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Old 06-12-2018, 03:59 AM   #21
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As stated earlier the water pump is really easy to change on these. Once you get the fan and the pulley off there are 5 identical 12mm bolts holding the pump to the timing cover. A few tips you might find helpful:

Loosen the 4 nuts holding the fan clutch on before undoing the accessory belt. It'll make it easier to hold the pulley still while you break torque.

If everything is still factory the water pump and thermostat housing will be sealed with RTV instead of an actual gasket. Make sure to get the mating surface nice and clean or it'll leak afterwards. Aftermarket gaskets are the way to go IMHO.

Might as well do the thermostat too while you're at in there; it's right next door.
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Old 06-12-2018, 05:08 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SBJ View Post
As stated earlier the water pump is really easy to change on these. Once you get the fan and the pulley off there are 5 identical 12mm bolts holding the pump to the timing cover. A few tips you might find helpful:

Loosen the 4 nuts holding the fan clutch on before undoing the accessory belt. It'll make it easier to hold the pulley still while you break torque.

If everything is still factory the water pump and thermostat housing will be sealed with RTV instead of an actual gasket. Make sure to get the mating surface nice and clean or it'll leak afterwards. Aftermarket gaskets are the way to go IMHO.

Might as well do the thermostat too while you're at in there; it's right next door.
SBJ knows his stuff...he is right almost every time about these things.

I have some add-ons. If you never want a gasket to leak again on a water pump, don't use RTV silicone on the gasket. Use the old fashioned Permatex brown stuff. Light coating, not heavy. That stuff never leaks again. The only downside is if you ever have to remove it. It's a little tougher to clean off than silicone.

I know this sounds silly...but have you checked your radiator drain plug to see if it is tight and not leaking? White drain plug, drivers' side, near the bottom of the radiator.

Sometimes the only way to identify a damn coolant leak is to fill the radiator to the very top, put the cap back on it, and then start it up and crawl under the radiator area with a flashlight.
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Old 06-13-2018, 02:57 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XoXSciFiGuy View Post
SBJ knows his stuff...he is right almost every time about these things.

I have some add-ons. If you never want a gasket to leak again on a water pump, don't use RTV silicone on the gasket. Use the old fashioned Permatex brown stuff. Light coating, not heavy. That stuff never leaks again. The only downside is if you ever have to remove it. It's a little tougher to clean off than silicone.

I know this sounds silly...but have you checked your radiator drain plug to see if it is tight and not leaking? White drain plug, drivers' side, near the bottom of the radiator.

Sometimes the only way to identify a damn coolant leak is to fill the radiator to the very top, put the cap back on it, and then start it up and crawl under the radiator area with a flashlight.
I have checked, and it's only leaking from the water pump. I can't really tell exactly where on the water pump it's leaking from since I can't quite get the best look but that's the only place it's coming from.

There may be a hose affected too tbh but none of us could feel any leaks on them. Thankfully I have some money coming in soon from work so I can get this taken care of in the next couple weeks.

Super glad to hear it's easy to replace, too.

Replacing the thermostat is a good idea. Any recommendations on brands or does it not matter too much? I don't want to cheap out if I can't help it. I plan on driving this thing for a good long while.

Thanks again for y'alls help.

Last edited by Natnater; 06-13-2018 at 03:03 AM.
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Old 06-13-2018, 03:08 AM   #24
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Replacing the thermostat is a good idea. Any recommendations on brands or does it not matter too much? I don't want to cheap out if I can't help it. I plan on driving this thing for a good long while.
There's some debate about which kind of thermostat to use. Some swear by the OEM thermostats, some use aftermarket. Either way, make sure to get one rated for 170 degrees and install it with the jiggler valve at the top.
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Old 06-13-2018, 11:02 AM   #25
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I’m a fan of using a genuine Nissan thermostat as well. Like was suggested earlier, now is the time to replace all the clamps and hoses. If you have to put it off another week to make sure you can buy all of it and replace it at once, do that.
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Old 06-13-2018, 01:21 PM   #26
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I've never had a hose clamp fail, but I always hear everyone saying to replace them every time.
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Old 06-13-2018, 09:40 PM   #27
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It's a 1 percenter thing but important
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Old 06-13-2018, 09:58 PM   #28
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I've never had a hose clamp fail, but I always hear everyone saying to replace them every time.
I replaced most of mine because I just don't like the style of clamps Nissan uses... after they've been on there for a while or have any kind of rust they always seem to bend or break when you try and remove them.

For what it's worth I'm just using a regular old thermostat I got at the parts store. Its been doing fine.
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Old 06-14-2018, 01:40 AM   #29
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I second the oem thermostat. Noticed the truck warms quicker and runs cooler with the oem vs aftermarket one's I've run in the past.
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Old 06-14-2018, 10:55 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by alabama_lowlife View Post
Im a fan of using a genuine Nissan thermostat as well. Like was suggested earlier, now is the time to replace all the clamps and hoses. If you have to put it off another week to make sure you can buy all of it and replace it at once, do that.
I usually do this if I can. Problem is there are usually so many problems close by that next thing ya know you're changing out the whole engine lol.

I'll probably stick with OEM thermostat if I can help it at first. Generally speaking I've found aftermarket to not always be up to par, especially with how "universal" half of it is nowadays.
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