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Old 04-10-2015, 02:17 AM   #101
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Today's progress, learned that me and ball joints don't mix. I got my butt kicked for about 45 minutes before I gave up today. Most of that was because it getting dark but still walked away scratching my head. I have a ball joint fork but beating it just made my ball joints laugh at me. I think tomorrow I will pick up the hf ball joint spreader and see what that does.
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Old 04-10-2015, 02:27 AM   #102
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did you try the 2 hammer method? Hold one hammer on one side and smack the metal with the other, should pop right out.
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Old 04-10-2015, 02:37 AM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ahardb0dy View Post
did you try the 2 hammer method? Hold one hammer on one side and smack the metal with the other, should pop right out.
I did not try that, I used to have two hammers but one seemingly has walked away. Probably pick another one up as well, last time I messed with lower ball joints for my djm lower control arms i wanted to kill that thing. I used the fork, beat it in with a sledge hammer and then had to get a jack and jacked up on the end of the fork. Not at all the way to do it but eventually it worked.

I have seen several YouTube videos but I must be blessed with the most stubborn ball joints known or I am missing something obvious.
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Old 04-10-2015, 02:53 AM   #104
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The one from HF is the same style shown in the FSM, not supposed to damage the boots like the fork type can. In case the hammers don't work.

this one:

http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...tor-99849.html
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Old 04-16-2015, 12:34 AM   #105
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Today's progress was much more successful since a few days ago. I picked up the HF ball joint/ tie rod tool.

I will have to redo some of my documentation and update a few pics but overall forward progress. About the only thing I scratched my head on is removing the torsion bars. Needless to say I took a few things apart I didn't have to and lost a C-clip in the process.

Personal recommendation but probably common knowledge. To remove the parts I still had on I first separated the center link joints at the steering box and idler arm and the lower ball joints. I left the nut on the ball joints so the lower control arm didn't fly to the ground, they still have stress on them even after you took the tires off the pavement.

After this I loosened the torsion bars and removed the 19mm nuts and "arm/bolt" holding them in the rear. I then removed the 22mm nut on the front of the lower control arm bolt. Then the 19mm bolts and nuts that hold on to the back of the lower control and provide lift for the front. Slide the "plate" that you just removed the 19mm bolt and nuts from towards the rear of the truck down the torsion bars.

I put a jack under the axle I was working on just to hold the weight of the parts and removed the bolts that hold the upper control arm to the frame, you will see these are put back in place in the pics. Then had to tap out the lower control arm bolt. I removed the upper and lower control arms, spindle, center link, and all the tie rods at one time.

Since I have all new ball joints, tie rod ends, center link, drop spindles, and upgrading the brakes figured this was the quickest way but your results may vary depending on what you want to replace.

Pics of progress so far, I haven't even tried to remove the lower control arm bushings. I will try the hole saw bit first, then if needed the torch method but hope not to go that route. I probably will just get the sway bar ends cut to remove them since my energy suspension kit doesn't require any of the parts that are currently attached to the lower control arm. I rounded both "shafts" and can't grip them with anything I have at the house.








This is a picture of the basics on the torsion bars, I scratched my head and thought maybe if I removed the C-clip on the rear mount for the torsion bar I could get it out. It helped me but its not required since front mount will slide down the torsion bar, the one front mount took a bit of work to slide up the bar. The other side slipped right up it. In the process I lost a C-clip that I pictured below. Yes I know I have a typo in the pic but at this moment not worried about it.


The clip that I lost, it goes to the rear "mount" that holds the torsion bar.
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Old 04-16-2015, 05:09 PM   #106
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It's a bitch. I removed the clip and it shot across my garage, luckily I saw where it slid under my welder. I only have one side apart though. I figured I could check the other side if I forgot how something goes back together. Been apart for 3 months lol I need to get some time and ambition.

For my LCA bushing, I broke off about 4 different 1/4" drill bits, but drilled it as much as possible. Then between a hammer and chisel and a vice grips I got the sleeve out, though it took forever. I didn't use a torch because the bottom of my engine is a grease ball. I think my oil pan needs resealed. I found a small wire brush and went to town with my hammer drill till it cleaned up. Took forever, but I didn't set my truck on fire either lol.
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Old 04-17-2015, 07:47 PM   #107
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Well I was outside working but it started raining so that put a damper on the "fun". I did get my lower ball joints pressed in so my lower control arms are ready to go. Because of the rain I also found my rear window leaking, it appears the seal ripped and part of the rubber is hanging down. I will have to get a new seal and figure out what went wrong the first time.

It seems the 51mm hole saw bit is too big for the lower control arm bushing in my case, its bigger than the rubber bushings and I would be carving into metal. I started using a 1/4" drill bit and put holes every other 1/4". After this I have been taking a set of needle nose pliers and pulling out the rubber between the holes. Its seems to be working but going to take a long time to get it where I can remove the metal tube.

I would post some pics but due to the rain it will wait until later.
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87 Nissan Pathfinder...on hold... , 93 Nissan Pickup Long Bed.....needs help!!!

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Old 04-18-2015, 10:00 PM   #108
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Little more progress today along with some pics. I got the shafts out of the lower control arm bushings but admit not sure the best way to get the rest of the rubber out. I really don't want to torch it but probably the fastest way to remove it.

Here is the rear window seal and where it broke:




Here is what remains of the lower control arm bushings:
I tried using a wire brush to remove the rest of the bushing but it started to scratch/score the hole so I quit. Not sure the next best course of action.






I removed them by drilling out the bushing with a 1/8" bit about 12 locations around the shaft, then used a 1/4" about 7 or 8 times. I then used a coil spring compression tool and pressed the shaft out of the bushing, unfortunately I probably ruined a O2 sensor removal tool. It pretty mush pressed the tube up the O2 sensor and I took a socket wrench and turned the tube until it broke free. After I got the first one out I said screw it and did the second one the same way. Probably took me 30 min to remove the second tube from start to finish. As you see I still have a ways to go to remove the bushing remains:



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87 Nissan Pathfinder...on hold... , 93 Nissan Pickup Long Bed.....needs help!!!

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Old 04-19-2015, 01:03 AM   #109
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I've done alot of bushings on these trucks, just never the lcas...the inner silver tubes in the pics gotta come out too or just have to remove all the rubber?
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Old 04-19-2015, 01:44 AM   #110
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I think the sleeve needs to come out as well, may want to try a large socket and a larger socket on the other side with a big "C" clamp to push it out.
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