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Old 11-13-2020, 11:02 AM   #11
nunya
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Since it won't cost anything to try my idea, before you try to start, turn on your headlights for 15 seconds or so. When I lived in cold country, sometimes we did this to "wake up" the battery. I know this seems counter-intuitive, just try it. Then again, "Whadda I Know?"
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Old 11-13-2020, 12:27 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Deerhurst View Post
Interlock switch is on the dash, the one that lets you bypass the clutch pedal and it's relay is under the hood. Should be near the clutch relay.
I read about that elsewhere, but do not have one on my truck. Maybe it was only on the SE? Does it allow you to start your truck without hitting the clutch? Looks like it is down to just the pedal switch now.
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Old 11-14-2020, 12:03 AM   #13
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My peddle switch started acting up to the point where I had to slam the peddle down to start. Switched out the unit and all is good now.
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Old 11-14-2020, 01:56 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by 89'HBV6 View Post
My peddle switch started acting up to the point where I had to slam the peddle down to start. Switched out the unit and all is good now.
I looked at the switch today. It is in like new condition. Was hard to get to the plug so I ended up unbolting the stamped steel bracket it is attached to from the firewall. Was able to slide two mini screwdrivers in and pop open the switch. Pretty simple inside (one spring and a plunger that pushes two sets of contacts (one circuit) apart and breaks the connection. Very clean inside and everything working fine. Also this morning when it would not start I just held the pedal down with the key in start position until it started. So i basically sat there for 30 seconds or so completely still and all I could hear were the relays on the passenger fender-well clicking on and off. then boom, fired up like a brand new truck. I think if it were a switch it would act like you describe slamming it around until it makes or breaks connection. This seems like the current is warming something up until it finally makes connection.
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Old 11-14-2020, 02:01 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nunya View Post
Since it won't cost anything to try my idea, before you try to start, turn on your headlights for 15 seconds or so. When I lived in cold country, sometimes we did this to "wake up" the battery. I know this seems counter-intuitive, just try it. Then again, "Whadda I Know?"
Thanks Nunya, I tried turning on the lights this morning and I gotta say it definitively felt counter intuitive, haha. Every idea helps though - one step closer to finding the problem, and you may be onto something there. While it is probably not the headlights warming up the battery it does seem like something in the system needs warmed up by the current. This morning I just held the key in the start position and waited there like a dummy for 30+ seconds. Then it suddenly jumped to life.
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Old 11-14-2020, 02:48 AM   #16
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Haha, stick wit' me kid, we'll go places. Some batteries act funny at colder temps. I was not saying that the headlights actually warm the battery, using current gets the ions in the battery flowing in the proper direction. I would not hold the key in the start position for any amount of time , if it is not cranking. If you still think there is a prob, Bob, throw a different battery in there. I would just give it that half a mo' to wake it up, until the weather warms up or until it is time to get a new battery. Little idiosyncracies like this might keep someone from stealing your truck.

Last edited by nunya; 11-14-2020 at 02:54 AM. Reason: afterthought
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Old 11-14-2020, 03:25 AM   #17
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My truck has an intermittent issue like this. 9 out of 10 times it starts normally. Then it wont. Everything checked and tested good. I ran a 12v wire to the solenoid trigger then to a switch on my instrument panel.
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Old 11-14-2020, 03:54 AM   #18
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My issue like that was the starter relay. Temp wasn't a factor but it eventually went to not working at all.
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Old 11-15-2020, 12:41 AM   #19
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Ok, so I made an edited version of the starting system wiring diagram to simplify things. The FSM image was hurting my brain with all the extra info (realized it has a key in the bottom left with letters for canadian models and the pathfinder {wagon}). Let me know if it looks like i photoshopped out anything important, but I am relatively certain this layout would start the truck.

Looking at the diagram, I really only see two remaining points of failure after checking out the clutch pedal switch: ignition switch position 4 contact and the starter (clutch inhibit) relay.

I switched the AC relay with the clutch relay a couple days ago and it did not change the no crank situation. Today i went ahead and replaced the starter relay anyway and will see if it starts when it is cold in the morning. Is it possible that both of the factory relays I swapped around were malfunctioning in exactly the same way?
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Old 11-15-2020, 01:44 AM   #20
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It's possible. I had a starter fail at the same time as the main starter relay.
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