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Old 01-23-2021, 03:16 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by rbourgeo View Post
I need some sort of threadlocker that is conductive.
Ummmmmm, I know of it as "solder".


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Old 01-23-2021, 11:15 PM   #42
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Not really practical to solder. It really just needs a thread lock to stop the screws backing out.
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Old 01-24-2021, 12:33 AM   #43
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If you want permanent lock-down, JB Weld? ...or the SO's nail polish. I use this as a light weight Locktite substitute.

I don't know where this is. Next time it's out, can you take PICs of this area? ...or if you have another way.
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Old 01-24-2021, 02:20 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by 89'HBV6 View Post
If you want permanent lock-down, JB Weld? ...or the SO's nail polish. I use this as a light weight Locktite substitute.

I don't know where this is. Next time it's out, can you take PICs of this area? ...or if you have another way.



Its gotta conduct electricity, so can't be either of those. I've got some conductive adhesive coming.



Yes- can do. You probably have no idea what I'm talking about since you have a 89. Mine has the electric speedometer. So at the back they have these screws that form a connection with the printed circuit, but they keep slightly backing out as i go over bumps, so my speedometer randomly looses connection. Every month i have to go in an give them a quarter turn. So now i want to put some of the conductive adhesive on the threads (would be difficult to clean the threads if connection was lost) to keep them from backing out. I'll also add some to where it meets the printed circut. I suppose this part could be soldered? Any idea if it would melt the think transparent plastic that the circuit is printed on?


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Old 01-24-2021, 02:57 AM   #45
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Welllll....I have no idear. But, this may have some relevance. I used to have a Mazda MPV w/a 3.0 V6. On the Mazda forum, there were tons of identical questions to yours.

They would change the lifters and look for clogged passages (duh) and flush the snot out of the motor.

Oil, it was recommeded to use Castrol or Quakerstate....don't remember what I used, but it didn't work....for me, for a bunch of others, yes. I did swap in some used lifters, and they worked, sorta.

put a louder muffler on it, and it will fix it right up...other than that, the above applies.
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Old 01-24-2021, 03:07 AM   #46
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Very unusual that the screws make a connection for the circuit board in an application like that. Sometimes they use them for a ground but that's very rarely in a dirty application like a vehicle.



Have you just tried some copper antiseize? The copper content should keep it conductive. Otherwise I would solder to the board to make a remote ground and locktite the screws. That's just me and I work with electronics every day (and design some) and have no qualms about modifying some things.
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Old 01-24-2021, 03:33 PM   #47
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Seems a bit quieter now. Lifter tick comes and goes. Definitely need to get into the oil pan.

Deerhurst: I hadn't, but thats a good idea. I already got a tube of this coming that i think should work. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I don't have much experience soldering. Can you solder to that thing plastic sheet that the circuit is printed on? I'd be worried about it melting.


Either way, i think its best to use the conductive threadlock on the screws just in case.
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Old 01-24-2021, 03:45 PM   #48
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Cannot solder to the plastic but can solder to the trace. Heat control would be important.
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Old 01-24-2021, 09:04 PM   #49
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Got it, thanks man. Yea, totally different.

RE: the screws that keep backing out... I would wonder if what the screws are going into (plastic?) isn't stripped out. (?)
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Old 01-24-2021, 11:07 PM   #50
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I don't think its plastic, because they must be forming a connection as they contact the printed circuit. I'll get a camera in there next time.


Not stripped. They definitely get tight and I make pretty damn sure i don't overdue it and strip them.
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