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Old 02-03-2018, 08:19 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nothingtoseehere View Post
about the fusible link, after the jumble of plugs that is right off the positive battery terminal, just down the line a bit, there's a rubber housing that seems like it could hold a fuse, it has two metal slots in it, but there's nothing plugged in there, is that a place where there's supposed to be an actual fuse?
The fusible link can be fried under its plastic/rubber coating, but from the outside looks just fine. You have to scrape off the coating and look.

Replacing your battery cable ends with fresh ones can help a lot. As long as you don't have a continuing short in the system. A common one is down by the starter. Check your starter for continuity and proper connections.

The relays are pretty rugged and don't actually go out that much.

If you haven't done so already, might as well pull all your underdash fuses and check them one at a time, although the problem is probably not there.

I have some other suggestions, but I think I will wait for updates. Everyone on this site will try to assist you, but like any other repair question, 'need the info'. Some of the folks on this forum have helped me a LOT. I am indebted to them, for sure.
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Last edited by XoXSciFiGuy; 02-12-2018 at 06:42 AM.
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Old 02-03-2018, 03:39 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nothingtoseehere View Post
about the fusible link, after the jumble of plugs that is right off the positive battery terminal, just down the line a bit, there's a rubber housing that seems like it could hold a fuse, it has two metal slots in it, but there's nothing plugged in there, is that a place where there's supposed to be an actual fuse?
My guess is some previous owner added something.

I'd suggest checking how it is connected. Often, a twisted pair of wires will come loose over time.

If he really knew what he was doing and soldered the electrical connections, he probably knew better than to add an inline fuse to a fusible link location.

A new set from Nissan is only about $14.
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Old 02-03-2018, 07:28 PM   #13
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just want to say thanks for the advices so far. i live pretty far out in the woods and there's only two mechanics, each 75$/hr... so it helps to have you all. this is a great forum! i will include pictures soon to get a bit more clarity.
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Old 02-07-2018, 06:09 AM   #14
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hey there, i am wondering if any of you know about the compatibility of the ECUs in these trucks, for example, would an ECU from an 84 work in the 86.5 or one from 87 or 88 or what...
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Old 02-07-2018, 09:24 AM   #15
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i believe that as long as its OBD1 it should work. someone else will know for sure tho. i dont have stupid things like computers telling my truck what to do, so take my advice with a texas sized grain of salt.

oh but also, there is no such thing, technically, as a pre-1986.5 hardbody or d21 as it were. those were 720's
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Old 02-07-2018, 10:33 AM   #16
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I picked up a cheap 4-cylinder ECU a while back, and tried it in my V6. Engine would turn over, but not crank.

90 MECM-T110, D3, 1710: Snapped a few pics of it, but they'll take too long to upload.
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Old 02-07-2018, 01:23 PM   #17
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they are pretty specific, so look for one that has the same vehicle specs (2wd/4wd, std/at, 4cyl/v6, year, fed/cal etc) might also look into having it repaired.. just a thought
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Old 02-08-2018, 12:40 AM   #18
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ok. thanks. i've done some research about repairs, it just seems the general thing to do is slather it with flux and heat it all up with a heat gun... repair work is all up in the 180 and beyond range. i'm just going to have to find one, i'm also going to try that heating solution...
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Old 02-08-2018, 03:41 PM   #19
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have you been able to look at the ecu for any burn marks? sometimes you can just smell it and tell.. if you know what fried electrical parts smell like
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Old 02-09-2018, 04:04 AM   #20
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you know, i looked. i know it got hot because i saw it spark, however, visual inspection really reveals nothing.

here's a few photos i had questions about, only slightly relevant, but electrical and kinda strange.

the first is that piece after fusible link, with nothing in it.

the second is the distributor with one link connected and another link with nowhere to go.

the third is two wires that go nowhere, coming out of the dash on the driver side.

the fourth are two buttons that don't seem to do anything.

the fifth is a picture of the engine.

i am wondering what kind of truck this actually is, the title says it's a 1987 but the fact that the computer in it is from years prior makes me think it might be that 86.5. just wondering if anyone can identify it. it also says on the air filter that it's a z24 electro injection.

i will put a picture of the computer up later, not that it will really reveal anything, it'd be nice to just fix it though.
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