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Old 02-10-2016, 03:26 AM   #1
yitzac1990
 
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Default Another SR20DET swap!

Hey all, I am swapping my fully built SR20 redtop into my 1993 HB and decided to make a thread with some pics and info on how I did it. I mainly wanted to do this because I could not for the life of me find any information on wiring, so I basically just got out the FSM, wiring diagrams, and DMM, and jumped in head first. I have experience with custom wiring (re-wired my entire 240sx drift car myself), so I figured it wouldn't be too bad.

Unfortunately, I usually dont have the patience (or clean hands) to stop what im doing in the middle of thigns to take pics, but I have/will have pics of finished items, like wiring, engine stuff, trans stuff, etc.

Hope you enjoy, and hope this can help someone out a little!

Some specs on the engine swap:

Bottom end:
Block was bored to 87mm, decked, honed with a deck plate on (included with sale), hot tanked, and rings gapped
King main bearings, ACL Race rod bearings, Clevite thrust washers
Polished crank
Eagle forged steel rods
Wiseco 87mm forged piston kit
ARP main studs

Top end:
BC racing springs, SS valves, TI retainers
Tomei solid head setup (solid lifters, new shims, 270 cams, properly machined rockers)
Isis RAS
Tomei 1.2mm HG
ARP head studs

Engine Accessories:
Circuit Sports oversized steel oil pan
Circuit Sports oil filter relocation kit
Nissan Quest alternator swap
Five-O (I think?) 740cc injectors
Isis water pump
No IACV (just have to give it some gas for a little bit on cold starts, but I can include the IACV with sale)
JDM HICAS power steering pump (rear fins removed, rear port blocked off)
JDM HICAS power steering reservoir (double the fluid amount of stock 240sx)
Power steering cooler
Custom high pressure steering line
Garrett GT2871R turbo
Tubular exhaust manifold
Isis O2 housing
Isis water neck (turbo water return goes to neck, instead of behind engine)
Circuit Sports SS braided turbo lines and AN fittings
LS truck coil packs (built in heat sinks, and made it plug-n-play so you can easily swap back to SR coil packs if needed)
New timing components (chain, both guides and hardware, crank sprocket, Mazworx adjustable tensioner)

Electronics:
Nistune tuned #62 ECU (will include software and consult cable with sale)
AEM TruBoost boost gauge/controller
PLX Devices AFR gauge (use this narrowband output for the ECUs O2 input)
Autometer Sport Comp fuel pressure gauge
Perfect condition engine harness

Drive line:
Z32 transmission (300ZX TT)
Mazworx Z32 trans adapter kit (driveshaft and shifter are also included, not pictured)
ACT lightweight flywheel
ARP flywheel bolts
ACT stage 3 clutch (6 puck unsprung)

Other:
Intercooler and piping
AMSoil intake filter
Z32 MAF
Greddy style blow off valve
Mishimoto SR radiator (only a few months old)
3" downpipe and full 3" straight pipe exhaust system
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Old 02-10-2016, 03:29 AM   #2
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SO far, I have basically removed the old KA, completed the wiring for the SR ECU, shortened my transmission shifter bracket, and generally cleaned up the engine bay area a bit. Here is my SR/trans as it sits on a custom engine cart I built. You can also see some wiring on the side. This is basically the stock transmission/sub-harness cut up and only using what is needed (reverse switch, starter relay wire, alternator power and signal wires. The yellow wire coming off the alternator plug will just need to be hooked up to 12v IGN once installed. This is basically the wire that tells the alternator to turn on.

P.S. - this is the quest alternator, and the KA alternator plug works just fine



Here is my modified Mazworx shifter bracket, and shortened shift lever:



This is the trucks engine bay as it sits tonight. You can see the SR harness falling into the bay (black loom turning to red loom):



Below is where the harness comes through the firewall, just like stock. In order to eliminate the KA harness, I was unable to just take it out fully intact. What I had to do was cut the KA engine harness in the engine bay side of the firewall, and throw it off to the side. Then I had to cut all the wires off the ECU connector. Between these 2 cuts, a lot of wires simply are able to be removed. However, there are a lot of wires that snake into the main dash/body harness, so what I did with the "leftover" engine harness wires was run them along the inside of the firewall, behind the HVAC equipment, and tuck the wires under the center of the HVAC unit, out of the way. The car harness for a KA basically just unplugs from the dash harness, which is awesome, but not the case with the truck harness.

After I cut out and sorted what I could, I had 3 cut wires that came out of the fuse/relay box. one was the white/red ground wire for the fuel pump relay, one was the blue/??? wire for the ECU (Main) relay, and the last was the thicker black/white wire that powers the ECU. the white/red and blue/??? wires I just twisted together and spliced to a ground wire. The black/white wire for ECU power is actually constant 12v, and I preferred an IGN source for my ECU power. if you open up the fuse/relay box to see all the wires, you will see there are 2 thicker white wires going to the ECU relay, which both have constant 12v, and the black/white wire used for ECU power. Find which white wire corresponds to the 12v signal pin on the relay (either pin 1 or 2, I forget), and cut it a few inches from the relay connector. splice this into a 12v IGN wire, and done. I used the fuel pumps 12v IGN wire. Now, the ECU and fuel pump only get power with the IGN on.

You can see the thick black loomed harness coming out of the firewall, that is the SR engine harness.



This shows the 2 SR harness power plugs (just above battery tray). These would normally plug into the chassis harness of a 240sx, however I cut off the chassis plugs from my old car, and wired them so you only need to attach it to 12v source to power the ECU. You can also see I am still using the stock clutch starter relay, battery plugs, etc. I did this, because honestly i wanted to leave the truck as stock as possible, and keep everything working as it should. This truck will be a daily.



Last picture for today is the driver side wiring. I basically unwrapped the old tape and plastic sheathing from the wiring, put new electrical tape on, and ran the unused wires behind the washer reservoir and just left them there. Also installed my braided clutch line, and removed the stock clutch line fully.



Up next is putting the engine/trans in and making a custom trans mount! I am also awaiting arrival of my FPR, fittings, and Walbro 255 in-tank pump.

Last edited by yitzac1990; 02-10-2016 at 03:57 AM.
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Old 02-10-2016, 05:11 AM   #3
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sweet, what kind of HP does a stock red top sr make?
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Old 02-10-2016, 01:07 PM   #4
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stock from the factory, I think they actually only made about 168 hp. but my last setup similar to this one made 350 on the dyno, and would have made more but then the HG blew so this is a fresh rebuild, and gonna keep it "safe" this time on maybe 15 psi, instead of 19.
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Old 02-10-2016, 11:59 PM   #5
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This is so cool, literally one of my dream builds. Stoked to hear more!
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Old 02-11-2016, 06:06 AM   #6
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bullet proof the bottom end, forged everything and you could run 19 no problem..how big of a pain in the ass was the wiring harness matching it with the sr's?
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Old 02-12-2016, 02:57 PM   #7
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Yesterday I installed my Walbro 255 in-tank pump. Let me tell you, having a lift really comes in handy!



I know I could easily run 19+ psi, but id rather keep it safe and conservative in a daily. I was running 19 psi on basically the same motor except with 90mm pistons and sleeves, but blew the crappy gasket. my fault for going with Cometic, but, that last build was a long story that I dont really want to go into. this is a new block, no sleeves, Tomei HG, and 87mm pistons.

As far as the wiring of the ECU goes, it was easy putting the SR harness/ECU in. The hardest part was getting rid of the stock KA ecu/harness. When i had the SR in my racecar, i basically made the harness able to be standalone. that is, there was just a single wire that needed to "interface" with the car, which was a 12v IGN wire to power the ECU. just a simple one wire hookup (besides all my gauges and crap). so once I got the KA ecu/harness out and buttoned up, i ran the SR harness separately (as you can see in pics), and have it running off the OEM ECU relay under the hood (as I described above).

im not using the speedo in the truck, and I ordered an aftermarket tachometer. fuel level gauge still works fine, and for the water temperature sensor, I went to the back of the cluster, found which wire was the oem water temp signal wire (yellow/red or yellow/green, I cant remember...im also partially color blind), and spliced in another wire, which will run to the water temp sender in the sr harness.

The good thing about replacing an old nissan motor (KA) with another old nissan motor (SR), a lot of small parts interchange. the dash water temp sender on the motor is the same, so the temp gauge in the truck cluster should work fine.

I really need to try and take more pics of all the work, i just get so into it and dont like to take breaks haha. and also i play music off my phone on my garage stereo and dont like turning it off lol
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Old 02-12-2016, 04:14 PM   #8
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Cool build - keep the updates coming.

I am in the middle of separating the body and engine harness for my SBC swap - total PITA
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Old 02-13-2016, 04:51 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by estetic View Post
Cool build - keep the updates coming.

I am in the middle of separating the body and engine harness for my SBC swap - total PITA
back when my 240sx was stock, i wanted to thin out the harnesses as much as I could. and you're right, sooo much work. for this, i just coiled up the extra wires and hid them. this saved a bunch of time and headache...
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Old 02-13-2016, 05:08 AM   #10
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well, i got a TON of work done today! Basically all the wiring is done, installed all my gauges as well as an aftermarket tachometer too. I also got the SR in! stubborn bitch, but, its in....

This picture shows my power harness for all my gauges. the white thing in the upper left is a "distribution block" for my positive and negative wires. upper middle is a relay to run all the gauges. and then there is a main 12v wire and a main ground wire.



Here you can see where I mounted all my gauges. I really like it!



This shows how I mounted the metal plate to the dash piece.



Here is all the gauge wiring. that somewhat rusty piece of flat metal is the backside to my PLX Devices interface control box.



This is where I ran my wires for the electronic boost controller and O2 sensor. Drilled a 7/8" hole through the firewall, cut out the foam/plastic on the interior of the firewall, and put some split loom there to protect against the sharp metal.



This is where I mounted my ECU. obviously not the most ideal, but I didnt feel like extending every single wire on the ECU harness to make it reach under the seat. it'll do, and its easy to get to.



Onto the fun stuff....I had read a lot of info about people having to beat their firewall in, make custom trans mounts, etc etc.....well instead of doing all that, i took the stock mounts and moved them about 2.25" forward. This is the driver side:



The passenger side was a somewhat different story. When I initially dropped the motor in, i found the alternator was hitting the frame. so out came the engine and I had to beat the frame in a bit. This picture is the first attempt. once I dropped the engine in again, it had maybe a couple millimeters of clearance. considering I am using the rubber mounts and it will rock side to side, I wanted more clearance, so I had to open it up even more. That picture will follow. remember from my first post, this is the Quest alternator. Stock alternator may have more clearance??





After going in and out about 4 times, its finally in! very snug fit. but the best part is:

I did not have to beat in my firewall! I was also able to use the stock transmission crossmember and stock mount and mounting points!

However, the engine does sit at a pretty steep angle...



This picture shows the stock crossmember in the stock location. mind you, this is a Z32 trans, not a KA trans!

Tomorrow im getting new tires for my chevy wheels I picked up, and then its onto buttoning up the engine bay - hooking up fuel lines (still waiting for FPR though), hooking up the engine harness, cranking it to make sure it turns over, etc. cant wait!
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