Go Back   Infamous Nissan - Hardbody / Frontier Forums > Model Specific > Hardbody Forum (D21)

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-25-2020, 02:08 AM   #21
PorknBeans
 
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Where I can see the air I breathe...
Posts: 135
Vehicle: Original owner of my 3-pdl 1997 Nissan Hardbody King Cab XE 2WD 5-spd.
Thanks: 6
Thanked 43 Times in 31 Posts
Default

I agree with SBJ...

Find and follow the vacuum line from the Swirl Control Valve Solenoid Valve(Position B?) that attaches to the Swirl Control Valve "bulb"(looks close to a hand pump from a blood pressure cuff that a doctor uses). Detach that vacuum line from the solenoid(mine is brown in color) and attach that line to your vacuum pump. Pump the vacuum pump and watch the small gold colored pointed indicator located on the right side corner(it sits a bit low) between the back of the valve cover and the firewall and watch the indicator rise to the "up" position(vales are now closed). Let the pressure hold for about 1 min(I don't know the actual holding time of the bulb). But if it holds pressure. The bulb is good. Release the pressure and reconnect the vacuum line to the solenoid. You will also know with this test if the valves are stuck open or closed due to the movement or lack there of of the indicator. Or simply use your finger or suitable tool to push and test the operation of the valves(They should open and close as if you were operating the throttle body's "butterfly" by moving the throttle cable's throttle drum lever. If you replace or take off the small section of rubber vacuum hose. Run a pipe cleaner through the tubing before putting the hose back on. This might potentially show a clog(big or small) in that section. A craft store or $0.99 Store will carry these cleaners. Be sure to get the longest ones available. This way it will go through the entire section easily. I have read that condensation can build up inside the steel tubing and create a blockage. I was lucky in that mine were all clear. any condensation build up will be white in color. Maybe just change out the hoses while you're in there. Hose is cheap and cheap insurance against a running engine issue. This way you can also eliminate the vacuum hoses as a potential problem and new hoses will last for a little while.

I wish you were in my area...I know this area of my truck VERY VERY well because of this code and it was my own stoopid fault! Live and learn, I guess. I have taken the intake manifold and ALL of its components(electrical & mechanical) off several times due to small hiccups with my truck and when I had my engine remanufactured. So I do know how to fix this P1130 code.
__________________

Last edited by PorknBeans; 11-25-2020 at 02:19 AM.
PorknBeans is online now   Reply With Quote
Thanked by:
Old 11-26-2020, 12:42 AM   #22
Duct Tape and Bubble Gum
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Alaska
Posts: 12
Vehicle: 1996 D21
Thanks: 6
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Okay, found what I THOUGHT was the SCVS. Tested the plug to ground, seemed like it was getting 12 volts, so I just threw the new one in had already ordered to see what happened (probably should have tested the solenoid itself first). I've been replacing every vacuum line I touch as i go, one at a time.


Next time I checked the codes, it gave me


P1105 MAP/Baro


and still


P1130 SCVS aaarg!!


I realized after the fact that I may have inadvertantly replaced the MAP/Baro solenoid. crawling underneath the truck and looking up past the clutch, I now see a really inaccessible looking switch (that looks the same) kind of below and behind the throttle body. I'm guessing this is the actual SCVS? The one I replaced is on the passenger side under the hood, forward of the vacuum tank. (see link to photo below)


https://imgur.com/gallery/Z2liDzk
Duct Tape and Bubble Gum is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-2020, 02:52 AM   #23
PorknBeans
 
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Where I can see the air I breathe...
Posts: 135
Vehicle: Original owner of my 3-pdl 1997 Nissan Hardbody King Cab XE 2WD 5-spd.
Thanks: 6
Thanked 43 Times in 31 Posts
Default

In reading your post. My BEST advice to you is...be VERY judicious in your troubleshooting.

Download or print(That's what I did so I could write down values and make a "check mark" or write in the component box "GOOD!" when I had completed that test) the FSM and follow it one component at a time. Step for each step. Page by page. Write down electrical values when measuring voltage outputs from connectors, components etc. This ensures no steps or components are skipped that will lead to even more cussing, throwing of tools, pounding of fists on the hood and the like.

About the solenoid in the photo...that IS the MAP/BARO solenoid. Unplugging it will cause the truck to throw the P1105 code. I know this because it has a black plastic cover over the wire windings of the solenoid. To clear the code. Simply plug the connector back in(turn the truck engine or turn the ignition key to "Accessory"), plug in your code scanner/reader and simply erase the code. Don't worry. The P1130 code WILL come back.

The SCVCS has a brown plastic cover over it. It is the one you describe finding. It's mounted by two 10mm bolts to the intake manifold towards the back(passenger side), a little bit low and is difficult to see. You can locate the electrical connector by removing the air filter housing and then following the cable connector to the solenoid, disconnecting the Air Intake Temperature sensor(AIT). Unplug the AIT FIRST! Or risk damaging the connector/wiring to that component(This happened to me. A "hidden" connector! I ended up soldering these connections to repair it). This will give you room to see most components and room to work.

Take your time. SERIOUSLY! Download the FSM and follow the testing steps for each component to ensure it isn't one of those components. TEST. TEST. TEST. Having the correct tools/diagnostic equipment, like the correct multimeter leads makes all the difference. You can improvise of course. But be forewarned!

It is in my own humble opinion that Nissan electronics such as the solenoids, ECM, electrical cables, electrical connectors and the like are VERY reliable(on my own truck is what I'm speaking from). I feel that your P1130 code isn't coming from an electrical component. Maybe though. But I feel it's something else. That is why the testing is really important and to be followed the letter.

The FSM, Engine Control System/ EC-11 & EC-13. These two pages will help you locate & identify component locations and vacuum hose connections.
__________________

Last edited by PorknBeans; 11-26-2020 at 02:57 AM.
PorknBeans is online now   Reply With Quote
Thanked by:
jp2code (11-26-2020)
Old 11-26-2020, 02:58 AM   #24
jp2code
Software Developer
 
jp2code's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Longview, TX [USA]
Age: 51
Posts: 10,222
Vehicle: 94 LB 2x4 Manual VG33e
Thanks: 1,627
Thanked 1,435 Times in 1,263 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Duct Tape and Bubble Gum View Post
Okay, found what I THOUGHT was the SCVS. Tested the plug to ground, seemed like it was getting 12 volts, so I just threw the new one in had already ordered to see what happened (probably should have tested the solenoid itself first). I've been replacing every vacuum line I touch as i go, one at a time.


Next time I checked the codes, it gave me


P1105 MAP/Baro


and still


P1130 SCVS aaarg!!


I realized after the fact that I may have inadvertantly replaced the MAP/Baro solenoid. crawling underneath the truck and looking up past the clutch, I now see a really inaccessible looking switch (that looks the same) kind of below and behind the throttle body. I'm guessing this is the actual SCVS? The one I replaced is on the passenger side under the hood, forward of the vacuum tank. (see link to photo below)


https://imgur.com/gallery/Z2liDzk
Couple of things:

On those codes, try cleaning up the contacts going to the sensors and making sure there are no frayed wires and that you have a good ground. The sensors don't typically go out, but at 20 to 30 years old, it's time. Still, the issue can often be just a bad connection TO the sensor and not the sensor itself. So check the wiring going to them.

Next, on your imgur pics, try opening the image in a tab by itself and copy that link. For the image linked above, it would be "https://i.imgur.com/BTIswy2.jpg". Take that link (with the "jpg" extension), copy it, and put the [img] tags around i to get something like this (without the spaces):

[img ]https://i.imgur.com/BTIswy2.jpg[/img ]

Take the spaces out, and you have this:

__________________
Joe (not a mechanic!) Don't have an account? EMAIL ME
Factory Service Manuals: https://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Hardbody/
Walk-through: Checking Nissan Trouble Codes
1994 VG30E to VG33E with H256 Cams


Last edited by jp2code; 11-27-2020 at 02:13 AM.
jp2code is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2020, 12:13 AM   #25
89'HBV6
Ol'school Geek
 
89'HBV6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: Washington State
Posts: 182
Vehicle: 89' D21 KingCab SE V6 5spd 2WD - 87' D21 KingCab SE V6 5spd 2WD
Thanks: 209
Thanked 52 Times in 43 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jp2code View Post
Couple of things:

On those codes, try cleaning up the contacts going to the sensors and making sure there are no frayed wires and that you have a good ground. The sensors don't typically go out, but at 20 to 30 years old, it's time. Still, the issue can often be just a bad connection TO the sensor and not the sensor itself. So check the wiring going to them.

Next, on your imgur pics, try opening the image in a tab by itself and copy that link. For the image linked above, it would be "https://i.imgur.com/BTIswy2.jpg". Take that link (with the "jpg" extension), copy it, and put the [img] tags around i to get something like this (without the spaces):

[img ]https://i.imgur.com/BTIswy2.jpg[/img ]

Take the spaces out, and you have this:

[img ]https://i.imgur.com/BTIswy2.jpg[/img ]
........and spaces re-added!

People, please don't post a full sized image, in the post. Please use a smaller version of your image, within the post/thread. Add a link for the full sized image, but the thread gets reallllllly stretched (side2side) and is almost impossible to view or read the post with a full sized image in the post/thread. OK?
89'HBV6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2020, 02:13 AM   #26
jp2code
Software Developer
 
jp2code's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Longview, TX [USA]
Age: 51
Posts: 10,222
Vehicle: 94 LB 2x4 Manual VG33e
Thanks: 1,627
Thanked 1,435 Times in 1,263 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 89'HBV6 View Post
........and spaces re-added!

People, please don't post a full sized image, in the post. Please use a smaller version of your image, within the post/thread. Add a link for the full sized image, but the thread gets reallllllly stretched (side2side) and is almost impossible to view or read the post with a full sized image in the post/thread. OK?
What are you browsing with, HBV6?

I posted this using the Chrome browser for Windows, and it automatically sized to fit the screen. It also resizes with my Android phone.

Sorry for the huge picture. I'll fix it before you get back.
__________________
Joe (not a mechanic!) Don't have an account? EMAIL ME
Factory Service Manuals: https://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Hardbody/
Walk-through: Checking Nissan Trouble Codes
1994 VG30E to VG33E with H256 Cams

jp2code is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2020, 03:02 AM   #27
Deerhurst
4/86 SE-V6 2 tone 4x4 HB
 
Deerhurst's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Oregon
Posts: 7,137
Vehicle: 1986.5 SE-V6 4WD D21, 2003 Audi A4 Avant 3.0 Quattro
Thanks: 876
Thanked 842 Times in 769 Posts
Default

Pic is small to me but my phone has a 4k display.
__________________
1986.5 SE-V6 4X4 D21 Hardbody
Pacesetter Long Tube Headers
Morimoto Mini D2S HID Projectors and Hella 500s
VG33i
Deerhurst is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2020, 07:06 AM   #28
Duct Tape and Bubble Gum
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Alaska
Posts: 12
Vehicle: 1996 D21
Thanks: 6
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Feedback appreciated, i will modify future pics as per everyone's recommendations. Located the SCVS and the SCV. It has 12 volts going to the plug, which looks to be in good shape. Removed the solenoid, hooked it up to a 12 volt power source, it tested fine and did what it was supposed to do. This is lucky since the replacement I ordered from Rock Auto turned out to be the MAP/Baro solenoid (different plug, I believe). Did some engine yoga and replaced all the vacuum lines connected to it and the one going to the SCV itself. I figured out late in the game that I could have saved myself some suffering by removing the passenger side front wheel and going in from the side. Haven't vacuum tested the SCV yet as I don't currently have a vacuum gauge... maybe the next tool investment. Praying I don't have to replace that as access to it seems to be the worst of all the components. Seems to be a pipe-cleaner shortage in Southcentral Alaska right now, so I haven't scrubbed out the metal parts of the lines.... though all the rubber ones I've replaced look clean inside. The one-way valve in the system has pretty high resistance blowing through it... maybe that needs to be replaced but I'm having trouble figuring out where to order that part. Anyone know what this valve is called on the parts sites?
Duct Tape and Bubble Gum is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2020, 11:58 AM   #29
jp2code
Software Developer
 
jp2code's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Longview, TX [USA]
Age: 51
Posts: 10,222
Vehicle: 94 LB 2x4 Manual VG33e
Thanks: 1,627
Thanked 1,435 Times in 1,263 Posts
Default

The V6 does not have a Swirl Control Valve (SCV), so it is hard for me to troubleshoot with you. The best I could do is show you where it is in the Service Manual.

Sometimes I will post pictures from the Service Manual, but the SCV spans several pages, so you'd be better off looking in there for yourself.

Do you have the Service Manual for your truck? You can download it for free from sites like www.nicoclub.com.

What you need right now is the EC section, which is here:

https://www.nicoclub.com/service-man...Truck%2Fec.pdf

After the page loads up, use the viewer control to download a copy to your device. I'm not sure if that works on a phone, but I know it works on a PC.

The Swirl Control Valve starts on EC-230 with how to fix Code P1130 and goes through EC-241 for the Swirl Control Valve Control Solenoid Valve (that's a mouthful) Code P1165
__________________
Joe (not a mechanic!) Don't have an account? EMAIL ME
Factory Service Manuals: https://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Hardbody/
Walk-through: Checking Nissan Trouble Codes
1994 VG30E to VG33E with H256 Cams

jp2code is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 05:18 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.