Go Back   Infamous Nissan - Hardbody / Frontier Forums > Model Specific > Hardbody Forum (D21)

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-14-2018, 02:11 AM   #1
VOTS95
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 162
Vehicle: 1995 XE King Cab 4x4, V6, 1997 Reg Cab, 5 sp, 2WD
Thanks: 17
Thanked 27 Times in 23 Posts
Default Rear Wheel Bearing

I was getting a grinding noise from the rear axle on my 95 so I replaced both rear wheel bearings and seals about 6,000 miles ago. I got my parts from the dealer. I changed the rear diff fluid at the same time. Nice and quiet.

The noise came back on the right side so I figured either I got a bad bearing from the Dealer, (not very likely) or I did something wrong during the installation, (more likely).

I decided to replace that bearing and got my parts online, I used a National bearing and seal this time. This bearing has lasted about 1,000 miles and is starting to roar again.

Now I need to do the job again but I'm thinking there's no way the bearings are at fault. I'm thinking maybe the axle has been damaged/bent and is causing the bearing to side load or load unevenly and causing it to fail.

Anyone else gone thru this or have some feedback? Thanks

VOTS
VOTS95 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2018, 02:33 AM   #2
kellybig
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Omaha
Posts: 381
Vehicle: 1991 Nissan D21 King Cab V6 4x4 SE
Thanks: 18
Thanked 32 Times in 31 Posts
Default

Is it possible that you seated the bearing incorrectly. Twice would be odd. That came immediately to my mind. Just st a thought.
kellybig is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2018, 05:51 AM   #3
XoXSciFiGuy
 
XoXSciFiGuy's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 785
Vehicle: 1997 D21 King Cab 2WD
Thanks: 22
Thanked 103 Times in 95 Posts
Default

Did you grease the bearing properly? The old school way is to lay a big wad of grease in your hand, and then push and spin the bearing around, forcing the grease into the bearing. This takes a lot of grease, and many attempts, to do it properly.

Big clump of grease in your hand. Hold the bearing in the other hand. Press it into the grease hard, and do a half turn. Keep doing that. Put more grease into your hand, press down and do another half turn. For like forever. Takes forever. Eventually, you will work the grease all through the bearing and it will start coming out on the TOP side, the side you can see in your hand.

Or, you can have the grease pressed into it, but that costs money. It's a patience, old-school job by hand. But it works. If you don't get the grease good and full into the bearing, it won't last long. They don't come properly pre-greased. Press down and turn, press down and turn, etc.

Failing that, you might be tightening the bearing to the axle a bit too much.
__________________

1997 King Cab XE, 5-sp, canopy, AC/PS, KA4E, 109,000 miles. Need a technical manual? Drop me a message.
XoXSciFiGuy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2018, 01:48 PM   #4
VOTS95
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 162
Vehicle: 1995 XE King Cab 4x4, V6, 1997 Reg Cab, 5 sp, 2WD
Thanks: 17
Thanked 27 Times in 23 Posts
Default

Thanks for the feedback.

I also thought I didn't get the bearing fully seated on the axle. I have a press and use a steel pipe slightly larger than the axle diameter so I'm ruling that one out.

I was a member of Uncle Sam's Misguided Children, OOHRAH!! I learned how to pack bearings by hand working on the 2.5 & 5 ton trucks. I'm old school as well.

I don't have a way to spin/measure the axle for straightness. I'm heading to the Pick N Pull for a replacement, it's only $30 and I have a hunch that's where my problem is.

VOTS
VOTS95 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2018, 02:39 PM   #5
VOTS95
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 162
Vehicle: 1995 XE King Cab 4x4, V6, 1997 Reg Cab, 5 sp, 2WD
Thanks: 17
Thanked 27 Times in 23 Posts
Default

Update: I pulled the axle and removed the bearing/race and saw there are score/gall marks on the race. These marks are 180 degrees apart, on opposite sides of the race.

Is this a sign of not having the bearing fully pressed onto the axle shaft? Thanks





VOTS
VOTS95 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2018, 08:02 AM   #6
XoXSciFiGuy
 
XoXSciFiGuy's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 785
Vehicle: 1997 D21 King Cab 2WD
Thanks: 22
Thanked 103 Times in 95 Posts
Default

This is a little beyond my pay grade, but at this point it might be worth it to take the new axle to a shop and have them press on the new bearings...unless you feel confident about doing it yourself. I was looking at your bottom picture and thinking that's not normal for a brand-new bearing...I mean...if that's the one you installed recently. Looks like pitting or something in there.
__________________

1997 King Cab XE, 5-sp, canopy, AC/PS, KA4E, 109,000 miles. Need a technical manual? Drop me a message.
XoXSciFiGuy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-2018, 02:11 AM   #7
VOTS95
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 162
Vehicle: 1995 XE King Cab 4x4, V6, 1997 Reg Cab, 5 sp, 2WD
Thanks: 17
Thanked 27 Times in 23 Posts
Default

I removed the existing axle and installed the one from the Pick N Pull along with a new bearing and seal. All is quiet, for now anyway!

I have a press and it's paid for itself many times over. If this bearing goes bad I'll be dropping my truck off at the local repair shop because it's kicking my butt trying to sort this one out.

VOTS
VOTS95 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2018, 03:00 PM   #8
VOTS95
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 162
Vehicle: 1995 XE King Cab 4x4, V6, 1997 Reg Cab, 5 sp, 2WD
Thanks: 17
Thanked 27 Times in 23 Posts
Default

"UPDATE"

The latest bearing started to make noise just like the previous ones. I took my truck down to a local frame/unibody shop and they claim the differential housing is bent on the right side and they want $500 minimum to straighten it. It's less if I strip the diff and bring it to them for a bench job. I'm not thrilled this problem still exists but i'm glad I'm finally getting to the bottom of it, I hope anyway.

My truck has the HG46, LSD differential. 4x4's at the local salvage yards are RARE. I found a 94 KC V6, 2WD with a HG37 and I have a few questions.

Is it a direct swap?
Is there going to be a big drop in acceleration with the lower gearing?
Can I remove the 3rd member from the LSD and drop it in the HG37?

Pathy's are common here and I've read their differentials can be used after some modification.


Thanks...VOTS
VOTS95 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2018, 08:39 AM   #9
XoXSciFiGuy
 
XoXSciFiGuy's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 785
Vehicle: 1997 D21 King Cab 2WD
Thanks: 22
Thanked 103 Times in 95 Posts
Default

Okay...maybe it's time to start checking Craigslist or any other source for a wrecked or blown-motor D21 someone is parting out. Pull the whole rear axle and diff, install into yours.

This might be better than dropping five bills on a maybe. Sounds like this truck hit something from beneath at some time. HARD.
__________________

1997 King Cab XE, 5-sp, canopy, AC/PS, KA4E, 109,000 miles. Need a technical manual? Drop me a message.
XoXSciFiGuy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2018, 02:56 PM   #10
VOTS95
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 162
Vehicle: 1995 XE King Cab 4x4, V6, 1997 Reg Cab, 5 sp, 2WD
Thanks: 17
Thanked 27 Times in 23 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by XoXSciFiGuy View Post
Okay...maybe it's time to...
LOL, it's time to park it for awhile and work on something else!

VOTS
VOTS95 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 11:11 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.