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Old 11-24-2019, 05:56 AM   #1
thatsmychin
 
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Default Compatible LSD for an HG43 Axle

Greetings!

I've only had my '93 D21 SE V6 for 3 years, my first Nissan, and have only been "under the hood" to fix broken things. I'm looking to improve it, done some reading, found conflicting info around here. Some of the info here had me convinced I had an LSD diff based on my axle code, but my experience driving and finally jacking it up told me otherwise.

If I were to roam some junk yards and turn some wheels until I found an LSD on a hardbody, which diffs are compatible with my HG43?
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Old 11-24-2019, 12:53 PM   #2
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I’m pretty sure the LSD from any other “HG” axle will work. That’s the code for the h233b axle. Look for other SE trucks. The 96-97 SE 4 cyl even had them.
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Old 11-24-2019, 04:42 PM   #3
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As bama said, any "HG" axle with a LSD will work. You used to be able to spot them easily when the sticker was still on the axle, usually on the housing.

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Old 12-02-2019, 05:44 AM   #4
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Thanks gents! I feel like (and actually am) a total noob with Nissans and 4wds in general.
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Old 12-13-2019, 01:02 AM   #5
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Just a heads up, I recently had the same idea. I will keep it short, as much as I can. I am a mechanic and picked up a 1993 d21 V6 4wd with 89k from a friend. Goal was to make it my hunting rig and I really wanted to upgrade to a locker or LSD. I pulled a LSD from a 186k 1994 pathy at the u pull it. I was not thrilled with the pinion lash once I wrestled it out of the junk yard in the mud and snow but proceeded to install it into my D21. I only pulled the axles out far to remove and replace the third member, so no inspection etc. I had a loud rear and noise that I believed was actually a wheel bearing as I had way to much and play on the axles. Long of the short is I have replaced all the rear wheel bearings and brake components, and still am having loud rear end noise. The end play on the axles is way to much, I did press off and on the new bearings per fsm. I have ruined a new set of seals, not bearings but need to consider the Junk yard third member junk. Live and learn. At this point I will repack and press the new bearings on one more time with new seals but have to surrender and replace it with the original open diff. Guess I will be looking for another open carrier to weld or put a locker in in the future. I am stumped as I actually thought the pinion lash and play was going to be acceptable for my needs as a hunting rig. So just make sure once you open Pandora's box you may have way more to remedy then just swapping the the third.
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Old 12-15-2019, 02:26 AM   #6
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Just an update, the original open diff is back in with once again repacked wheel bearing and new rear brakes. Why not as I was in there for the 3rd time. Back to original and running better then ever. The wheel bearing end play is gone and the noise, etc is gone. Guess for the holiday season my tip is just make sure of the rear end you are pulling in the yard to swap. I understand the LSD is expensive to rebuild! I am honestly still stumped by what was the issue with the rear I pulled, guess i will put it on the bench and tear into it and do a full check out. Guess I have to pull out the dial indicator and the gear paint. If I could just find that damn receipt from the U-Pull it, I might? try again. Happy Holidays
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Old 01-29-2020, 10:27 PM   #7
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Just a quick reply to the gentleman above with the rear end bearing play. Did you get the LSD diff out of a pathy with disc brake axle or drum? Because there is a difference. The drum axles need a thrust block inside the ring carrier in the 3rd member so that the axle shafts have something to press against and put force upon the wheel bearings at the ends. If that thrust block isn't present then my understanding is that the axle shafts have room to float around a little bit. Disc brake axles have a different wheel bearing setup that uses dual tapered bearings on each end, similar to full floating axles, which keep the axle centered and do not need the thrust block. So they don't have them. More info out there on the web about it, look around. The long of the short of it is, if you have drum brakes you need to pull an LSD from a drum donor. And vice versa, disc to disc.

PS I've done the LSD and disc brake swap and found that the LSD was pretty much useless. And my donor truck was an early low mileage pathfinder, and from what I understand the earlier models (late 80's to early 90's) are the more desirable, due to the higher break away torque of the LSD. Apparently as time passed, Nissan designed them to break away at lower torques, eg, weaker. Ive found mine only works with slower speeds and loose soil. Try to put any throttle into it and the LSD slips.

Scott

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Old 02-12-2020, 04:33 PM   #8
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Great reply Scott, sorry I have been absent for a while but just noticed this. Im certain I pulled it off a drum brake Pathy, but was, my certainty is not always fact!! Fake news I did notice the LSD third I had was not equipped with a thrust block and assumed that was the problem, hence I abandoned the effort as the drive to the pull it yard is too far to go and see what they have and the drum brake Pathfinders are hard to find here anymore. All that said I feel this is important for others to know as it appears not just "any" appropriate geared LSD third is a direct swap! Just wanted others to know and not waste their time. Thanks for the comments and confirming my suspicions.

Guess I break out the welder or suffer with a Lock Right
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