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#21 | |
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Also, make sure you disconnect the throttle position sensor when setting the timing.
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#22 |
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You may be able to just turn the distributor.
![]() I mean, that dude is cranked all the way, as far as it will go, to the Left. Would all the way to the Left put it in that 25-30° BTDC range?
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#23 | |
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Look down the distributor hole to see if the spindle is in the correct position. If it isn't...pull the oil pump and reset it to the correct position.
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1997 King Cab XE, 5-sp, canopy, AC/PS, KA24E, 115,000 miles. Need a technical manual? Drop me a message. Chilton's for amateurs. ![]() Last edited by XoXSciFiGuy; 10-01-2018 at 04:05 PM. |
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#24 |
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I did not disconnect the TPS when I checked it. Does this make a difference? If i move the dist. The other way it just gets further way from that most right timing mark
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#25 |
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Yes it can. Try it again with the tps disconnected
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#26 | |
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You're just about 45 mins away from me. Quite a few guys from AL on this board.
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#27 |
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#28 | |
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#29 | |
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#30 |
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Pictures below show correct oil pump spindle position, and final distributor (with rotor connected) position for your truck. At top dead center.
Oil spindle position, correct, at TDC: Notice if you looking down at the engine from the drivers' side, spindle is at the 11:25 clock position. Not 1130, not 1120, which will be OFF by a bunch of degrees. 11:25 o clock. Notice the end of the spindle is slightly toward the FRONT of the engine. ![]() Distributor with rotor installed position, correct, at TDC: ![]() NOTE: The real problem here is when you line up the matchmarks between the body of the oil pump and the spindle... and you start sticking that oil pump up the hole... That the spindle has a bad habit of moving one tooth, one way or another, putting you at 1130 or 1120. And the only way to get around this is a real PITA. You have to get it up there all the way, stick in a single bolt to hold the oil pump in place... And climb out from under the damn truck and get up there and LOOK at the spindle. If it's wrong, you have to pull it back OUT...line up the marks again...and do the same thing. LOL you get tired doing this, too. Been there. But when you finally get it right, then lock down the oil pump bolts and you are good to go. Just make sure you have that engine at absolute Top Dead Center before you begin the oil pump install. The reason for sticking a thin screwdriver into the number one spark plug hole while pulling the engine around with the Big Damn Wrench on the crank bolt is simple. You can feel the piston coming UP as you turn the crank bolt. You can feel it touching the screwdriver. At some point it will reach the very top of the stroke and start to go back down. That's when you reverse your crank bolt turn a hair until you get it back to absolute TDC. Works every time. You stick your finger in the spark plug hole at first, to make sure you are coming up on the compression stroke, instead of the exhaust stroke. You will feel air pushing against your finger. When sliding the oil pump up through the distributor hole, it's almost like surgery. The slightest bump will sometimes move the spindle and throw it off the marks. An assistant who understands how this works can be a big help. That way you don't have to keep climbing out from under the truck to look. I once had to do that a dozen times. And if you pull your oil pump...always replace the gasket afterward.
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1997 King Cab XE, 5-sp, canopy, AC/PS, KA24E, 115,000 miles. Need a technical manual? Drop me a message. Chilton's for amateurs. ![]() Last edited by XoXSciFiGuy; 10-02-2018 at 04:10 AM. |
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