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Old 09-19-2022, 04:17 PM   #1
HandfulZ28
 
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Default '87 4x4 2dr, only left side brakes working

Replaced both front calipers due to originals being frozen.
Left front works great, right front, seems not at all.
Left rear locks up seemingly too easy; not sure if right rear is working.

I put a new rubber line on the RF, bled fine, moving plenty of fluid.

I don't know how these are proportioned, and I've read a lot of threads but nothing specific to '87 Pathfinder 2dr.

I'm thinking I'll try to back out the adjustment to the LR, see if it calms down, and whether that might get some pressure to the RF.
If that doesn't help, I'm stumped.
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Old 09-20-2022, 01:08 AM   #2
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Sounds like you still have air in the line(s).
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Old 09-20-2022, 07:24 AM   #3
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The 1st gen WD21 pathfinder has a three line master cylinder. The left and right front have their own lines and the rear splits at the differential.

The hardbody uses a two line master with a front proportion valve on the left inner fender and splitting at the rear.

When I got my 87 pathfinder, I had to replace every brake component. The entire system was fubar. I am now waiting on a rear disc brake pathfinder to hit the local junkyard, then I am ditching the shitty drum brakes.

Have you changed the master cylinder?
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Old 09-20-2022, 06:23 PM   #4
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I've bled that RF twice now, both vacuum and pressure, so hopefully it's not that. But never say never. I will agree that I should go ahead and bleed/flush all four corners at this point.

Haven't touched the master other than to pop the cap and fill with fluid. I think I want to take that stab at adjusting the LR, see if that changes anything.
But yeah, suppose I'll get a master on the shopping list.
BTW, thanks again for sending the intake-cooling parts. Brakes don't work for sh!t, but the engine runs great and the cooling system doesn't leak anymore!
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Old 09-20-2022, 06:29 PM   #5
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Im bleeding my brakes right now actually, and while trying to get the vacuum pump working correctly, I accidentally let the reservoir run empty and it gurgled sucking in air for a minute until I got more fluid in there.

I assume you can bleed the master cylinder of air by just bleeding the brakes per the normal procedure until the air passes through, correct? Most sources say yes, but this felt like a relevant thread to jump on and ask to confirm haha.
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Old 09-20-2022, 08:20 PM   #6
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I recently did a brake job on my ‘97 with drilled/slotted rotors, semi-metallic pads, all new bearings and bearing races. I replaced my master cylinder due to the age. But I found nothing wrong with it.

I bench bled my master(off the vehicle)cylinder. And again on the vehicle. But when I bled the RR first. Since you’re supposed to bleed from the furthest point from the MC. But when the brake pedal kept going to the floor with each bleed. I read the FSM and it stated to…



****”Start with the proportioning valve first. Then go to the RR second. The LR 3rd. The RF 4th. And the LF last”.


I don’t know what the manual states about the Pathy. But it’s worth looking at it and checking the order of bleeding.

This was the correct order in which to bleed the air out. Assuming it is air that’s in the line(s) that’s causing the issue. It corrected pedal to the floor issue and brakes are nice & firm.

I hope this
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Old 09-22-2022, 02:46 AM   #7
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Do you have the calipers on correctly? The v6 ones swap sides. Make sure you have the bleed screw on top (above the brake hose) on both sides. The calipers are also stamped LF and RF. Do not ask how I know this. Let’s just say it was about to storm and I was in one hell of a hurry. Then the epiphany happened LOL
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