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Old 10-17-2016, 07:36 PM   #21
street_rulerr
 
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with regard to the uneven pad wear: which wheel is it on and which pad is it? I would only replace if the pad was worn to the point where it was actually worn out not just uneven.

Also clarifying question. I assumed the uneven wear was "uneven between two pads on the same corner of the truck" not "the drivers side front is more worn than the passenger side front" or something like that. was i correct?
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Old 10-18-2016, 07:03 AM   #22
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with regard to the uneven pad wear: which wheel is it on and which pad is it? I would only replace if the pad was worn to the point where it was actually worn out not just uneven.

Also clarifying question. I assumed the uneven wear was "uneven between two pads on the same corner of the truck" not "the drivers side front is more worn than the passenger side front" or something like that. was i correct?
Yes, you are correct. On the drivers side, the outside pad is about 50% more worn than the inside pad. It still has some usable life though....and the drivers side rotor is very smooth on both sides. While I'm at this, the right turn radius is "impeded" since I put the new tie rod ends in. How should I address this (by lengthening or shortening; and on which sides (driver / passenger?) I want to go to a big parking lot and get the steering straightened out before I attend to bleeding the brake lines.
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Old 10-18-2016, 03:19 PM   #23
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Sounds like you need to get an alignment. You can dink with that stuff for hours yourself to try to get it right, but personally I just pay a shop to do it. Alignments are a PITA.

Seems odd for that outside pad to be so much more worn. Pads are cheap though. Personally I'd just replace both the pads on that side.

And yeah, a new master cylinder is about 20 bucks. Bench bleed it before installing. Probably worth replacing anyway, if it's not failed now it will be soon enough.
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Old 10-18-2016, 05:01 PM   #24
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First off. finish bleeding the brakes. its unsafe to drive around even few feet, like that.

ive done many backyard alignments just to get me down the road better on cars i didnt really care about. drive straight for about 20ft, stop and look at the front wheels. Stand next to the wheel and look straight downward on it. look at the edge of the wheel, not the tire. kinda move, fore and aft of the truck like 6in. does the front edge of the wheel look cocked in or out?

Do the same on the other side. if one is not parallel to the line of the truck loosen the lock nut, and either put in or take out some slack. few threads at a time. 2 at max is a good number. If i recall properly, the steering linkage is in front of the centerline of the hub, so more-threads-showing = the wheel is cocked outwards more a the front edge. this is called "Toe OUT" less threads = Toe in. adjust slowly. drive around a bit, re-look. This will get you close but not perfect.
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Old 10-18-2016, 05:33 PM   #25
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Sounds like you need to get an alignment. You can dink with that stuff for hours yourself to try to get it right, but personally I just pay a shop to do it. Alignments are a PITA.

Seems odd for that outside pad to be so much more worn. Pads are cheap though. Personally I'd just replace both the pads on that side.

And yeah, a new master cylinder is about 20 bucks. Bench bleed it before installing. Probably worth replacing anyway, if it's not failed now it will be soon enough.
I'll get new pads for both sides. Never dealt with a master cylinder before so I'm going to "stick my head in the sand" on that until I get the brakes bled, pads replaced and "home job" alignment done. The tie rod ends are different from my 2000 Nissan Quest in that they are two sided....one attached to the knuckle and the other attached to an "idler arm." So I'll be loosening two nuts and turning the center part of the tie rod ends in one direction or the other.
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Old 10-18-2016, 05:42 PM   #26
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First off. finish bleeding the brakes. its unsafe to drive around even few feet, like that.

ive done many backyard alignments just to get me down the road better on cars i didnt really care about. drive straight for about 20ft, stop and look at the front wheels. Stand next to the wheel and look straight downward on it. look at the edge of the wheel, not the tire. kinda move, fore and aft of the truck like 6in. does the front edge of the wheel look cocked in or out?

Do the same on the other side. if one is not parallel to the line of the truck loosen the lock nut, and either put in or take out some slack. few threads at a time. 2 at max is a good number. If i recall properly, the steering linkage is in front of the centerline of the hub, so more-threads-showing = the wheel is cocked outwards more a the front edge. this is called "Toe OUT" less threads = Toe in. adjust slowly. drive around a bit, re-look. This will get you close but not perfect.
Street, I'm using a piece of aquarium tubing inserted into a gatorade bottle below accumulated fluid line so that no air comes back up the tube. Pumping in measures of 3, I used a ton of brake fluid and still didn't get all of the air out (in my original attempt where I just did the two front sides.) I bought more brake fluid today to do this, and I'm going to follow your suggested pattern and use just two pumps....and gravity, but I am wondering if I am doing something wrong....or could there be that much air in the lines? I had no problems with these brakes until I took the calipers, torque members, and rotor assemblies off to get the lower ball joints off and on.
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Old 10-18-2016, 06:47 PM   #27
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there can be a lot of air. sometimes if the bleeder hose isnt tight on the bleeder that can let air seep in too. a small hose clamp here can solve the problem.

im not sure im properly following what you mean by "bottle BELOW accumulated fluid line"

the container, or at lease a length of hose should rise ABOVE the caliper but below the master cylinder. theres a window of height that needs to be observed. most of the time i use a really long bleeder hose that i drape over the upper control arm then it runs down to the collection bottle on the ground.

If the line or bottle are too high, gravity wont push the fluid through the system. If theres no rise in height right after the bleeder, air will just float back into the bleeder/brake system.

Theres also some upper spot that needs to be bled. I cant remember what its called...its in the engine bay...little triangular block with a bleeder on it....crap.

Also, for clarity the gravity method is just to crack open the bleeder and because the master cylinder and reservoir are elevated, it creates a little pressure, with the bleeder open it pushes fluid out the bleeder.
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Old 10-18-2016, 06:58 PM   #28
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FYI the hosing that nebulizers (breathing machines as some people call them) use fit absolutely perfect on the hardbody brake bleeding valves just for anyone seeing this in the future. You can get the hose at pharmacies or if you have a bunch of asthmatics/etc. in your family like me, the stuff is just laying around everywhere.
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Old 10-25-2016, 08:12 PM   #29
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Just to update the thread....I "hybridized" on all of this good advice. I bought new pads from Rock Auto and was going to do the bleed sequence recommended by Street, but when I looked at all of the rust and dirt inside of the wheels on the back I decided to paint the PS fluid/acetone concoction on the front brake parts, being careful to keep the rotors clean. Since I didn't get any air from driver's side on the first bleed, I decided I would do it again and wait. Never did see the first air bubble on that side, so before I closed down, I adjusted my passenger side tie rod end to push "outward" by two threads. After test driving, the softness in the brakes is gone and....also just by luck, the problem with the right turn radius being impeded, if not solved, is better than it was. When I get some extra money, I'll pay to have a proper alignment done. I need to attend to the rust on the rear wheels, but that will have to wait for another day. Also, manual transmission fluid has been slow leaking for quite some time. I intend to take care of that next and would like to ask whether there is gasket associated with that drain plug. Also, I think I read elsewhere on this forum that I will have to "siphon pump" the new oil in. Any advice about the correct way to go about that whole process would be appreciated. Thanks all for your help!

Cheers, Reggie
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Old 10-25-2016, 08:51 PM   #30
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no to the gasket. its a pipe plug. be gentle with it. if you have the "female" plugs know that its not a half inch. its a true 13mm. half inch is really close to 12.5mm. this can cause it to be sloppy and round out if youre not careful.

no need for a siphon pump since theres a lower drain plug and an upper fill plug. however theres a know problem with some transmissions not having the fill plug high enough causing a low-oil condition destroying the bearings. the remedy is to overfill the trans. either though the shifter hole or jackup one side really high and overfill.

note, if you decide to pull the shifter theres no reason to labor under the truck with a fluid pump to fill to the fill bolt. just put it all in from the top.
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