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Old 01-07-2015, 04:14 AM   #51
fbccars924
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It is possible and it can be catastrophic over time but, it's a slow death for the engine since it effects tolerances.
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mine's a complete shitheap, bought from a guy who hacked it, who bought it from a complete retard.
i put 3k on it with a horrible rod knock before it barfed up a tranny.
it's ugly, loud, uncomfortable and smelly, but i'll be damned if it's not reliable.
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Old 01-07-2015, 01:09 PM   #52
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Tolerances? Might be another dumb question?
I really appreciate the reply, this stock fan in now looks like its about to break and shoot a blade through my radiator... anybody else have this happen with WP RAD replacement? I feel my thermostat IS operating properly because after i kill truck and check gauges is reads mid temp.
what is the operating temp for tge ka24e sohc 4 cyl 2.4 L?
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Old 01-07-2015, 02:14 PM   #53
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The temp in my 97 was just below half scale.
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Old 01-07-2015, 02:30 PM   #54
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Thanks alot for the input!
Mine will ride just over c after idling for a while. On the highway it drops to c but never below. It does this no matter weather florida to Michigan. Once i kill te engine she goes to just under half scale. Should i just replace tstat anyways? I dont want to kill her i know most people might think im crazy why not have it as cool as possible??
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Old 01-07-2015, 04:30 PM   #55
fbccars924
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When the metal warms up the metal expands and car companies have accounted for this when they build the engine. When the engine is at it's optimum temp, right around the middle area, the engine will be at it's optimum for performance, wear resistance and economy. It's more complex then that but I don't feel like typing a short novel trying to explain it all.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C_Case View Post
mine's a complete shitheap, bought from a guy who hacked it, who bought it from a complete retard.
i put 3k on it with a horrible rod knock before it barfed up a tranny.
it's ugly, loud, uncomfortable and smelly, but i'll be damned if it's not reliable.
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Old 03-15-2016, 01:53 AM   #56
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This helped me out big time
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Old 09-29-2016, 04:30 PM   #57
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i know this is an old thread but i wanted to do this but noone around here had any knowledge on how. i got lucky and went to oreillys when my fan went out if they searched for fan clutch ran about $80 bucks but the guy looked it up as water pump exact same part only $45 and a e fan was around 50 so i took the obvious choice and replaced the fan clutch but now the fan spins so hard it sounds like i gotta turbo under the hood and i dont think the engine is getting anywhere near hot enough because ive seemed to have lost horspower
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Old 11-16-2016, 12:08 AM   #58
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Finally did my install on the vg. Used a b13 sentra fan and trimmed it where the overflow bottle is and just a hair at the frame rail and then it fit well minus no lower retention. I used a radiator zip tie for the bottom of the shroud. the fan is turned on by using a grounding thermoswitch from Improved Racing in a in line hose adapter from schnitzer racing (i think its been a while since I bought it). The grounding switch triggers a 96 volvo 960 fan relay of which I've got all the wires tidied up now. the volvo relay can trigger 2 fans using 2 thermoswitches at different temps or can be AC triggered with a seperate relay setup in grounded activation. The reason I went this route is I don't like power wires going everywhere and volvo figured out the task of putting 2 relays in a sealed unit WITH PIGTAILS. love me some pigtails.
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