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Old 09-23-2022, 02:00 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by USCGamecocks20 View Post
May try the hyper-lube before replacing seals, since itís cheap, and it hopefully doesnít eat the paint from the oil pan haha. I tried a ring sealer, but I donít think itís my rings, as my compression barely changes with a wet compression test.

That ďforteĒ sealer is a rubber rejuvenator, which would make sense to work, but you canít buy it here. That AT-205 was the most similar/high-strength product, but Iím not risking the oil pump on it.
The "Smoke Fix" is some really thick stuff. Think "molasses in the winter" thick. Good stuff...

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What he is saying is the aerodynamics of a D21 is a brick in the wind.
Probably at least as bad as a Jeep so worse than a cow.
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Old 09-23-2022, 02:40 AM   #12
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That was exactly the consistency of the reslone ring seal I used. I also switched to 10W-40 as well, but still produced smoke under the same condition, so Iíve narrowed it down to the valve stem seals (I think) after ruling out a coolant leak.

The only thing I should ideally test is the oil pressure, but Iíd think Iíd be burning more oil and almost all the time if there was a leak (and hopefully the oil pressure light would turn on), so Iím definitely thinking valve seals. If I can ďrestoreĒ the rubber seals, which seems possible if theyíre not completely destroyed with a rubber rejuvenator (thatís proven chemistry we can restore rubber), Iíd prefer to do that. Will probably try an additive or two that doesnít eat paint before replacing the seals, haha, UNLESS I discover you donít have to remove the cam gear. In that case, I can replace those babies no problem for like $25, the same cost as Iíll probably end up wasting on additives (and doing the job right).

Will have to see if anyone has answers to my questions to gain the confidence before trying that though haha
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Old 09-23-2022, 02:46 AM   #13
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You shouldn't have to mess with the cam gear at all. You will, however, have to unbolt the cam bearing caps to get the rocker arms out. No biggie, just keep them in the same order front to back and torque them to spec afterwards.
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Old 09-23-2022, 04:02 AM   #14
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You shouldn't have to mess with the cam gear at all. You will, however, have to unbolt the cam bearing caps to get the rocker arms out. No biggie, just keep them in the same order front to back and torque them to spec afterwards.
That sounds awesome, but what are the cam bearing caps? It sounds kinda like youíre describing the rockers themselves, which I saw in another valve stem seal video the guy removed one by one (whereas here they seem to be PART of the rocker arm on the KA24E), and he also noted to make sure to keep them in order and reinstall in the same way.

In the video below, all he does is remove the cam gear and then the 2 rocker arms, and then puts the cam gear back on and starts changing seals. I was hoping to just be able to remove the 2 rocker arms and change the seals, but what are the cam bearing caps that have to be removed? Maybe thatís why he had to remove the cam gear?

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=fXhKdO...ature=youtu.be
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Old 09-23-2022, 05:02 AM   #15
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The camshaft bearing caps are the surface the camshaft rides on inside the cylinder head. Kind like the main crankshaft bearings in the engine block, just smaller. The shafts sit on top of the bearing caps and both are fastened to the cylinder head using the same bolts. Technically you don't even need to touch the bearing caps as long as you can get the rocker arm shafts out, but it's good practice to keep everything organized and all of those small metal parts accounted for. Speaking of which, it's also not a bad idea to order a few spare valve keepers. Murphy's law dictates that if you order just the valve stem seals at least one of those things will go flying off never to be seen again, but if you order a few spares in anticipation everything will play nice and you won't end up needing them.

In the video it looks like he undid the camshaft bolt to release any downward tension on the camshaft while unbolting all the rocker arms. The timing chain pulls downwards on the camshaft gear, so once you take the rocker arm bolts out the back of the camshaft will want to go up. The camshaft can't really go anywhere but it's still a good idea to ziptie the chain to the sprocket just in case. Going back together you'll definitely need to follow the torque sequence and torque the bolts in stages (i.e. first to 10ft/lb, then 20 and so forth). I think the spec for those is around 30 ft/lb but it's been ages.
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Old 09-23-2022, 05:15 AM   #16
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The 1st half of that first paragraph went a bit over my head, but completely agree with the second half, and I’ll probably do that if they’re cheap like the seals. Will probably use the new ones regardless if I order em.

The second paragraph made perfect sense to me though, and perfectly explains why he removed that gear. I’ll have to study it a bit and read around some to make sure there’s no risk of warping the head or anything by removing the rocker arms with all that tension left on the camshaft, but if not, it sounds/looks super easy to just remove the rocker arms and change the seals (after putting the bolts back in to the camshaft with the rocker arms out).

May end up having to try this job after all haha. I bet I could also use some real detail oriented tricks like a paint stick, and looking at exactly where each tooth on the cam gear is aligned relative to the head with pictures etc., and remove that gear and put it back on in exactly the same spot too…..

Would be satisfying to be able to change these things, especially as cheap as they are at like $25 for OEM seals.
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Old 09-23-2022, 06:18 AM   #17
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Yíall encouraged me to keep looking at it, and I donít know why I didnít think to track down the official steps in the FSM, but I just did and it answers my question as straight forward as possible (and you were both right, as was my hunch thereís no need to remove that cam gear).

Yahtzee. Couldnít be easier, although those pins and springs look a little tricky, but totally manageable. Thanks for the help, and on the confirmation that these oil pans are 100% painted inside haha.

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Old 09-23-2022, 05:56 PM   #18
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Gonna make a thread about this procedure? Would be good to document these things... and you seem to have a knack for this...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deerhurst
What he is saying is the aerodynamics of a D21 is a brick in the wind.
Probably at least as bad as a Jeep so worse than a cow.
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Old 09-23-2022, 06:50 PM   #19
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For sure haha. I spent too much time looking at that sticky and thinking it was way harder than it looks like now, so if itís a lot easier I definitely want to put the easier process out there. This is also a main cause of white/grey smoke for these older trucks I bet, and can be hopefully be fixed for the same cost as the additives, but done properly and to last another 20 years.

Iíll also be taking a shit load of pictures anyway just to make sure I donít fuck anything up. Itís a lot sketchier working on moving parts of the engine I feel like, but I bet you can turn the cam gear by hand a bunch after to make sure everything seems to be working the same as before. Will definitely include all the checks I do before/during/after to make sure I donít nuke the engine lol.
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Old 09-24-2022, 02:39 AM   #20
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The more I keep looking at this, the easier it keeps seeming. I donít think you even need to use that slow-ass spring compressor that turns all 12 valve springs into cocked double-action revolvers waiting to go off.

Half the videos on YouTube show people using a ďvalve keeper remover/installerĒ tool, and they literally just have to push down hard on the top of each spring with what looks like a socket extension, and it removes the 2 keepers and you can lift the (double) spring out and replace the seal. Then you flip the same tool over, and you push down hard to reinstall the keepers/spring at the same time.

Definitely worth the $40 or whatever it is on Amazon not to risk messing with that spring compressor 24+ times, with multiple accidents waiting to happen with it.
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