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Old 06-12-2019, 01:55 PM   #41
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I'm starting to experience an AC issue I'm exploring on my 1998 Frontier, 240K, AC is all-original except for a high pressure line replacement 2 years ago due to a pinhole developed on a 119F record day. This vehicle always had great AC even in Arizona summers. I have a dash light in this wired in parallel to the AC compressor, so I can visualize when there is voltage to the compressor (can't remember why I actually installed this light, but I had done same on my 1988 Mazda truck). Anyway, last couple of days I noticed that AC would blow very cold as I've always experienced, then would start coming in warmer, and this was at highway speeds; the dash light stayed on during all this, so my suspicion is that the AC clutch might be slipping or disengaging at times then re-engaging without me doing anything. I was using aftermarket cruise control during much of this that is vacuum-operated, but don't think anything AC-related on this utilizes engine vacuum. I have now put a thermometer into the vent and will get some actual numbers, and also try to pull over and quickly take a look-see when this happens again. I think that the issue will get worse though, and not like I'm uncomfortable in this, as it happened like 6 times during a 90 minute drive.

Last September, the AC compressor seized in my 2004 Frontier, and I installed a brand-new one; that Frontier has the same compressor, and I still have it and its working AC clutch if needed in the future. I don't know if these DKV14C compressors have a thin shim that can be removed or not. So I guess I'll just gather more data, and expect that as the issue occurs more often then it will be easier to troubleshoot.


Any ideas would be appreciated, thanks !!!
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Old 06-18-2019, 12:36 PM   #42
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Drove this 180 miles Sunday with AC, but in northern AZ so only in mid-80s there. Monday drove 90 miles back to Phoenix, was only 105F here, and AC worked fine. I did hose off the AC condenser to get rid of dead bugs, so maybe that helped. Or maybe there's some slight clutch slippage when it's over 110F, but that's only like 15 days a year in Phoenix, and comfort was still OK last week.

So for now I'm doing nothing; yesterday AC clutch cycled off on the 1.5 hour trip, could see my indicator light cycle on and off every few minutes as it should; vent temperatures measured 48F to 42F during the trip, and I actually have to turn off the AC switch or add some heat or it gets too cold. So I guess that's a good problem.
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Old 06-19-2019, 12:15 AM   #43
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I knew I would jinx myself if I wrote/posted about "good news".

This morning, in Phoenix, about 95F, it happened a few more times. I was able to pull over and confirm that the AC clutch was disengaged when the power light on my dashboard was lit. When I got home, I jumped that AC clutch wire to engage the clutch, and wiggled/jiggled the short wire to the AC clutch, and there was no break/open in that wire. This does seem to occur more when the outside temperature is hotter.

So next step will be to pull off the AC clutch drive plate to take a look/look for any grease there. And my fan clutch is lifetime-warrantied so likely will swap in new one.
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Old 06-19-2019, 11:25 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cusser View Post
I knew I would jinx myself if I wrote/posted about "good news".

This morning, in Phoenix, about 95F, it happened a few more times. I was able to pull over and confirm that the AC clutch was disengaged when the power light on my dashboard was lit. When I got home, I jumped that AC clutch wire to engage the clutch, and wiggled/jiggled the short wire to the AC clutch, and there was no break/open in that wire. This does seem to occur more when the outside temperature is hotter.

So next step will be to pull off the AC clutch drive plate to take a look/look for any grease there. And my fan clutch is lifetime-warrantied so likely will swap in new one.

OK, got to this today. I bought some 5mm x 25mm hex head screws to pull the AC clutch drive plate off, after removing the 6mm bolt in the center of the AC clutch with a 10mm socket. Then I threaded in the 5mm x 25mm hex head screws evenly to pull the clutch drive plate off. The official service manual shows a way to do this that's either tougher or impossible. I cleaned up the steel surfaces with a piece of abrasive "tape". There were two shim washers under the drive plate, so I removed the thinner of the two, then re-installed the AC clutch drive plate and that will make the AC clutch "gap" narrower (yet not so narrow that it scrapes in the disengaged position).

I also replaced the fan clutch since it was lifetime warrantied and I had removed that for better access to the AC clutch. So I'll need to try this out and see if solves the problem.

I used my home-made 10mm long wrench to get the fan clutch nuts off easier.
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Last edited by Cusser; 06-20-2019 at 02:36 AM.
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Old 06-20-2019, 12:45 AM   #45
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I like the wrench lol
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Old 09-09-2019, 03:57 AM   #46
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My clutch pedal started having more free play the first few minutes, then returned to normal. At 244K, I decided to replace the clutch master and clutch slave cylinders today as "preventive maintenance". All done !
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Old 09-29-2019, 09:18 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cussboy View Post
I don't think this new issue is related to the ignition switch replaced 6 months ago.
1998 Nissan Frontier, 4-cylinder, 5-speed, AC, 208K

Yesterday morning Mrs. Cusser was in this Frontier, returning from riding her horse. The truck just stalled half-way back on the road wile driving at 45 mph, in the left lane of Tatum. So I told her to call AAA and have it towed to the house like 5 miles away.

Once home, I pushed it into the garage, tried to start it, engine just spun but would not start, as it did when it stalled for her. I started to try to isolate whether issue was spark-related or fuel-related, what I'd typically do. So I sprayed in some aerosol starting fluid, then it started up, rough for first 30 seconds (like trying to stall if I took my foot off the gas pedal), then after that it appeared normal except that the "Service Engine Soon/Check Engine" light was on. And the truck started right up after that, so I drove it 1.5 miles and had two 3-whisked kids at O'Reilly and Autozone read the check engine code, both read it as P1320 which is generally a distributor or coil issue (this has distributor, not individual coils).

I cleared the check engine code by disconnecting the battery for 1/2 hour/connecting the two removed cables together, and the check engine light has not come back on. I don't want to just throw a new distributor at it, or guess, do I just wait until it stalls or won't start again? Note that I bought this with 100K on it in 2004, believe the distributor, distributor cap, rotor, and spark wires are all original, but I have changed out the spark plugs.

Unfortunately, I did NOT check for spark before I sprayed in the starting fluid and it started up, so I don't know for sure yet if it would've shown absence of spark then.

I'm sure Mrs. Cusser has no idea if the check engine light actually came on just before it stalled out. Any ideas of what next step would be? I doubt that a shop could pinpoint what happened unless it was in the no-start condition again, right?

Thanks, leaning now to get a new distributor rather than doing "nothing", as I do take this truck 100 miles away routinely through the middle of nowhere, and it will be 119 F this Sunday/Monday.
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Originally Posted by Cussboy View Post
OK, since Wed. I have taken this truck on a bunch of short drives around town, temperatures are like 106F only, so far. No check engine light has returned, Frontier has acted normally, 100% so far. All I've done since getting it going on Wed. is disconnect the electrical harness to distributor and plug back in, pull the distributor cap and clean it's inside and make sure middle "button" still springs OK, cleaned the rotor contact surface and end with steel wool, and clean up stuff with Q-tips. And I pulled all 4 wires out of top of distributor and re-inserted those.

Question/opinions please: Would folks here buy a new spare distributor ($85-110 shipped) to either install or just to have around, or just wait and see if this happens again? I figure up to a half to full hour to set to TDC, R&R a new distributor, and set timing (I did this once before when I replaced its oil pump). I have AAA with 100 miles towing, and my place up north is 104 miles away, and maybe cell phone coverage most of the way there.

But But I'd be reluctant to replace the original distributor with a made-in-China lifetime replacement based on one stall and occurrence of the Check Engine code, maybe that was some anomaly. So what would you guys do? Pre-emptive strike and replace distributor, or wait to see if the issue ever recurs?

Another thing is that such distributor would also be a fit for my 2004 Frontier...someday.
Update: 3.5 years later, and this strange stall out has not re-occurred. I did Not replace the distributor. So I still have absolutely no idea what happened back in 2016; but it was real, I also could not get it started, and there was a stored code.
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