Go Back   Infamous Nissan - Hardbody / Frontier Forums > Tech Area > Wiring and Electrical

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-13-2015, 01:47 PM   #1
hardbodyhero
SONIC BOOM)))))))))))))))
 
hardbodyhero's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Pine, Louisiana
Age: 38
Posts: 1,936
Vehicle: 1996 Nissan Hardbody King Cab Auto
Thanks: 147
Thanked 185 Times in 163 Posts
Default How To: Taurus Electric Fan Upgrade

So, I took the dive and converted the standard mechanical fan to an early 90's Ford Taurus electric fan. I am very pleased with the results, and so will you too. I have faster acceleration and seemingly more power. Additionally, my coolant system runs consistently at 179.6 rain or shine, A/C on or off.

I will warn, depending on the person and materials, this upgrade can be pricey. The fan, wiring, and the controller can probably set you back close to 200 bucks. Itís costing me more because at the same time, I have decided to do the Big 3 upgrade and a Mean Green 180 Amp alternator due to the added current needed to sustain the electrical fan conversion. I highly suggest you do the same as well.

This thread will be a little long but very much in depth- Credit to PMoney and ahardb0dy for assistance in the decision and parts suggested.

**Disclaimer** This short narrative/tutorial provided to forum members/guests as a means to help provide information and lessons learned from an actual installation. It in no means is to be considered "final word" and should be considered as informative only. Hardbodyhero will not assume any liability, in any sense, from a botched installation, whether performed intentionally or not, whereas damage to personal property or injuries sustained to self have occurred.

With that out of the way- On with the show-

So, you will need the following-

1990 Ford Taurus V-6 3.8L, electric fan with shroud 85.79
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...nid=717&jpid=0

Dakota Digital electric fan controller w/70 AMP relay 119.95
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...rod/prd852.htm
Dakota Digital 30 AMP relay 9.95
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...prod/prd83.htm

Derale 16744 Push through type radiator fan mounts (price varies under 10.00 but I bought two)
http://www.amazon.com/Derale-16744-P.../dp/B000CNAMM6

6 Wire access control cable (price varies, I had this in stock. It is very handy to have around.)
https://www.unikcctv.com/index.php?o...387&Itemid=501

Up to 3 to 4 hoursí time for single people, 3 weeks for people with kids
(Sorry no link to provide)

So, for reference this is what the beginning looked like-




After removal of the shroud-



To remove, first if you have any intake parts that cross over the engine bay, they will need to be removed (this may require a 10-12mm wrench to remove any mounting brackets. After you have ensured a clear shot for removal of the shroud, you can attack the removal two different ways. Unbolt the 4 bolts that hold on the fan/water pump pulley and remove the shroud and fan all at once, or do like I did and remove the shroud first. The shroud is in two parts. The top is held in by two 10-12mm bolts that you will need to remove. It is also held securely on both sides by clips that clip to the bottom half portion of the shroud. I cannot begin to explain how much of a pain it was to get them unclipped, but after several attempts, I had it. I pulled the top off, then lifted up on the bottom part and swung it out from the side through the top.

After removal of the shroud, I took an 8mm wrench I believe and removed all 4 nuts that holds the pulley onto the water pump. Do not be alarmed if the entire stud comes out, but SAVE EVERYTHING, including the washers. Once its unbolted, you can just pull the pulley off. If you have any trouble, just loosen up the idler pulley, just to the right of where you where you are working at. I should mention that during this process, I was also doing a water pump, thermostat, and belt change too.

Old and new parts for comparison, pretty much the same size right? Considering the opening of the mechanical fan shroud and the new fan.




So, you should be looking at a huge hole straight down now. Now for the Taurus fan. You can take it and test fit it either way, meaning upside down or right side up. Either way it still pulls the air, but I preferred the fit upside down where mounting holes for the side, lined up with existing holes on my radiator, as well as the offset of the fan motor placed it in an area I was more comfortable with. I wont lie, its a tight fit. Its best to bring it in from above and hook it into place, rather than drop it in as it would sit on the radiator. The reason is because the fan motor does sticks out enough that the pulleys will be in the way. You have to hook it to where the fan motor end passes the pulleys around the area where the belts are. It can be done, I promise. Once you get it in there, it will have enough room to position it and move it around, its just tight at first. (Note- if you do like I did, take warning that the precut FOD (foreign object debris) discharge in the shroud will be upside down. This means if you ingest anything, it will rattle around in the fan until it is spit out or ruins your fan. You can either cut another FOD discharge area or tape the one up some kind of way.)



So if you are comfortable with it all, you will want to take it out and drill you out some holes. The number of holes is up to you, I did 6 extra because I don't want it moving on me. Two holes shown for example below.



Now, hook it back in and get your push through fan mount kit ready, as well as zip-ties or bolts if you have them. I zip tied the passenger side and used the push through type on the driverís side. Zip tie directions, self-explanatory. The push through type requires a certain amount of finesse. Since one end is wavy for the radiator side, the long end will have to be pushed through the front, and then you will need to make sure you ring the hole you drilled. It can be done, I did it. Run the keeper cap on the end, zip it down, and cut off excess. Make sure you keep spares on hand as I cannot vouch for their reliability. Periodically check the tightness too every now and then after installation during normal use.






........Part 2 Following..............
__________________
Me and Tony and Islandboyz are paisanos
hardbodyhero is offline   Reply With Quote
Thanked by:
jp2code (07-21-2016)
Old 11-13-2015, 02:00 PM   #2
hardbodyhero
SONIC BOOM)))))))))))))))
 
hardbodyhero's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Pine, Louisiana
Age: 38
Posts: 1,936
Vehicle: 1996 Nissan Hardbody King Cab Auto
Thanks: 147
Thanked 185 Times in 163 Posts
Default

.......Part 2 Continued.........

So, if you made it this far, good for you. Now the easy part is done. Time for wiring. It isn't absolutely necessary to have a singular jacketed 6 wire control cable, but it helps. If you have a bunch of wire you can use that too, but with having to route 6 wires into the cab, you would be wise to have the control cable or at very least utilize some wire loom.



First, you will need to establish which is high speed, and which is low. I have already done this, so I will tell you.

Black is ground
Brown / Orange stripe is high speed positive
Greyish Brown / Yellow stripe is low speed positive



Disconnect your negative battery terminal.

The black wire on the fan will not be long enough to make it to the negative battery terminal. You will need to connect another short length to get it there. Connect the two wires and connect to the negative battery terminal.

Next, consider if you want to run / program two speeds. The Dakota Digital controller allows you to calibrate for specific stages or temperatures to trigger low speed / high speed. I wired it for two speeds, then realized I didn't even need high speed, so I am as low speed only. Probably after my alternator comes in and I upgrade the big three, I will re-program it for two speeds.

If you are doing two relays (70 A and 30 A) the wiring is the same, except the 30 A has a blue wire you will not use. (Note, the prewired sockets have the correct gauge wire for the amount of amps rated. Do not connect any additional wire. They should be wired directly to the battery terminals or the shortest distance possible. Pick a good spot and stick / mount it. Red and Green wires go to positive terminal, as mentioned, Black wire goes to negative terminal, the white wire is the negative trip circuit for the relay which fires up the fan. Once wired, you can test by touching the bare end of the white wire to the negative terminal. If it fires up, you wired that correctly.

Positive side (Kelyn don't say nothing about my links, I know they are messed up, I have new ones)



Negative side, don't be confused with the small green wire, that's my ground for the fan controller.




So now, you need 4 of your 6 wires ready. 14-18 gauge is fine. Just like the previous pic of 6 wires above.

You will need to attach and route one wire from the low speed relay wire (white) to the inside of your cab (wherever you decide to put the controller).

You will need to attach and route one wire from the high speed relay wire (white) to the inside of your cab (wherever you decide to put the controller). This is if you decide to run high speed. If you do not, disregard this step.

You will need to attach and route one wire from the negative terminal to the fan controller.

You will need to attach and route one wire from the positive terminal to the fan controller.

Self-explanatory, no need for pics-

The next 2 wires are the temp sender for the dash, A/C clutch relay wire,

Start with the temp sender. It's the one wire connector just forward of the coolant bleed screw. Connect with splicer if you want, whatever gets the job done with quality though. Route to the fan controller.



Locate the fan clutch relay wire. Tap into it. Route to fan controller. This option is for those with A/C. If you do not have A/C skip this step. If you do, this wire is helpful, as if you are running two speed, it will automatically trip out to high speed when the compressor is on. Additionally, if the temperature has not yet reached it's optimal setting for turning on, if the A/C is running, it too will trip the system on, regardless of your fan on degree setting. It is very useful.



Where I through the firewall-



Almost there, now time for some terminating and programming-

Don't close the hood just yet. Get your fan controller and find a desired location for it. It wont provide any useful information while its running so unless you want to look like the Delorean and have crap screwed and tied all over the truck, find a spot to hide it. Now that you located the spot, make sure you have enough wire to reach that spot. Then cut the wire and expose like 1/8 of it for installation into the controller.

I really don't think you can mess this up at this point-



Ah ha though, now you maybe see a 7th wire? Yes, the ignition wire. You have to tap into an intermittent ignition power wire, similar to the remote wire for the radio. This give it the signal to turn on. I located one in my fuse box and did an add a circuit deal to save time. You may choose to find the actual wire and tap into it.



So, once you get all seven wires in, break out the manual and get ready to program. You will only use SW1 and SW2 buttons. Everything else you will not need or use.

http://www.dakotadigital.com/pdf/pac-2750.pdf

(Cutting to the chase with side notes below, follow along with the attached .pdf instructions)

At this point you'll turn the key and hopefully see it power up. Follow the directions in the attached .pdf and follow along-

Set Up
1.Easy enough.

2.Still easy right?

3.I don't remember if it was preset for F, but whatever it is, set it for F.

4.The temperature will set in increments of 5 - 10 degrees and will only go as low as
140 I think. That means the fan will only turn on once your temp sender reads 140.

5.I set mine to the lowest possible number, its never going to get cold enough to turn off, lol) But, if you are running the two speed set up, at this point if you set your min temp at 140 and cut off at 160, then at 160 high speed kicks on. I am assuming though, I haven't wired for 2 speed yet.

6.I don't know, I got confused on this step, but my reasoning is sound from the step above.

7.I like this setting, I let my fan run for one min after engine shut down.

8.You would think that this step should be one of the first, but it's not. Whatever.

9.Does nothing, move on to next step.

10.You will select CAL for this step.

11.So, there are a number of ways to do this. If you are like me, 96-97 with OBD2, you can get a Bluetooth ELM and actually read the correct temp and set your points with the info the ECU give you. So while programming, start reading the temp and lock in up to 6 points in temperature variation. I set mine at 140-150-155-160-170-180.

If you are 95 and below, you can either guestimate via the temperature gauge and hope for the best or have a friend handy to take readings at the engine via a IR scanner and report to you Very important that you start this process with the engine cold. Ultimately, either way gets the job done, just make sure you set it low enough to kick on before the thing goes 190 on you, and you should be fine).

12. Set-up complete



So that's it. Clean up your mess and enjoy. There are some guys that went with the Altima fan, and frankly is probably made more to bolt in correctly as it should. But when I got to weighing the options, One vs. Two fans, then two relays vs. four relays, the two relays won. Its very much a high output fan and I think probably out performs the Altima Fan, but I could be wrong. I hope this helps someone.
__________________
Me and Tony and Islandboyz are paisanos
hardbodyhero is offline   Reply With Quote
Thanked by:
jp2code (07-21-2016)
Old 11-15-2015, 04:29 PM   #3
jp2code
Software Developer
 
jp2code's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Longview, TX [USA]
Age: 49
Posts: 8,686
Vehicle: 94 LB 2x4 Manual VG33e
Thanks: 1,249
Thanked 1,083 Times in 955 Posts
Default

How did you mount that Dakota controller?
__________________
Joe (not a mechanic!) ē Don't have an account? EMAIL ME
Free Service Manuals: https://ownersmanuals2.com/make/nissan
Walk-through: Checking Nissan Trouble Codes
1994 VG30E to VG33E with H256 Cams

jp2code is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2015, 10:23 PM   #4
hardbodyhero
SONIC BOOM)))))))))))))))
 
hardbodyhero's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Pine, Louisiana
Age: 38
Posts: 1,936
Vehicle: 1996 Nissan Hardbody King Cab Auto
Thanks: 147
Thanked 185 Times in 163 Posts
Default

Run wires through firewall, over park brake, and behind the radio. I had the wires come out at first through the juncture where the floor heater output and glovebox come together at the passenger floor board. When I was done programming, I tucked it back in.

It could be mounted behind the glovebox too, but I really didn't want to fool with taking the metal plate down at that time. Eventually I will probably reposition it there, as well as future Dakota Digital upgrades like cruise control and retained power / auto headlights.
__________________
Me and Tony and Islandboyz are paisanos
hardbodyhero is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2016, 07:24 AM   #5
Dragon
Lowered Class c.c
 
Dragon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Yucca valley ca
Age: 35
Posts: 143
Vehicle: 1994 Nissan hardbody
Thanks: 1
Thanked 23 Times in 20 Posts
Default

I did this upgrade cuz my clutch fan finally took a crap at 261,000 miles, I have the upgraded alt and I always do the big 3 on all my vehicles and I have an optima battery, I used a different fan controller, everything works great but the high speed fan draws a lot of voltage when it first kicks on, I watch my volt gauge drop from 14.2 down to 13.0 volts, but it does recover pretty quick, but damn that's a lot of voltage drop
__________________
Current rides:
94 hardbody(bob), single cab, system, shit ton of mods
00 altima(wade), few mods, huge system
06 armada(bertha), 24's, system, looking to slam it
Dragon is offline   Reply With Quote
Thanked by:
jp2code (07-21-2016)
Old 07-21-2016, 04:11 PM   #6
hardbodyhero
SONIC BOOM)))))))))))))))
 
hardbodyhero's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Pine, Louisiana
Age: 38
Posts: 1,936
Vehicle: 1996 Nissan Hardbody King Cab Auto
Thanks: 147
Thanked 185 Times in 163 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon View Post
I did this upgrade cuz my clutch fan finally took a crap at 261,000 miles, I have the upgraded alt and I always do the big 3 on all my vehicles and I have an optima battery, I used a different fan controller, everything works great but the high speed fan draws a lot of voltage when it first kicks on, I watch my volt gauge drop from 14.2 down to 13.0 volts, but it does recover pretty quick, but damn that's a lot of voltage drop
It definitely was a game of pickup sticks getting everything in tune. Deciding what amp relays for high speed vs low speed and then determining what temp to turn them on, all the while upgrading the battery, alternator, and wiring, your results seem exactly like mine.

Regular usage, when I start my truck, 14.2-14.4 easy. Once low speed kicks on, depending if I am idle or driving (30 Amp relay) There is no change in voltage until a small period of time elapses. It may drop to 14.1 or 13.9 constant (depending on accessories running...headlights, audio (2x sundown 8 inch SAV3s, fog lights....all the trimmings).

High speed will f it up though sometimes and worries me still to this day....AC on or 186 degrees (70 Amp) cuts on high speed. Now, at the beginning of a cold start and high speed is activated (ac on) No change in voltage...only when it warms up for over an hour does it start getting weak. In traffic on commute home running 194-196 in traffic for 35 min voltage can drop to 13.0-13.6.

Mind you I am running a 70A stock alternator. Don't get me started about alternators either....I know, I made the conscious decision to swap back after a really bad transaction with a 190 Amp alternator I bought. When this one craps out or it gets high on the priority list, I will do the quest upgrade, which I should have done first.

Really weird in the variations, and I cannot explain it, but I watch it everyday in real time with my mounted tablet and ELM/Torque app running.
__________________
Me and Tony and Islandboyz are paisanos
hardbodyhero is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2016, 10:25 PM   #7
Dragon
Lowered Class c.c
 
Dragon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Yucca valley ca
Age: 35
Posts: 143
Vehicle: 1994 Nissan hardbody
Thanks: 1
Thanked 23 Times in 20 Posts
Default

yeah i have the quest alt in my truck, i have the foglights as well and power windows and locks, hids, system, 1100 watt mono block but when i pulled my fan, the high speed side had a 10 gauge wire and the low speed was a 12 gauge wire along with the ground, and when i looked into it on the taurus it only had a 30/40 amp relay for the high speed and a 25 amp relay for the lowspeed, my controller came with a 40 amp relay, but i only use it for the low speed fan, and i have the high speed fan wired through a 40 amp relay by itself, and all 10 gauge wire, and i only use the high speed for my a/c, and it over rides the controller so i dont burn it to the ground, i put an aftermarket volt gauge in the dash (ill shoot a couple pics, looks nice) and what i don't like is how long iot takes for the alt to catch up, i never had a problem with one keeping up with anything, and i build a lot of vehicles on air suspension with stereo systems.
__________________
Current rides:
94 hardbody(bob), single cab, system, shit ton of mods
00 altima(wade), few mods, huge system
06 armada(bertha), 24's, system, looking to slam it
Dragon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2016, 10:32 PM   #8
Dragon
Lowered Class c.c
 
Dragon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Yucca valley ca
Age: 35
Posts: 143
Vehicle: 1994 Nissan hardbody
Thanks: 1
Thanked 23 Times in 20 Posts
Default

another thing is i'm looking at all these pics of your truck, its really funny how similar our trucks are, my valve cover looks the same, same headlights and grill, but i have projectors, lowered about the same, but mines a 94 single cab lol
__________________
Current rides:
94 hardbody(bob), single cab, system, shit ton of mods
00 altima(wade), few mods, huge system
06 armada(bertha), 24's, system, looking to slam it
Dragon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2016, 01:04 AM   #9
ahardb0dy
The Post Count Whore
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Sorrento, Florida
Age: 52
Posts: 7,273
Vehicle: 2017 Nissan Frontier Desert Runner
Thanks: 62
Thanked 823 Times in 763 Posts
Default

My voltage drops below 13 with the fan on high, and that is with the Quest alternator. Voltage gauge is connected in the cab at the cigarette lighter wire. I did that because I wanted a true voltage reading away from the battery.
__________________
My name is Tony and I'm a Infamousaholic

Current truck - 2017 Nissan Frontier Desert Runner ,

(formerly owned: 1993 Nissan Hardbody king cab 2wd, 90 Nissan Sentra, 94 Nissan Pathfinder SE 4x4, 05 Nissan Titan, 87 Nissan SE-V6 4x4 king cab, 94 Infiniti Q45t & 80 Datsun 310GX )
ahardb0dy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2016, 07:15 PM   #10
hardbodyhero
SONIC BOOM)))))))))))))))
 
hardbodyhero's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Pine, Louisiana
Age: 38
Posts: 1,936
Vehicle: 1996 Nissan Hardbody King Cab Auto
Thanks: 147
Thanked 185 Times in 163 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ahardb0dy View Post
My voltage drops below 13 with the fan on high, and that is with the Quest alternator. Voltage gauge is connected in the cab at the cigarette lighter wire. I did that because I wanted a true voltage reading away from the battery.
My voltage readings are at the OBD2 sensor port-
__________________
Me and Tony and Islandboyz are paisanos
hardbodyhero is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 01:23 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.