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Old 02-28-2021, 03:38 PM   #11
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You are talking about the wheel bearing lock nut/lock ring, and the axle end play adjustment, right?
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Old 02-28-2021, 05:48 PM   #12
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Yeah, after it was all back in and on the hub. Couldn’t get it to seat the first couple of times.
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Old 03-01-2021, 01:37 AM   #13
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I replaced the other CV axle today but without doing the bearings and have the same problem again. I didn't get to fiddle with the other side yet as you suggested. Instead, I wanted to do the passenger side before the rains set in. I hoped to get my truck off the jack stands and back into it's parking spot, but I managed to bend the ball joint on the tie rod so that the nut won't go back on far enough.
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Old 03-01-2021, 06:35 PM   #14
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I recall there is supposed to be a special washer that goes on the CV stub before the bearing race. It has a chamfer on the inside on ONE SIDE. It is designed to cover the radius on the stub shaft and create a seat for the bearing.
If it is left out, or installed backwards you will have spacing problems.

I remember always having to save them off of my old CV axles whenever I got new ones.
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Old 03-02-2021, 01:27 AM   #15
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Yes, that washer is on the back of the knuckle and between the CV axle and the knuckle. I have mine with the chamfer away from the knuckle as it should be. Thank you for you help. Any other ideas?
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Old 03-02-2021, 02:15 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenmack View Post
Any other ideas?
Bigger hammer?


Actually, got a MIC? (micrometer)
Did you measure things?
How did they (old/new) measure up?
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What he is saying is the aerodynamics of a D21 is a brick in the wind.
Probably at least as bad as a Jeep so worse than a cow.
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Old 03-02-2021, 03:38 AM   #17
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I tried to call the maker at the number given in their Rockauto part information, but no one answered or called back.
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Old 03-02-2021, 06:20 PM   #18
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Can you hold pressure on the back side of the CV axle where it goes into the spindle while you attempt to put the clip on the front side? I have to do that with my Dana 44. Might require another pair of hands.
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Old 03-15-2021, 01:46 AM   #19
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I ordered the thinnest snap ring I could which is the 1.3 mm ring and it got into the groove. The replacement tie end is installed. I think my front drive is finished now. I then started to replace the tension rod bushings which were obviously degraded only to find the frame hole for the rod wallowed out and the rod worn through by about a third. Now I need a new tension rod. I took out the other side and found it in a similar state but not as bad. In fact, I could probably still use the rod. Still, I ordered replacements along with the washers that go against the frame. I'm now wondering if I need to do something about the enlarged hole in the frame. I'm talking about where the back end of the tension rod attaches to the frame with bushings, washers and a nut.
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Old 03-15-2021, 05:47 PM   #20
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The enlarged hole is fine because the rod just needs to float within it. The bushings center it. No need to repair that.


I welded up the grooves in my rods and smoothed them off. They worked fine. My reasoning was that if the partially severed rods worked fine, then welding back the missing material could only be better. I was right. Ran them for years before the SAS.
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