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Old 06-26-2021, 06:04 PM   #1
Jason Bourne
 
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Default AC not cooling (searching for wisdom)

My son recently purchased a 1993 single cab 2.4 truck that the AC was not working on so he took it to a shop for them to look at. They vacuumed out the old Freon, and added new Freon and die for a cost of $180. The AC lasted about 4 days. Obviously there is a leak.

He took it back and they looked with their UV light but said they could not see where any of the die had leaked out. Their suggestion was to replace the compressor, expansion valve, and dryer for a cost of $1800 dollars. This is shotgun troubleshooting to me, and my son canít afford $1800. I have never worked on AC stuff before but Iím ready to learn.

We did go out and get a UV light to look for ourselves. I looked at the compressor and all of the lines but didnít see any dye. We pulled the glovebox and blower resistor to look at the Evap coil and expansion valve. We didnít see any die but we couldnít really see all of the evap coil. I looked at the condenser coil but didnít see anything. I wasnít able to see all of the coil with the radiator and grill installed.

The truck was sitting for at least 5 yrs before he bought it.

What are some recommendations on where to start?

Iím thinking maybe all of the orings might be dried up and need replacing. I have read the orings need to be lubricated when replaced. Is there some type of special grease that you use?

I can get a loaner pump and gauges from the parts store. Is there a way to vacuum leak check the components like the evap coil and condenser coil separately? I would like to be able to verify a bad part rather than just guessing.

Any guidance that can be given would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 06-26-2021, 09:21 PM   #2
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question(s) did they put a dye in the system? you might want to add some dye yourself. when they sucked it down did it hold the vacuum before they added freon?? was it a reputable shop? I would be tempted to replace the o-rings and recharge it. thoughts anyway
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Old 06-27-2021, 12:20 AM   #3
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Changing all the orings, drier and expansion valve can be done in a couple of hours. I use clean motor oil to lube the orings.
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Old 06-27-2021, 12:42 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by cadillacdude1975 View Post
Changing all the orings, drier and expansion valve can be done in a couple of hours. I use clean motor oil to lube the orings.
Good steps.

Also, you can buy refrigerant with die and refrigerant with oil from Walmart. Load the system with the die solution, run it until it's not cold, look for and repair the leaks, then refill it with the oil solution.
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Old 06-27-2021, 01:13 AM   #5
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I recently replaced the expansion valve and dryer. Was a pretty easy job. I second everyone else in saying to add some dye. I had a leak on the front evaporator oring. I just filled mine with over the counter cans of 12a (can’t get 134a in Canada)

You could also replace all the orings as other mentions.

Losing refrigerant isn’t a valid reason to replace the whole compressor… seems expensive for no reason.

Also here’s a great vid that’s vehicle specific: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=jGkOGv7KPAk
I don’t have a the fancy vacuum but it’s VERY informative
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Old 06-27-2021, 02:32 AM   #6
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Thanks for all the responses. The shop did add the die. When I look through the sight glass on the drier it looks bright yellow. I heard good things about the shop which is why my son went there, but I’m not too sure about them now.

I went down to autozone and picked up some rental gauges. Below is what I found.

When I put the gauges on with the car turned off the static pressure on both the high and low side read 110 psi. The outside temp was 90 with 62 percent humidity. From what I have read this seems a bit high, which would lead me to believe it has too much Freon. But the AC was working for 4 days, so I assumed Freon leak is why it stopped?

When I turned on the AC, the low side pressure went down to -10 PSI and the high side only went up to 125 PSI. From what I read this means the expansion valve is bad?

What I don’t understand is how it was working for 4 days? What does everyone else think? If there is a leak why are my static pressures so high? If it is not a leak why would it have stopped working?
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Old 06-27-2021, 03:53 AM   #7
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Did you guys pay to have the AC serviced and in working order? If so, I'd take it back and tell them to fix their work.
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Old 06-27-2021, 10:00 AM   #8
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When AC systems are not run for an extended time, the seals get brittle. The answer to that is to turn on your AC once in a while, even if only for a minute or so in the winter, to keep those seals lubed. Otherwise they can dry up.

This is what may have happened. If so, the components are good, but one or more seals are leaking. The fact that it worked after a recharge, at least for a few days, may prove that.
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Old 06-27-2021, 06:40 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YEPEE View Post
When they sucked it down did it hold the vacuum before they added freon??
This is the question I'd ask the shop that did the work. If there's a leak, they should have found it when they evacuated the system.

The AC recently went out in my 1995 Ford F150. I called the local AC parts/supply house and asked them if they could give me a referral on what local shop to use. They did and the shop replaced the compressor, condensor, orifice tube and the dryer and so far everything is working as it should. $1,800 is way to high.

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Old 06-27-2021, 06:43 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XoXSciFiGuy View Post
When AC systems are not run for an extended time, the seals get brittle. The answer to that is to turn on your AC once in a while, even if only for a minute or so in the winter, to keep those seals lubed. Otherwise they can dry up.
I've heard of this also and try to run my AC during the offseason when I can remember.

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