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Old 05-01-2021, 07:09 PM   #71
Hoseman1958
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I use magnets to hold the rotor at #1 cylinder as I put the pump back in.
I saw that in one of your videos! I've been occupied the past few days, but plan to redo the compression test in the next day or two to see If K's tip about putting some oil in # 2 cylinder generates any change in that cylinder. regardless of the outcome, I have another helper here for a few weeks and I will try to get on TDC compression stroke with the harmonic balancer as close to 2nd notch as possible. I will try to post pics of rotor position and harmonic balancer position relative to the pin on the timing cover if I am able to get clear shots. Thank you!
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Old 05-01-2021, 09:25 PM   #72
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I saw that in one of your videos! I've been occupied the past few days, but plan to redo the compression test in the next day or two to see If K's tip about putting some oil in # 2 cylinder generates any change in that cylinder. regardless of the outcome, I have another helper here for a few weeks and I will try to get on TDC compression stroke with the harmonic balancer as close to 2nd notch as possible. I will try to post pics of rotor position and harmonic balancer position relative to the pin on the timing cover if I am able to get clear shots. Thank you!
If the chain itself is installed correctly, it is very accurate to do the screwdriver in the number one spark plug hole trick. You can FEEL the piston coming up or going down, and you 'know' when you have reached the very top. When the piston begins to go back down when you are turning the Big Ass Wrench, you just go counter clockwise a hair to bring it back up. A little back and forth and its easy to tell when you are 'there'.
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Old 05-02-2021, 03:41 PM   #73
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I use magnets to hold the rotor at #1 cylinder as I put the pump back in.
This may be a dumb question, but am I supposed to have the oil pump removed when I set TDC on the compression stroke....and then try to insert the oil pump while the distributor is bolted down at least loosely? My girlfriend is here and she can hold the rotor in place while I poke the oil pump shaft up there.



What we have been doing until now is putting the oil pump shaft up in a way that conforms to the service manual orientation....then, attaching the distributor.


Rechecked the compression today and got 140 130 140 145. When I put oil in 2nd cylinder and rechecked, got close to 150.
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Old 05-02-2021, 04:08 PM   #74
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My girlfriend is here and she can hold the rotor in place while I poke the oil pump shaft up there.
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Old 05-02-2021, 04:25 PM   #75
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My girlfriend is here and she can hold the rotor in place while I poke the oil pump shaft up there.

Sounds like she's a keeper!!
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Old 05-02-2021, 07:38 PM   #76
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You will want the pump out before you set the engine to tdc.
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Old 05-02-2021, 09:02 PM   #77
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Originally Posted by Hoseman1958 View Post
This may be a dumb question, but am I supposed to have the oil pump removed when I set TDC on the compression stroke....and then try to insert the oil pump while the distributor is bolted down at least loosely? My girlfriend is here and she can hold the rotor in place while I poke the oil pump shaft up there.

What we have been doing until now is putting the oil pump shaft up in a way that conforms to the service manual orientation....then, attaching the distributor.

Rechecked the compression today and got 140 130 140 145. When I put oil in 2nd cylinder and rechecked, got close to 150.
Oil pump should go in first...and THEN the distributor on top. Reason is because once you have the oil pump in place properly, the shaft cannot move on you as long as you don't roll the truck while in gear. I guess you COULD do it backwards, but I haven't tried that. Remember....just one tooth off on the oil pump gear will toss the truck about 20 degrees out of time. If the gear has 16 teeth, (can't recall the exact number of teeth, but it is something like that) that puts off the timing at 22.5 degrees. Yeah...that engine will buck and rock and backfire even if it starts.

Compression check: Well, if you aren't tossing black smoke from oil burning, and you don't have black oil at the end of the exhaust pipe (black or grey powder with WATER is okay, that's normal. If powder is black, you are just running a bit rich) then you should be okay. I would recommend changing the oil and dumping a full quart of HyPerLube in first, and then filling up the rest with regular oil. And then do this on every oil change afterward. Picture of HyPerLube below. Been using it since the 1980's and it WORKS. If you want to get REALLY crazy about it, you could drop your pan, scrape and clean it out good, and then put it back up with a new gasket. This way any oil in the engine will be cleaning out that engine without picking up crap from the pan.


Oil change yesterday via Advance Auto. Even the employees asked me how I got that stuff so cheap. Ha. You gotta work their online purchasing system. And use your Speed Perk discounts. I got ten bucks in Speed Perk off that order, plus a 20% discount taken off BEFORE I added in the Speed Perk. A walk-in customer with this same order would pay $35 for all that. To top it off, I sent a photo of this receipt to the Rewards guys at Rislone. They send you a $3 Visa card rebate to boot. I use it at the gas station and then toss it away. I have had a few of those cards because I always use HyPerLube. That offer ends on Dec 31 though.

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Old 05-02-2021, 09:20 PM   #78
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Been using it since the 1980's and it WORKS.
Snake oil.

You change your oil at 2000 mile or less intervals.
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Old 05-02-2021, 09:31 PM   #79
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Snake oil.

You change your oil at 2000 mile or less intervals.
Yes, that's true on the oil change interval. HyPerLube isn't snake oil unless you mean snake oil is a good thing. It leaves a honey-like coating on all moving parts, and cuts start-up wear real good. Stays on there even after the truck sits for a few days, or even a month.

I can do this overkill oil change stuff because I only put maybe 7,000 a year on the truck anyway. So maybe four changes a year. It's good insurance. A well-lubed engine is a happy engine. I have the last year of truck made for D21, and yet that truck is almost 25 years old. I could drive it from Seattle to Miami tomorrow and have no doubt it would make it easily.
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Old 05-03-2021, 09:43 AM   #80
Hoseman1958
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You will want the pump out before you set the engine to tdc.
Dang, I hope that will be the "magic bullet!"
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