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Old 06-14-2018, 04:05 AM   #31
Mycarsarejunk
 
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I just changed the coolant temperature sensor about 4 days ago because I thought the same thing. And I changed the air temperature sensor last year. I just didn't know how to clear the codes until I watched that video. Hate to say it but I'm going to pull the front of the motor back apart and start from scratch with the timing. Both punch marks got a blue Link when I set it, so you'd think it was fine but can't think of anything else.
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Old 06-14-2018, 05:29 AM   #32
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I just changed the coolant temperature sensor about 4 days ago because I thought the same thing. And I changed the air temperature sensor last year. I just didn't know how to clear the codes until I watched that video. Hate to say it but I'm going to pull the front of the motor back apart and start from scratch with the timing. Both punch marks got a blue Link when I set it, so you'd think it was fine but can't think of anything else.
Before you pull off the front cover again, maybe try THIS:

1) Pull the number one spark plug out.

2) Put tranny in neutral.

3) Take out your distributor.

4) Get a big fat wrench large enough to turn the motor over by putting this wrench on the crank bolt.

5) Turn the crank bolt CLOCKWISE while sticking your finger in the number one plug hole. When you start feeling air compression, STOP turning. Sometimes you have to turn the motor over two or three times to make SURE you are on the compression stroke.

6) Take a skinny screwdriver and stick it into the spark plug hole.

7) Move the crank bolt a tiny bit at a time, clockwise, until you feel the piston touching the screwdriver.

8) Move the crank bolt again...just a tiny bit back and forth...until you are sure (by feeling the screwdriver) that the motor is right at TDC. You know...the piston will start to go back down...then turn crank tiny bit back and forth until you are absolutely SURE that piston is at absolute TDC.

9) Use flashlight to look down your distributor hole. The pointer on the end of your oil pump should be at the 11:25 position. Not 1120, not 1130. This is from viewing from the front of the engine.

10) If it is NOT at the 1125 clock position, you may be off a tooth on the oil pump. You will have to pull out the oil pump and reset it in there right using the matchmarks on it. If you decide to do this right away, (if it is set wrong) don't bump or move the crank any more.

I would check this before pulling the front cover. I thought of this when you said you turned the distributor and it sort of ran better. You *might* be off a tooth on the pump.

There is something else, too. From the pictures you posted...I would do a general check on the wiring to and from the battery. That engine bay looks like it needs a good cleaning. See the famous YouTube video. I did this, and it is well worth it. A clean bay makes things much easier to diagnose and fix. Use baby wipes on the hoses and wiring. It's easier and does better job.

Chris Fix has a million frickin fans at YouTube. No fluff. He gets right to the meat of the matter on anything he posts. And he does it well. That engine bay cleaning video below has more than 15 MILLION views.

https://youtu.be/PRSoRkM8GcM
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Old 06-14-2018, 06:25 AM   #33
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I'm confused on the 11:25 part because that's two points lol. When I put in the distributor before, I put it in with the "backwards D"shape. Are you meaning the rounded end of the D at 5 o'clock or the flat end? And that's if you meant 5 instead of 11:25 position
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Old 06-14-2018, 06:50 AM   #34
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And also, if the timing light was showing that it was in time with the correct Mark on the crank pully, could it still be a tooth out at the oil pump and distributor?
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Old 06-14-2018, 08:04 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by Mycarsarejunk View Post
I'm confused on the 11:25 part because that's two points lol. When I put in the distributor before, I put it in with the "backwards D"shape. Are you meaning the rounded end of the D at 5 o'clock or the flat end? And that's if you meant 5 instead of 11:25 position
You look down the distributor hole at the pointer. Think of it as the two hands of a clock. See if it is at 1125. If the D were reversed 180, you would already know. If it even started, it would backfire all over the place like a madman and you would be running to shut it down.

So we can assume the D is facing the right direction. In order for this diagnosis to work, you have to make sure Number One is absolute top dead center on COMPRESSION stroke.

I'm not sure about the chain question. If you matched the special links, it could be okay. Easier to check the oil pump position before taking off the cover again. It is SO easy to turn that oil pump off a tooth when installing it. Nissans are famous for slipping off the marks on oil pumps when you shove them up the hole.

That's why the motor should be TDC compression on number one before sliding the oil pump in. Because you can go up and look down the distributor hole to see if its right. If it shows 1125 on the pointer, you are good to go. Off a tooth, it will show 1230 (straight up and down) or 1120. Two hands on a clock.

If it isn't at 1125, you groan and pull out the oil pump...line up the marks...try again. When you do this, just use two bolts to hold it in place lightly until you climb up off the ground and go up and check it down the distributor hole...again. When you get it right, install the remaining oil pump bolts and swear a few times.

Yeah. We've all been down that Line Up The Oil Pump road a few times. My average is about five attempts before it's right. This job is way easier if you have an assistant with a flashlight looking down the distributor hole. That way, you don't have to keep going up there to look.

Some people wonder how an oil pump position can toss your engine off so much, even if the chain is well-installed. Easy answer. The pump spindle drives the distributor around. So if the spindle is off, your timing will be off as well. Because your distributor will now be incorrectly installed when you put it back on. Either too advanced, or too retarded by some degrees.

NOTE: When you said you checked timing with a light, and it looked okay...did you have to adjust the distributor dramatically one way or another to get that reading?
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Old 06-14-2018, 12:02 PM   #36
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And also, if the timing light was showing that it was in time with the correct Mark on the crank pully, could it still be a tooth out at the oil pump and distributor?
If the engine is warmed to operating temperature, the TPS is disconnected, and the timing light is flashing at 10 degrees BTDC, you’re good on the oil pump/distributor shaft. You’d know it is off if you were trying to turn the distributor and you couldn’t get the light to flash at 10 degrees.
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Old 06-14-2018, 01:03 PM   #37
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If the engine is warmed to operating temperature, the TPS is disconnected, and the timing light is flashing at 10 degrees BTDC, you’re good on the oil pump/distributor shaft. You’d know it is off if you were trying to turn the distributor and you couldn’t get the light to flash at 10 degrees.
Thanks for answering that, because I didn't know.
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Old 06-14-2018, 04:17 PM   #38
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Gonna try the distributor and oil pump today because like you said I did it about 10 times at least before it would start up lol and I put it in straight instead of slightly crooked so I'm gonna guess I'm off there. Also when I did the timing light I did not unplug the tps. Which mark do I need it lined up with for tdc when I install the oil pump? The second mark from the left? The Haynes manual don't really tell me very clear
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Old 06-14-2018, 04:26 PM   #39
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Try this really good write-up with lots of pictures:

http://www.nissanforums.com/hb-truck...2-4-ka24e.html

I've got the V6, so I don't know this stuff at all.
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Old 06-14-2018, 10:33 PM   #40
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So I took it out and put the oil pump and distributor at 1125 and still the same thing except now when it's warm, I can no longer get it to start when retarding the distributor. I'm about ready to set this thing on ��
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