job on my 96 Toy Tercel. I bought it with 175,000 miles on it; it's got 260,000 on it now. He's got it running better than when I first bought it, so I'm pretty confident he'll get to bottom of the D21 issue.

Y'all are a great community, here. Really appreciate all the feedback, because I really want to keep this truck on the road. Here in OK, vehicles don't rust out because it's a fairly dry climate, so if you can fix it, you can literally keep it on the road forever.
Thanks everyone!
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