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Old 04-29-2016, 08:22 PM   #1
koukikillah
 
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Default First hardbody, setting pinion angle? And other noob questions

Hey guys, first time poster here. I just bought this truck off my boy a few weeks ago, it's been a project of his that he's gotten tired of, so I immediately jumped on it when it went up for sale.



So far I'm loving it, reminds me so much of my 240, but it's got some quirks I need to straighten out. A little about the truck: It's all stock, torsion bars cranked all the way in front, and blocks in the rear. As far as I'm aware, that's all it has done suspension wise. Frankly it rides like shit, bounces all over the place, scrapes on everything, and every time you let off the throttle it automatically swerves into the oncoming lane in an attempt to kill you.
Just my style.
At speeds above about 40 mph, the whole truck vibrates and you hear it resonating throughout the cab. You can tell it's from the drivetrain cause it's only when load is applied, once you left off the throttle or clutch in, the vibration stops. Getting underneath the truck, you can clearly tell that the pinion angle is off. The driveshaft comes from the transmission to the carrier bearing at a downward slope, then continues from the carrier bearing to the rear end at an upward slope. Sort of like a much less exaggerated " V "



This is cause of the lowering blocks, right? How do I correct this, while maintaing the same ride height? The simplest solution I can think of is to raise the carrier bearing by shimming it and getting longer bolts, but there doesn't seem to be much space and I'd have to go up like 2 inches...

Alternatively, I might be able to shim the rear end so it's at a slight upward angle. Would this fix the vibration? And how would I measure the amount of degrees it needs to be shimmed?

Also, another problem with the truck: It's got 2 leafs in each spring pack.



Is this safe? My buddy said he rocked it like this forever, but it looks sketchy as all hell to me. The last thing I wanna do is lose the rear end on the highway...

Finally, what can I do about the forward mounts for the leaf springs?


It's practically laying down on the floor. I can scrape off reflectors with it if I try. Which is cool, but annoying for any slightest bump in the road.

Any advice is appreciated. Thanks
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Old 04-29-2016, 09:07 PM   #2
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Stacking blocks is kind of iffy...Look for some angled blocks in the drop height you want. Or you can go with a block thats about 1 inch shorter and redrill those hangers (there is a template on here somewhere that will show you where to drill them at). This will give an additional inch of drop and allow you to cut off the mounting tab flush with the bottom of the frame rails.

You may still need to shim the carrier, but it wont be nearly as severe.
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Old 04-29-2016, 09:14 PM   #3
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First of all, awesome truck man, you got a hell of a start....

Now about your issues,

1. The driveshaft (carrier bearing) is giving you much issue because of the incorrect pinion, which you already called in. You need to raise the carrier bearing about an inch or a little more to straighten your driveline. To do so, loosen the bracket up, get you some longer bolts, and create spacers out of washers or something hardy enough to stay on and take the torque of tightening. They will fit between the cross member holding it and the bracket.

2. You are past the point of changing any angle to compensate for the shaft being in a bind, see #1.

3. Either its a one piece 6 inch block with a casting line or ya boy stacked two 2 inch or shit maybe two 3 inch blocks together. Something tells me that the lowness without the hanger redrill means its a 6 inch static drop with either a leaf removed or drop leaves. Its up to you what you want to do...see next point.

4. About maintaining the ride height, getting a better ride, and keeping away from the sketchy shit.....What I would do is get drop spindles for the front (which will improve front suspension travel and ride), research the leaf pack you have and find out if its a true drop leave system (like beltech sells) or if they are frakenleaves. Then you have to make a call if you want to pull them and replace with ACTUAL leaves meant for drop applications. Then ditch the stacked blocks and go with solid one piece (either 4 or I guess 6 inch if you want to maintain the height) and replace. Finally, you may opt to do a hanger redrill, whereas the front leaf bracket is redrilled about 2 inches north of where it currently is. Then you put you mounting bolt back in the hole with the leaf. Afterwards you can trim some of the excess mounting plate left over if you want (you might gain about an inch or slightly greater of clearance).

That's about it, good luck, but I will say getting low aint cheap for the most part. All of these topic have been discussed here on the forum extensively so take a look in the search box and look away.

BTW, Welcome in 2 IN.
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Old 04-30-2016, 05:57 PM   #4
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Thanks for the replies guys. I've been doing some homework on drop spindles for the front, looking at what most people suggest I would rather go with chassistech spindles but I can't seem to find any online. Are they still available? I just don't want to cut my tie rods if I don't have to.

Also like the idea of the hanger redrill, I'll take a look at doing that when I get the new drop leaves. Is it safe to use blocks on these drop leaves? 3" isn't enough for me.. lol

As far as the carrier bearing goes, I noticed I have a whole lot more room than I thought. I'll be sure to pass by the machine shop and see if they can make some solid spacers for me. One thing I noticed is the carrier bearing has a lot of play in it, probably doesn't help one bit for the vibration. Does the carrier bearing differ between factory automatic and standards? Advance has two different part numbers.

Thanks again
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Old 04-30-2016, 07:49 PM   #5
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not sure what you read to make you want to go with chassistech, but you should read some more.
same company as AIM, airbaggit, etc.
Horribly history of product and customer service.
I have had several HB and always used belltech spindles with ZERO issues, just need to trim the tie rod ends
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Old 04-30-2016, 08:34 PM   #6
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My last truck was dropped on 18's and tucked, rubbed and scraped.
I had cranked torsions and drop spindles on 4x4 shocks.
The rear was a 3 inch block, pulled middle leaf and clamped on each side, and cut bump stops, raised the carrier about 1/4" and I was doing 70 on interstate 65 miles a day and it road fine. I needed new shocks in the rear.

And bell tech is the way to go for drop spindles or go djm 3 inch drop arms for the lca. Just keep researching this forum. You will find lots of info.
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Old 05-02-2016, 03:05 PM   #7
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I have chassitech, however not installed yet. I run across a deal with a dude that bought them and never put them on.

And you're right, good luck finding anything on them....I'm stuck with making them work when the time comes, otherwise do yourself a favor and go with the beltech and be done with it.
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