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Old 09-21-2022, 11:14 PM   #1
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Default Standard steering changed to tilt column.

I am modifying my standard steering column, to a tilt column.
This is on my 1994 Nissan D21. In the process a section of the original
standard shaft was removed (the lower section of the shaft is no longer
available- searched all the recyclers and Ebay). Why not cut a spline on
the shortened piece?. The spline has 36 teeth 10°, 1st try was with a
protractor (set-up, from a previous job, made from a disc of plexiglass)
used on the lathe. Needed to cut 36 teeth on the end of my shortened
shaft. Spin index, clamping the shaft on the mill table and a 1/32 thick
rotary cutter, cut the splines, on a reduced diameter of the shaft, it fit
the knuckle coupling ,with a little coercion. Spin index shown with the
protractor attached, ( my memory lapsed, spin index divides in degrees).





Attached Images
File Type: png Untitled.png (365.8 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg DSCN0487.JPG (166.3 KB, 35 views)
File Type: jpg DSCN0489.JPG (136.1 KB, 36 views)
File Type: jpg DSCN0492 (1).JPG (167.7 KB, 36 views)

Last edited by jp2code; 09-22-2022 at 03:39 PM.
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Old 09-21-2022, 11:27 PM   #2
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Continuation of tilt wheel pictures.





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File Type: jpg DSCN0487.JPG (166.3 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg DSCN0489.JPG (136.1 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg DSCN0492 (1).JPG (167.7 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg DSCN0494.JPG (163.3 KB, 36 views)
File Type: jpg DSCN0496.JPG (145.6 KB, 38 views)

Last edited by jp2code; 09-22-2022 at 03:39 PM.
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Old 09-21-2022, 11:36 PM   #3
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^
||
|| This guy knows how to work on trucks.
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Old 09-22-2022, 02:49 AM   #4
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No kidding. The tilt column hardbodies are a dime a dozen here in the junkyard.
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Old 09-22-2022, 07:31 PM   #5
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why are you doing all that???? you know you can just bolt it in your truck.
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Old 09-22-2022, 10:00 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillacdude1975 View Post
No kidding. The tilt column hardbodies are a dime a dozen here in the junkyard.
The D21's may be available in your areas, here in high desert , we have
few parts yards (most recycle yards here scrap vehicles after 90 days).
Pic-a-part (recycler) had 1, 93 pretty much picked over. Why buy a part ?
if you can make it. This is a hobby with me, not a business, I have
machines, I make parts! Anyone can buy parts, it's more satisfying when
you make them.
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Old 09-22-2022, 11:03 PM   #7
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Pretty awesome if you’ve got the tools and talent to do it.

Since you’re a parts maker/repair kind of guy, what would you do if you had 2 of these reed valves pictured below, but the rubber seal around the oval opening had worn down; preventing the reeds from laying perfectly flat? Haha

I’m in the final stages of exhausting every source and variation of purchasing replacements (have 4 active orders to check availability, and found a single one on eBay), but mine are technically in good shape; they just need something to help seal around the edges.

Any thoughts on how you’d try to repair or make new ones (I’d pay ya if you could make em haha), or is this out of your wheelhouse with the rubber and sealing issues? Just curious.





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Old 09-23-2022, 12:29 AM   #8
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Use your gasket to make a mold,(wooden box to encircle existing
gasket) looks like turning it upside down will give you the gaskets
profile. Place blocks of wood in the center gaps, screwed to a base
board. Use Vaseline to lube the wood. Pore liquid plaster around the
outside of the gasket, allow to harden. Remove gasket and fill the
cavity with Platsil 7325 silicone.
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Old 09-23-2022, 03:49 AM   #9
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So it’s clearly not out of your wheelhouse….haha.

I think your instructions were to make the ENTIRE rubber packing though, which I actually already have a brand new one of. The one on the left in the 3rd picture (dried/cracked) is the old one, and I have the 2 reed valve blocks inside the new rubber packing on the right.

My issue is that tiny 1mm rubber seal around the oval hole that the metal reeds cover up, and which form an airtight seal when the 2 reeds (on each block) are laying flat. Circled on a picture below. You can see in the 1st and 2nd pics that light passes by the reeds, so they don’t lay perfectly flat, and that’s because that tiny rubber seal/ring around the 2 ovals on each reed valve has deteriorated so much.



There’s nothing to remove or make a mold from to re-create that seal , and I imagine it had to be almost perfectly created for them to lay flat and create an airtight seal again.

The only idea I had was to use some some of a gasket maker that is heat resistant, and maybe stays slightly tacky, and to put a tiny bead all around on top of the oval seal. Then screw the reed valves in fully, so it makes a perfect seal/mold where the reed valves lay, and then CAREFULLY remove them without disturbing the gasket material so it can dry. Ideally they would then lay flat against the new gasket material, which they were pressed into to help mold/form an air-tight seal. Do you think that would work, and is that what you would do in my situation, or something different?
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Old 09-23-2022, 09:07 PM   #10
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Looking at your reed valve block, I would remove the old rubber
gasket. Here is a list of needs.
Piece of cardboard / Cheerios mikes .64 (use 2 layers ) = 1.32mm.
Flat piece of metal, at least 1/4 thick /no warps.
Brick or any heavy object.
Cooking spray or Vaseline.
RTV. Silicone gasket maker /Permatex blue.
Place strip of cardboard (each end of casting)/2/to give 1.32mm
height for reed plate to seal when tightened.
Spray metal/or coat surface, so it wont stick to RTV.
Put a bead of RTV. around seal area.
Place metal on RTV. -brick on top for weight.
Allow silicone to dry, remove metal plate, trim around, holes in
casting.
Hope this helps.
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