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Old 09-10-2019, 04:53 AM   #71
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Fantastic write up - I wish all how-to's were this comprehensive.
That said I have two questions about doing this on my truck. I scavenged the entire R134a system from a wrecked truck this weekend, and I appear to have everything I need to do this. If I can trust the wrecker, the truck I got it off was a 96', where as mine is a 91'. Both are 4WD KA24E.

1. In reading through some people have mentioned that the compressor should be able to provide suction or pressure as I turn the rotor. The one I got does not do either. Does this mean it's a bad compressor, or am I just not able to engage the clutch on it to make it work?

2. The connector for my drier pressure switch doesn't match anything I have near it - there's an unused connector near there that also has two wires though, did they change the design of it at some point? The first photo is the connector from the drier, the second two are a connector that is bundled with the turn signal and headlight cables.

Drier Connector:


Engine Bay Connector:

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Old 09-10-2019, 04:59 AM   #72
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Wow. Clearly I didn't read through this carefully enough. The last few posts answered my question about the pressure switch. Makes sense that the 1991 was wired for an R12 system and the later model was the R134a.

Sounds like Midnight Tech is saying I can just re-wire the existing pressure switch and it should work fine.
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Old 09-10-2019, 09:26 AM   #73
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The r12 switch will work, but it does have a different cutout setting. 134 runs a higher pressure so your system may cycle more.
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Old 09-10-2019, 01:05 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1991d21 View Post
In reading through some people have mentioned that the compressor should be able to provide suction or pressure as I turn the rotor. The one I got does not do either. Does this mean it's a bad compressor, or am I just not able to engage the clutch on it to make it work?

You need to rotate the CENTER part of the compressor (the drive plate), not just the outer pulley (which should rotate freely and be smooth and almost soundless). There may be considerable resistance and you may need a wrench on the center of the drive plate to turn it.



If the compressor is not yet installed, you could add some refrigeration oil to the compressor and then turn the drive plate clockwise, and should be able to feel air and hve oil come out the high pressure side.
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Old 09-12-2019, 05:50 AM   #75
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Originally Posted by cadillacdude1975 View Post
The r12 switch will work, but it does have a different cutout setting. 134 runs a higher pressure so your system may cycle more.
Is the switch not on top of the drier? Or is it on the vehicle side somewhere? The drier is from the R134a system, so that part of it matches everything else, it's the vehicle side connection that doesn't match.
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Old 09-12-2019, 05:53 AM   #76
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Originally Posted by Cusser View Post
You need to rotate the CENTER part of the compressor (the drive plate), not just the outer pulley (which should rotate freely and be smooth and almost soundless). There may be considerable resistance and you may need a wrench on the center of the drive plate to turn it.
The pulley runs free and smooth but there is only a small amount of resistance from rotating the center part of the rotor. It's definitely not drawing in any air from the suction port, or blowing any out from the discharge port.

I don't know much about these compressors - is it possible it needs some oil to lube up the seals and get them functioning properly? Can these be rebuilt?
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Old 09-12-2019, 01:08 PM   #77
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there is only a small amount of resistance from rotating the center part of the rotor. It's definitely not drawing in any air from the suction port, or blowing any out from the discharge port.

The compressor is simply a pump, you should feel air coming out the discharge/high side when the drive plate is rotated. Sounds bad to me.


If you can, see if you can feel a brand new compressor at the parts store to compare.
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