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Old 11-25-2020, 11:07 PM   #1
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Default Anyone in the PORTLAND OR area willing to help me out?

Hi Hardbody lovers! I live in Vancouver WA and am wondering if someone would let me take a look at their KA24E truck for about 20 mins. Specifically the temperature sending unit I need to take some resistance readings on. I would be willing to pay you for your time... Please PM me!!
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Old 11-25-2020, 11:30 PM   #2
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I'm about 3hrs south of PTown. SBJ is closer and SiFi is north of you. SiFi has a KA truck.
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Old 11-26-2020, 12:06 AM   #3
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I'm a couple hours south of you but I doubt I'd be much use since I sold my D21 several months ago. You might start with a simple voltage drop test between the battery ground and the engine block. Since the temp sensor grounds to the intake manifold ultimately that ground makes its way back to the battery via the ground cable going to the cylinder head. That will at least help you rule out any issues on the ground side.

Another thing to consider is the voltage coming out of the instrument cluster to the temp sender...if the voltage coming out of the cluster is lower than it should be that would certainly make your gauge read lower. It's either a 5V or 12V refence, although I don't remember which. The older trucks have a voltage regulator inside the instrument cluster that likes to go out sometimes and make the temp/fuel gauges not work but I think yours is probably new enough not to be affected by that issue.
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Old 11-26-2020, 12:17 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SBJ View Post
I'm a couple hours south of you but I doubt I'd be much use since I sold my D21 several months ago. You might start with a simple voltage drop test between the battery ground and the engine block. Since the temp sensor grounds to the intake manifold ultimately that ground makes its way back to the battery via the ground cable going to the cylinder head. That will at least help you rule out any issues on the ground side.

Another thing to consider is the voltage coming out of the instrument cluster to the temp sender...if the voltage coming out of the cluster is lower than it should be that would certainly make your gauge read lower. It's either a 5V or 12V refence, although I don't remember which. The older trucks have a voltage regulator inside the instrument cluster that likes to go out sometimes and make the temp/fuel gauges not work but I think yours is probably new enough not to be affected by that issue.
Thanks for the info. It has been driving me nuts not being able to figure out why my temp needle only sits at 1/4 lol. I know that its not a big deal and might even be normal for it to sit there, but I have put in so much work and talked to so many others that have theirs sit at 1/2... Now its personal lol!

The FSM says that the sender should be reading at 21-24 ohms at 100 degrees Celsius. Mine and 3 others that I pulled from the junk yard read at around 50 ohms when boiled to 100C. What are the odds that all 4 or bad, or is the FSM wrong? Also, I ordered a new sender unit that all Nissan websites say is the right one, and it measures at 150 ohms at 100C. This is driving me nutz!!! Thanks again for the help! Do you mind telling me how exactly I do that drop test you mentioned? Thanks
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Old 11-26-2020, 12:36 AM   #5
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There are plenty of videos on Youtube showing how to do it, but the gist of it is you're looking for discrepancies in the voltage readings between the battery terminals and other components of the vehicle's electrical system. Typically it's used to look for bad grounds or bad connections in general. The idea being that if there is more resistance in a circuit (because of corrosion or a loose connection) the voltage reading between the positive battery terminal and the ground you are testing will be lower than the actual battery voltage. In essence, it's another use of the same principle your temp gauge uses...more resistance equals a lower voltage reading (Ohm's law) and vice-versa. Deerhurst is the electronics guy around here and I'm sure he provide a better explanation than I can.

Anyways, use a multimeter and start with a reading of your battery voltage across the terminal. Once you have a reading of your battery voltage take the negative multimeter lead and touch it to the intake manifold and see if your reading changes. It should be the same as the battery voltage or very close to it. I'd also unplug the sensor and check the voltage at the spade connector with the key on (with the negative lead on the negative battery terminal). It should be very close to battery voltage if it's a 12V reference or close to 5V if it's a 5V reference.
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Old 11-26-2020, 01:32 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SBJ View Post
There are plenty of videos on Youtube showing how to do it, but the gist of it is you're looking for discrepancies in the voltage readings between the battery terminals and other components of the vehicle's electrical system. Typically it's used to look for bad grounds or bad connections in general. The idea being that if there is more resistance in a circuit (because of corrosion or a loose connection) the voltage reading between the positive battery terminal and the ground you are testing will be lower than the actual battery voltage. In essence, it's another use of the same principle your temp gauge uses...more resistance equals a lower voltage reading (Ohm's law) and vice-versa. Deerhurst is the electronics guy around here and I'm sure he provide a better explanation than I can.

Anyways, use a multimeter and start with a reading of your battery voltage across the terminal. Once you have a reading of your battery voltage take the negative multimeter lead and touch it to the intake manifold and see if your reading changes. It should be the same as the battery voltage or very close to it. I'd also unplug the sensor and check the voltage at the spade connector with the key on (with the negative lead on the negative battery terminal). It should be very close to battery voltage if it's a 12V reference or close to 5V if it's a 5V reference.
SBJ I really appreciate you taking the time to try and help me out! Your explanation makes perfect sense to me and I will certainly report back my findings when I am able to do this test. I would like to do it tomorrow, but its turkey day and I might have to wait until Friday. My mission to get my gauge reading right is getting closer to being completed I feel and its because of help from people like you. Happy Holidays!
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Old 11-26-2020, 09:25 AM   #7
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SBJ I really appreciate you taking the time to try and help me out! Your explanation makes perfect sense to me and I will certainly report back my findings when I am able to do this test. I would like to do it tomorrow, but its turkey day and I might have to wait until Friday. My mission to get my gauge reading right is getting closer to being completed I feel and its because of help from people like you. Happy Holidays!
If your temp needle is sitting at 1/4 on the gauge, this doesn't necessarily mean anything is wrong. Mine sits just above that (between 1/4 and 1/2 almost exactly, almost all of the time.) It stays below 1/2 even doing in-town driving with the AC running full blast. It's winter, too. Your engine might be showing you the right indication.

Is it running hot? If not, I wouldn't worry about it. Maybe your cooling system is going real well. You can always install a separate temp gauge. If you come to the DB Cooper Party in June, I'll check it out.
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Old 11-26-2020, 05:40 PM   #8
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Here is where my gauge usually sits. I took this picture this morning.
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Old 11-26-2020, 06:04 PM   #9
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Here is where my gauge usually sits. I took this picture this morning.
Yes sir, that is where I understand it "should" sit and have adopted it as a personal challenge to eventually get mine to, with the OEM parts. If you are willing/able to measure the resistance of your sending unit, I would be extremely appreciative. But I don't want to put anyone out... Thanks for your input!
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Old 11-26-2020, 06:14 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XoXSciFiGuy View Post
If your temp needle is sitting at 1/4 on the gauge, this doesn't necessarily mean anything is wrong. Mine sits just above that (between 1/4 and 1/2 almost exactly, almost all of the time.) It stays below 1/2 even doing in-town driving with the AC running full blast. It's winter, too. Your engine might be showing you the right indication.

Is it running hot? If not, I wouldn't worry about it. Maybe your cooling system is going real well. You can always install a separate temp gauge. If you come to the DB Cooper Party in June, I'll check it out.
Hey thanks for the invite! I totally agree that where our temp gauges sit is really not a big deal. It's not causing any mechanical damage and is really not worth stressing over. The problem is that I have a personality where if something isn't working as it should, even if it isn't causing a lick of damage, I must get to the bottom of it. After doing all of my research, and having indicators that something isn't working as it should (the FSM specs on the sending unit compared to mine being off for expl), I am convinced that at operating temp, our gauge should be at roughly 1/2 in a properly working system. And being that it is a very simple system that is frankly kicking my ass, it's become personal LOL. I know, I'm weird. Hey thanks for the input and I hope you have a wonderful Thanksgiving!

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