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Old 04-05-2018, 04:18 PM   #1
Joe Piro
 
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Default Engine Stopped and won't start

I apologize for such a long first post, but I think all the data we might need is here.
My Nissan has a build date on the door tag of 1992 and it says the engine is
KA24 (no E suffix on the tag). It was running well and I pulled up to a stop sign and it abruptly stopped. It didn't gradually stop like when you run out of gas. It stopped like it had a brake on the crankshaft .... zero rpm in a fraction of a second.... no noise.... no bad sounds.
When I towed it home I pulled spark plugs to check for spark.... I poured some fuel down the air cleaner and it wouldn't even cough.
I checked the compression and I believe I measured exactly 70 psi on every cylinder. So I thought it must have jumped timing....like with the pistons at TDC but valves not completely closed. I took off the valve cover and could see the driver side tensioner broken off. My timing chain has no specially marked links, but I can :
Position the crank pointer exactly on TDC (second mark) and the 1 piston is at TDC, the rotor is at 4 o'clock, and watching cylinder number four, the exhaust valve just closed and the intake hasn't opened yet which should confirm that I'm not 180 degrees off. The camshaft gear keyway is up and the punch mark is on the right, So I conclude it didn't jump timing.
Before I removed the timing cover to replace the tensioner,
I squirted oil into the cylinders and measured #1@125, #2@100, #3#130, &#4@130 psi. There's no water in the oil.
However I have a cheap ($45 ... should have been decent at least) compression gauge so before I conclude that the rings are bad I want to recheck the compression "dry."
Questions:::
1. How long do I have to wait for the oil to drip out of the rings to check dry compression?
2. If the rings are going why would the truck run so well one minute and stop the next... Shouldn't it have gradually become more unreliable.
3. Am I overlooking something... the distributor is the Hitachi... could there be a problem there... What does a crankshaft position sensor look like?
4. Do any of you ever just cut the groove out of the cylinder, replace rings, install new standard rod bearings without mic'ing anything or grinding the shaft, and maybe knurl the pistons? I did that once on a Ford and it ran well for another 100,000 miles.
Thanks for help and advice...
Richard

Last edited by Joe Piro; 04-05-2018 at 04:21 PM. Reason: deleted one unnecessary phrase
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Old 04-05-2018, 05:31 PM   #2
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I took off the valve cover and could see the driver side tensioner broken off.
I would probably start by pulling the timing cover and replacing guides, chain, tensioner, seals etc check gears for damage etc
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Old 04-05-2018, 08:50 PM   #3
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Check codes first. But feels electrical to me, did u check spark?
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Old 04-05-2018, 09:07 PM   #4
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It was great to get home and see two suggestions already.
With the valve cover off the visibility is really good and all the chain links and all the gear teeth look really good. I can even see the gear on the crank shaft and the engine rotates smoothly and easily with a socket and breaker bar on the crankshaft nut on the balancer.
Second... I checked for spark by pulling the spark plugs and watching the gap. It looked like we had plenty of spark. While I was at it I removed all the plugs and replaced them with new.
I guess the possible low compressions an issue but the truck was easy to start, used no oil, and ran well up until the moment that it stopped. Rings usually go gradually don't they?
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Old 04-05-2018, 09:12 PM   #5
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I did a little more internet reading and there is a CamShaft position sensor in the distributor. If it was bad would I still get a spark or not?
Also the only codes to check are the little lights on the side of the computer box... is that right?
Or is there a plug somewhere for a diagnostic device ?

Last edited by Joe Piro; 04-05-2018 at 09:22 PM. Reason: Add codes comment
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Old 04-05-2018, 09:21 PM   #6
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you mentioned you could see the drivers side tensioner broken off... that is why I suggested replacing the timing set up
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Old 04-05-2018, 10:09 PM   #7
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Code reading tutorial at http://www.infamousnissan.com/forum/...ad.php?t=20905

Typically if the hall sensor aka crank sensor is bad, it will not have spark and will usually throw a code.
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Old 04-06-2018, 02:33 AM   #8
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Thanks for the pointer about the Hall Sensor and the tutorial on reading the codes. I'll definitely be on top of that tomorrow.
Where is the Hall sensor on this truck?
The only information I could find on a search was a "camshaft position" sensor in the distributor. Is there another position sensor?
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Old 04-08-2018, 12:13 AM   #9
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the sensor is a little silver plate inside the distributor on the VG30 engine. im not too sure on the KA series.
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