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Old 01-12-2017, 02:13 AM   #13081
johnber
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Still have to get under there and unbolt the driveshaft to check the preload on the pinion nut. I pressed new bearings into my rear end about a year ago and just sort of ran it down with the impact gun when I was done (I was in a hurry and dial indicators are a bit pricey). Per the FSM the preload is supposed to be 10-19in/lb if the pinion depth is set correctly. I was planning to set my little torque wrench to 15in/lb and see if if clicks as the flange starts to turn. At this point I'm almost certain the growling noise is the input shaft bearing but I can't escape the thought that I messed something up under there. I've driven ~2500 miles since the new bearings and there is no play in the pinion flange whatsoever when I got under there and wiggled the driveshaft. Just bugs me.
check the play, if ya need a dial indicator i got one, and you are welcome to use it. IF ya think its the input shaft push in the clutch in gear stopped, it should shut up, the input aint turnin at that point.
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Old 01-12-2017, 02:47 AM   #13082
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I'm confused why you need a dial indicator to set the pinion bearing preload. If you were setting pinion depth then maybe (although gear paint is really the way to go there) or if you were setting backlash then definitely need a dial indicator. A split beam (non clicking) torque wrench is all you need for pinion preload. May be hard with the axle in the truck though, not sure you'd have the clearance to spin one around. I've only set it with the axle out of the vehicle. Somebody please correct if I'm way off here, this is bugging me though...
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Old 01-12-2017, 04:05 AM   #13083
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check the play, if ya need a dial indicator i got one, and you are welcome to use it. IF ya think its the input shaft push in the clutch in gear stopped, it should shut up, the input aint turnin at that point.
Thanks John. There is no side-to-side play as far as I can tell from just getting under there and wiggling the driveshaft. I was just guessing the input shaft since I know that's a weak point on these transmissions. It always seems to happen around 35-40mph, doesn't matter which gear it's in. Mainshaft or tailshaft bearing perhaps? I replaced the carrier bearing about 2 years ago. My last car had a bad input shaft bearing and it would howl as soon as you let the clutch out.

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I'm confused why you need a dial indicator to set the pinion bearing preload. If you were setting pinion depth then maybe (although gear paint is really the way to go there) or if you were setting backlash then definitely need a dial indicator. A split beam (non clicking) torque wrench is all you need for pinion preload. May be hard with the axle in the truck though, not sure you'd have the clearance to spin one around. I've only set it with the axle out of the vehicle. Somebody please correct if I'm way off here, this is bugging me though...
I guess I just want to make sure the contact pattern is correct. It's kind of hard to do that the way the HF35 is set up (cover bolts are on the front and hold the pinion housing on). I'm a total noob when it comes to rear ends, so I'd question my workmanship before anything else. As I stated earlier, I've driven about 2500 miles since replacing the bearings. I made sure the shims did not leave their places behind the bearings and that the bearing retainers stayed on their respective sides and were torqued down correctly. The truck seems to drive just fine, though. No funny noises or vibrations from back there as far as I can tell. I feel like if something was seriously messed up back there it would be pretty apparent by now. The torque wrench I was going to use is of the ratcheting (and clicking) variety and I was going to take both of the drums off first to get rid of any resistance. I figure if it clicks right as the pinion shaft starts to turn it would accomplish basically the same thing. However, I'll gladly go out and buy a split beam one if that's what it takes to do the job properly.
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Old 01-12-2017, 02:29 PM   #13084
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Finally got around to putting on the new cover I got from Santa Claus.


It's a Coverking from Amazon and it looks like a decent indoor cover. My last cover was eaten by mice when I left it on the floor of the garage last Summer.
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Old 01-12-2017, 03:51 PM   #13085
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I weighed it. 5,400 lbs with me in it, a full tank of fuel (26 gallons), a ladder rack, and a couple hundred pounds of tools and such.




If I emptied it, I estimate it would be around 4,700 lbs.
From the factory, it weighed about 3,550 lbs
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Old 01-12-2017, 04:12 PM   #13086
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26 gallon tank?

OK, now I've got to ask: What kind of fuel mileage are you getting with that LS V8 swap?
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Old 01-12-2017, 05:13 PM   #13087
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Only getting 14 mpg, mainly because of the 4.63:1 gearing and the 35s on steel rims. Fuel range is 300 miles.
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Old 01-13-2017, 01:11 AM   #13088
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Shiny, truck is officially all buttoned up and fixed, runs like a top.
Only issue is my exhaust manifold leaks worse than it did before I had the studs replaced. I'll look into it tomorrow I might just have to tighten the bolts up
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Old 01-13-2017, 01:11 AM   #13089
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Have had a crack for a little while in my passenger side headlight lens due to not getting the projector properly seated and a combination of being permanently exhausted from night shift and very few days off. Ordered some new housings which will be modified and painted satin black and the shrouds will also be satin black. Got a switch back LED strip too. Might do something fancy with that. Stay tuned! Ill try to keep my headlight build thread updated.
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Old 01-13-2017, 01:48 AM   #13090
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Originally Posted by SBJ View Post
I guess I just want to make sure the contact pattern is correct. It's kind of hard to do that the way the HF35 is set up (cover bolts are on the front and hold the pinion housing on). I'm a total noob when it comes to rear ends, so I'd question my workmanship before anything else. As I stated earlier, I've driven about 2500 miles since replacing the bearings. I made sure the shims did not leave their places behind the bearings and that the bearing retainers stayed on their respective sides and were torqued down correctly. The truck seems to drive just fine, though. No funny noises or vibrations from back there as far as I can tell. I feel like if something was seriously messed up back there it would be pretty apparent by now. The torque wrench I was going to use is of the ratcheting (and clicking) variety and I was going to take both of the drums off first to get rid of any resistance. I figure if it clicks right as the pinion shaft starts to turn it would accomplish basically the same thing. However, I'll gladly go out and buy a split beam one if that's what it takes to do the job properly.
The click/ratchet type torque wrench would get you close if you had it a smidge lower than it needs to be. The split beam would tell you what it really is and consistently as you turn it. I also totally forgot about our rear axle being a 3rd member style (too many other truck and mustang axles they had me setting up when i was at school awhile back) and you would need to pull the third member out so you could remove the ring and carrier so the only thing you're spinning and checking is the pinion. I'm also no expert, this was like 10 years ago when i built a handful of rear ends. I'm also thinking after 2500 miles you should be good back there. There was a dude who jacked up his backlash when he built his and the gears were chewed up in less than 100 miles. Shit was gnarly in that diff, i had no idea it would do that to a set of gears.

Also, i read the post closer and now realize you meant to use the dial indicator for the play in the driveshaft, which makes total sense. I'd call your rear end good though at this point and look elsewhere for that growl. And mybad once again!
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