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Old 05-12-2019, 03:01 AM   #1
FixItAtHome_d21
 
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Default Clutch Problem D21 1995

I have a 1995 D21, that I've been working on. It was parked for nearly 15 years in dusty dry conditions. I got the engine to run, which I was excited for, but I noticed the clutch pedal has no pressure at all.

Issue:
The pedal will just sink down and will not come back up. I did some research on it and it said it might be the clutch slave or master cylinder.

The Master looked okay from just looking at it, so I bought a slave, and installed it. I keep bleeding it but the pedal will still sink all the way and not come up.

Questions:
What can be the cause of the clutch sinking?
Also, should the clutch fork move even without the slave cylinder? (Mine does not move)
Should I buy a new master?(I don't want to spend that much money, on something that might not fix the problem)


Thanks!
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Old 05-12-2019, 04:26 AM   #2
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Have you bleed it at the damper? On the passenger side firewall.
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Old 05-12-2019, 08:31 AM   #3
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The clutch master cylinder is like 25 bucks or less. With the age of the truck, I would change the pressure line as well as the master cylinder and delete the damper. Be sure to bench bleed the master cylinder like you would for the brakes. Before you put the new master cylinder on the firewall, be sure to adjust the length of the pushrod to match the one you took off the truck.

And the fork will move a little by hand. If you can fully depress the fork, the pressure plate is probably shot.
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Old 05-12-2019, 01:29 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillacdude1975 View Post
The clutch master cylinder is like 25 bucks or less. With the age of the truck, I would change the pressure line as well as the master cylinder and delete the damper. Be sure to bench bleed the master cylinder like you would for the brakes. Before you put the new master cylinder on the firewall, be sure to adjust the length of the pushrod to match the one you took off the truck.

And the fork will move a little by hand. If you can fully depress the fork, the pressure plate is probably shot.

The fork will be tough to move by hand. Yes, change the clutch master cylinder too, and bleed out all the old fluid.


I've had this happen on my 1988 Mazda truck (pedal staying down), always changed out both master and slave together.
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Old 05-25-2019, 06:30 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 91nissan94 View Post
Have you bleed it at the damper? On the passenger side firewall.
Yes, but it will still stay all the way down.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillacdude1975 View Post
The clutch master cylinder is like 25 bucks or less. With the age of the truck, I would change the pressure line as well as the master cylinder and delete the damper. Be sure to bench bleed the master cylinder like you would for the brakes. Before you put the new master cylinder on the firewall, be sure to adjust the length of the pushrod to match the one you took off the truck.

And the fork will move a little by hand. If you can fully depress the fork, the pressure plate is probably shot.
I bought a new master cylinder and installed it. I did not delete the damper but I did bleed the system and it still will just stay down and feels like it has no pressure at all.
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Old 05-25-2019, 10:43 PM   #6
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Bleed again, correctly. Does fluid come out the bleed screw when pumped? Did you bench-bleed the clutch master prior to installation?
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Old 05-26-2019, 12:17 AM   #7
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Delete the damper, replace the slave cylinder and the pressure hose.
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Old 05-26-2019, 04:39 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cusser View Post
Bleed again, correctly. Does fluid come out the bleed screw when pumped? Did you bench-bleed the clutch master prior to installation?
I think that is the problem, I'm bleeding it incorrectly because when the pedal is down instead of fluid coming out, it sucks in air, as if there is a vacuum created in the lines or something. And no I did not bench bleed it prior to installation, I was in a hurry, which was my dumbass mistake lol, do I need to take it out and bleed it? Or what shall I do now?
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Old 05-26-2019, 09:13 PM   #9
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You can bleed it with it on the truck. Just plug the fitting with the bleeder kit. It is actually easier to bleed when it is bolted into place, you just need a helper.
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Old 05-28-2019, 12:13 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cusser View Post
Bleed again, correctly. Does fluid come out the bleed screw when pumped? Did you bench-bleed the clutch master prior to installation?
Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillacdude1975 View Post
You can bleed it with it on the truck. Just plug the fitting with the bleeder kit. It is actually easier to bleed when it is bolted into place, you just need a helper.
I finally fixed it, it almost costed me an eye but I did it! I had to take out everything, bench bleed it again, clean the lines, and bleed it starting from the dampener. I was really losing hope of doing it myself, but I'm glad I gave it another shot.
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