Go Back   Infamous Nissan - Hardbody / Frontier Forums > Model Specific > Hardbody Forum (D21)

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 06-13-2018, 07:19 PM   #21
jp2code
Software Developer
 
jp2code's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Longview, TX [USA]
Age: 49
Posts: 8,592
Vehicle: 94 LB 2x4 Manual VG33e
Thanks: 1,225
Thanked 1,074 Times in 946 Posts
Default

What are the odds? I don't have a 4-cylinder either.

Your ground cable looks like mine, though (black with yellow stripe).

The battery terminal doesn't look corroded, and the mount to the front of the engine looks good.

What about jumping from the Positive Terminal down to the Starter?

Be careful. It's going to be HOT in that area.
__________________
Joe (not a mechanic!) Don't have an account? EMAIL ME
Free Service Manuals: https://ownersmanuals2.com/make/nissan
Walk-through: Checking Nissan Trouble Codes
1994 VG30E to VG33E with H256 Cams


Last edited by jp2code; 06-13-2018 at 07:31 PM.
jp2code is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2018, 07:42 PM   #22
SBJ
Total Buzzkill
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: OR
Posts: 1,564
Vehicle: '90 D21 4cyl 5spd 2wd
Thanks: 166
Thanked 178 Times in 163 Posts
Default

Checking the starter should be more or less the same regardless of what engine you have. I know it's kind of wedged up in there on the V6s. You could use a multimeter to check the resistance between the starter lead and the positive battery terminal as well as between the battery and the ground on the cylinder head. Ideally you should have little to no resistance. At operating temp the starter should be whatever the ambient temperature of the engine block is.

This is just purely anecdotal, but I once had a riding mower that was experiencing a similar problem. The starter wasn't turning over effectively and in turn caused it to heat up to the point where smoke started coming out of the starter case. After it had cooled down I took it apart and found that it had cooked the grease in there solid, preventing it from turning over at all. It ended up being that the solenoid wasn't making a good connection internally, causing it to draw way more current than necessary and heat things up. Like your truck, the main ground wire was also really hot. On these trucks the solenoid is part of the starter assembly. If you do decide to run a jumper in there be careful, it's right up against the block and there's a serious potential for arcing.

Last edited by SBJ; 06-13-2018 at 07:52 PM.
SBJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2018, 07:52 PM   #23
Mycarsarejunk
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 26
Vehicle: 1994 Nissan D21 Base
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Ok before I check the resistance, I just checked something out. So when it won't start when it's hot, I got out and loosened the bolts on the distributor and retarded it and it actually started but still kind of dragged a bit. This thing is driving me crazy. Before we tightened the bolts down on the distributor we dialed in the timing using a timing light and it showed perfect so why will it start when I retard it out of perfect timing? Does that help at all? Could my cam gear possibly be a tooth out of time?
Mycarsarejunk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2018, 08:10 PM   #24
jp2code
Software Developer
 
jp2code's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Longview, TX [USA]
Age: 49
Posts: 8,592
Vehicle: 94 LB 2x4 Manual VG33e
Thanks: 1,225
Thanked 1,074 Times in 946 Posts
Default

> Could my cam gear possibly be a tooth out of time?

That's always a possibility, but it isn't really something we can diagnose for you online.
__________________
Joe (not a mechanic!) Don't have an account? EMAIL ME
Free Service Manuals: https://ownersmanuals2.com/make/nissan
Walk-through: Checking Nissan Trouble Codes
1994 VG30E to VG33E with H256 Cams

jp2code is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2018, 08:13 PM   #25
Mycarsarejunk
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 26
Vehicle: 1994 Nissan D21 Base
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

I just think it runs to good to be out of time mechanically
Mycarsarejunk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2018, 08:32 PM   #26
Mycarsarejunk
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 26
Vehicle: 1994 Nissan D21 Base
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

I don't have a check engine light or anything. Only noticeable thing is maybe a small lack of power on low end and gas mileage is pretty bad to. No smoking or anything. Just won't start when it's hot. Someone on another forum said it could be the cam angle position sensor but I'm not experienced enough to know how I would go about testing it because it's on the distributor.
Mycarsarejunk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2018, 08:39 PM   #27
jp2code
Software Developer
 
jp2code's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Longview, TX [USA]
Age: 49
Posts: 8,592
Vehicle: 94 LB 2x4 Manual VG33e
Thanks: 1,225
Thanked 1,074 Times in 946 Posts
Default

If it's the cam position sensor, you should have a code. A code does not always throw a Check Engine Light (CEL).

See my signature on how to pull codes on your 1994. There's a video.
__________________
Joe (not a mechanic!) Don't have an account? EMAIL ME
Free Service Manuals: https://ownersmanuals2.com/make/nissan
Walk-through: Checking Nissan Trouble Codes
1994 VG30E to VG33E with H256 Cams

jp2code is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2018, 10:43 PM   #28
Mycarsarejunk
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 26
Vehicle: 1994 Nissan D21 Base
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Pulled the codes from the ECU and got 14 and 41. I replaced the intake air temp sensor last year and I already knew the speed sensor was bad because the mileage don't work on the truck as of last year. Would you think that either of those codes would make it not start when hot? It's still starting when I have the timing retarded when it's hot but when I drive down the road with it retarded it lacks power in a bad way. But if it's advanced to where it will only start cold then it runs great
Mycarsarejunk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2018, 01:50 AM   #29
91nissan94
 
91nissan94's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Crescent City FL
Posts: 1,385
Vehicle: 91nissan hb
Thanks: 61
Thanked 136 Times in 124 Posts
Default

Check the coolant temp sensor for the ecu. Something tells me it's bad.
91nissan94 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2018, 02:27 AM   #30
jp2code
Software Developer
 
jp2code's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Longview, TX [USA]
Age: 49
Posts: 8,592
Vehicle: 94 LB 2x4 Manual VG33e
Thanks: 1,225
Thanked 1,074 Times in 946 Posts
Default

For the air temp sensor, you can unplug it to bypass it's functionality.

The engine will run like crap at and over 2500 RPM, but it should run normal otherwise.

It's easy enough to test by unplugging it.
__________________
Joe (not a mechanic!) Don't have an account? EMAIL ME
Free Service Manuals: https://ownersmanuals2.com/make/nissan
Walk-through: Checking Nissan Trouble Codes
1994 VG30E to VG33E with H256 Cams

jp2code is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 08:28 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.