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Old 09-23-2021, 04:59 AM   #1
Kikepinell
 
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Default D21 hardbody VG30 sputtering, rough idle, just going bad!

Hi to all! Iím new in posting on this forum, but already know this page since I bought my 91 D21 Hardbody pickup truck. VG30 SE 4x4 manual trans..

I have a problem thatís is a combination of problems I guess, so I hope some of you guys can help me out

First part of the problem, the really slow engine start.
I have to crank the key 3-4 times so the truck goes on.. and I have to press the gas pedal like a lot for it to fire.. then I have to hold the gas pedal for a couple of minutes so the really bad idle gets in a point that wonít shuts. But itís just no a nice and smooth idle, it shakes a lot.. this happens in cold and hot weather.

Second part of the problem, while driving..
So I have a really bad idle going and when I pres the gas pedal it sound like it drowning, I have to press 2 o 3 times the pedal so the revs can go up.. if I just press the pedal and try to push it, the revs go down and itís feels like itís going to die, so I press it a couple of time until I hear the revs going up as itís supposed and the continue.. this happens 70% of the driving times.. when I stop in a red light, the bad idle stays in place.. the other 30% of the time the truck feels completely different, feels better, the acceleration response is way better. If I press the pedal really hard, the truck takes off.. thatís the part of the problem thatís confusing me, But even then the idle stays rough and shakes a bit.

The last part of the problems happens today on my way homeÖ

The truck just keep shutting down.. it start, goes for a couple of minutes and then the revs go down, I try to keep the engine running by pressing the gas pedal a lot but still dies.. have to start it again (really difficult to start as I said at the beginning, 2 times at least and pressing the gas pedal a lot of times) drive another minute and the same happens. After a lot stops I start the engine, kept the gas pedal in for a while and I notice the revs went from 3000 to 2500 back and forth whilst i hold it.

Really sorry for the long post.. I try to explain the best way possible so you guys can help me out..

Any ideas, any solutions, any comments I will really appreciate

Thanks in advance..

Best,
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Old 09-23-2021, 07:26 AM   #2
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First of all, has maintenance been done? Check the timing, plugs, distributor and rotor, vacuum lines, MAF and TPS connectors for corrosion. You need to remove the passenger seat and check the ECM for any stored trouble codes and we can go from there.
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Old 09-23-2021, 10:38 AM   #3
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Checklist Suggestion:

Replace your fuel filter if it hasn't been done in a while. But disconnect battery first and do it when the engine is cold. Have something ready to catch the fuel because fuel pressure on these trucks is around 40-45 pounds, which is higher than the air in your tires.

When was the last time this truck had a complete tune up and an oil change? If you don't know, then it's probably time to do it. Spark plugs, spark plug wires, air filter, cap and rotor.

Do those things and see how it runs then.
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Old 09-23-2021, 01:08 PM   #4
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Thanks for the reply guys,

Well, fuel and air filter are new. I change those thing and the engine oil a couple of weeks.

When I bought it, the guy told me he had change timing belt, distributor cap, plugs wires and put new plugs on it.. those seems to be ok and actually looks like newÖ I will re-check those thing more carefully to see if there is anything bad. Also he did some cleaning for the injectors. But this is what he said, I have no record for that, except that he is a good friend of mine and I trust him. Also as I said, everything he said he changes looks new. (That was a couple of months ago but the truck was parked all the time until recently. Didnít have plates and permissions until past week.)

I havenít check the ECU error codes. I will do that today for sure and I will get back with that info..
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Old 09-23-2021, 06:55 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kikepinell View Post
When I bought it, the guy told me he had change timing belt, distributor cap, plugs wires and put new plugs on it.. those seems to be ok and actually looks like new… I will re-check those thing more carefully to see if there is anything bad. Also he did some cleaning for the injectors. But this is what he said, I have no record for that, except that he is a good friend of mine and I trust him. Also as I said, everything he said he changes looks new. (That was a couple of months ago but the truck was parked all the time until recently. Didn’t have plates and permissions until past week.)

I haven’t check the ECU error codes. I will do that today for sure and I will get back with that info..
Please do let us know about codes. Very important.

Note what I bolded above and please recheck that timing belt and distributor cap. I hope that this is all still good and a tooth was not missed/jumped somewhere. Please double/TRIPLE check that work before much more... the smallest detail can really matter.


Also, pull your plugs and let us know what they look like. I suspect you could have some nasty plugs at this point. But, this will also tell you about what is happening within the cyl.

Check this thread to understand how to read your plugs...
http://www.infamousnissan.com/forum/...ad.php?t=45561
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What he is saying is the aerodynamics of a D21 is a brick in the wind.
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Last edited by 89'HBV6; 09-24-2021 at 12:49 AM.
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Old 09-23-2021, 01:18 PM   #6
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Pull codes first. Itl tell you what it thinks is wrong. Then fuel pressure.



Make sure you use NGK plugs and wires. These trucks are not really a fan of other stuff.
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Old 09-23-2021, 02:28 PM   #7
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A bad ignition coil would cause my truck to sputter…. But didn’t throw any codes.

Check the continuity of spark plug wires

Agree with everyone, no point doing anything until you check codes or you’re just blindly chucking money at it
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Old 09-24-2021, 12:11 AM   #8
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If you didn't have any codes, I'm turning to the recent timing belt job.

Did the truck run tip-top after the timing belt was swapped? It is common for people to get the belt a tooth or more off, which throws the ignition timing all out.

Sadly, the only way I know of to be sure is to take the timing belt covers off (pain in the ass) and count the teeth between the sprocket marks.
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Old 09-24-2021, 03:34 AM   #9
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Well I check a few things and I found out something.. not quite sure if it something good or bad..

First I check for any error code, follow the process and get a 55 on it.. which means “no malfunction found”. Well, that would be great in another situation.

Then I start checking all the plugs wires, the distributor cap… the connectors for like every thing and all seems to be just fine.. didn’t check for vacuum leaks because I don’t really know how to do that..

I get the MAF sensor out and clean it up and fire the truck up, and sorpresa! It start just different, idle when all the way to 1400rpms and stays there but in a nice way (in comparison how it was running yesterday) if I press the gas pedal, rpms go up quickly and it just feel better.. still a bit rough but you know, it just was way better… I go to the engine bay to check on the engine from there and, another sorpresa! I didn’t plug the MAF sensor ����*♂️
The truck was running without the MAF sensor plug it in. I didn’t know that was possible , I thought that the engine won’t run without that sensor.. I plug it in and the idle when down immediately and start sputtering really bad and dies.. (for the record, it’s a cold rainy night)
Unplugged the sensor and crank the key once and the truck fire up again, better response to gas , rpms again over 1400. What that supposed to mean? Is the MAF sensor bad? the smoke coming out the exhaust pipe what smells bad, I guess like no burned fuel..

Anyway, I toke it for a ride just for fun… I went to the super market, and the truck was running great, with great power, gas response immediately, up in a really steep hill whiteout any problem. Again, cold weather, didn’t get to the “working temp”. Stoped in the supermarket, went in, buy a beer (cause, what else right?) go back to the truck, crank the key a bit longer that the first go, start the truck, drive a bit and then, SORPESA! when I try to gas really hard and take off, the car drowned and almost dies.. take the foot out the gas pedal, the truck remains on the high idle (as I said before, around 1400rpm) but don’t dies.
Try to take off again and the same happens. So I shut the truck down, start it up one more time and I finally can drive it again, but a bit slow, if I press the gas pedal feels like it’s going to die, if a push it, rpms won’t go up over 3200rpms, does like a cut and won’t go any further.

Sorry for always getting a long post but I just trying to “explain” myself of what tf is happening.

The thing that really get me confused is why sometimes the truck runs so great and in another “starting cycle” runs like crap and gives me this problems.. the MAF Sensor situation?? The timing would be an intermittent problem like this??

A really appreciate all your comments!!

Cheers ��
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Old 09-24-2021, 03:45 AM   #10
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If it ran fine with the MAF unplugged that's usually a very good indicator of a bad MAF if it runs like crap with it plugged in.



It'll run without the MAF and just goes to dumb mode. No longer takes the air into account, just adds fuel blindly.



You pissed it off by trying to drive it hard without the MAF plugged in. It probably shows a MAF code now in the ECM and it went into limp mode.



What I would do is replace the MAF. Disconnect the battery for a half hour or something while replacing the MAF. That will prevent you from shocking something as the connectors are connected and disconnected and it will reset the ECM.


What color smoke from the exhaust? Black is fuel. White is coolant. Grey, I think, is oil.



I'd guess you had black? With the MAF unplugged it went to dumb mode.
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