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Old 06-12-2019, 01:55 PM   #41
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I'm starting to experience an AC issue I'm exploring on my 1998 Frontier, 240K, AC is all-original except for a high pressure line replacement 2 years ago due to a pinhole developed on a 119F record day. This vehicle always had great AC even in Arizona summers. I have a dash light in this wired in parallel to the AC compressor, so I can visualize when there is voltage to the compressor (can't remember why I actually installed this light, but I had done same on my 1988 Mazda truck). Anyway, last couple of days I noticed that AC would blow very cold as I've always experienced, then would start coming in warmer, and this was at highway speeds; the dash light stayed on during all this, so my suspicion is that the AC clutch might be slipping or disengaging at times then re-engaging without me doing anything. I was using aftermarket cruise control during much of this that is vacuum-operated, but don't think anything AC-related on this utilizes engine vacuum. I have now put a thermometer into the vent and will get some actual numbers, and also try to pull over and quickly take a look-see when this happens again. I think that the issue will get worse though, and not like I'm uncomfortable in this, as it happened like 6 times during a 90 minute drive.

Last September, the AC compressor seized in my 2004 Frontier, and I installed a brand-new one; that Frontier has the same compressor, and I still have it and its working AC clutch if needed in the future. I don't know if these DKV14C compressors have a thin shim that can be removed or not. So I guess I'll just gather more data, and expect that as the issue occurs more often then it will be easier to troubleshoot.


Any ideas would be appreciated, thanks !!!
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Old 06-18-2019, 12:36 PM   #42
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Drove this 180 miles Sunday with AC, but in northern AZ so only in mid-80s there. Monday drove 90 miles back to Phoenix, was only 105F here, and AC worked fine. I did hose off the AC condenser to get rid of dead bugs, so maybe that helped. Or maybe there's some slight clutch slippage when it's over 110F, but that's only like 15 days a year in Phoenix, and comfort was still OK last week.

So for now I'm doing nothing; yesterday AC clutch cycled off on the 1.5 hour trip, could see my indicator light cycle on and off every few minutes as it should; vent temperatures measured 48F to 42F during the trip, and I actually have to turn off the AC switch or add some heat or it gets too cold. So I guess that's a good problem.
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Old 06-19-2019, 12:15 AM   #43
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I knew I would jinx myself if I wrote/posted about "good news".

This morning, in Phoenix, about 95F, it happened a few more times. I was able to pull over and confirm that the AC clutch was disengaged when the power light on my dashboard was lit. When I got home, I jumped that AC clutch wire to engage the clutch, and wiggled/jiggled the short wire to the AC clutch, and there was no break/open in that wire. This does seem to occur more when the outside temperature is hotter.

So next step will be to pull off the AC clutch drive plate to take a look/look for any grease there. And my fan clutch is lifetime-warrantied so likely will swap in new one.
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Old 06-19-2019, 11:25 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cusser View Post
I knew I would jinx myself if I wrote/posted about "good news".

This morning, in Phoenix, about 95F, it happened a few more times. I was able to pull over and confirm that the AC clutch was disengaged when the power light on my dashboard was lit. When I got home, I jumped that AC clutch wire to engage the clutch, and wiggled/jiggled the short wire to the AC clutch, and there was no break/open in that wire. This does seem to occur more when the outside temperature is hotter.

So next step will be to pull off the AC clutch drive plate to take a look/look for any grease there. And my fan clutch is lifetime-warrantied so likely will swap in new one.

OK, got to this today. I bought some 5mm x 25mm hex head screws to pull the AC clutch drive plate off, after removing the 6mm bolt in the center of the AC clutch with a 10mm socket. Then I threaded in the 5mm x 25mm hex head screws evenly to pull the clutch drive plate off. The official service manual shows a way to do this that's either tougher or impossible. I cleaned up the steel surfaces with a piece of abrasive "tape". There were two shim washers under the drive plate, so I removed the thinner of the two, then re-installed the AC clutch drive plate and that will make the AC clutch "gap" narrower (yet not so narrow that it scrapes in the disengaged position).

I also replaced the fan clutch since it was lifetime warrantied and I had removed that for better access to the AC clutch. So I'll need to try this out and see if solves the problem.

I used my home-made 10mm long wrench to get the fan clutch nuts off easier.
Attached Images
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File Type: jpg DSC07135.jpg (90.4 KB, 1 views)
File Type: jpg 10mm extra long combination wrench.jpg (38.8 KB, 3 views)
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Last edited by Cusser; 06-20-2019 at 02:36 AM.
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Old 06-20-2019, 12:45 AM   #45
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I like the wrench lol
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Old 09-09-2019, 03:57 AM   #46
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My clutch pedal started having more free play the first few minutes, then returned to normal. At 244K, I decided to replace the clutch master and clutch slave cylinders today as "preventive maintenance". All done !
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