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Old 05-19-2015, 12:47 AM   #11
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Nice write up. Why drill the brackets though? If you don't have the screws, Home Depot sells them. Just bring the bracket. Remember, the bracket mounts BEHIND the bumper tabs. You need to remove the square plastic screw clips from the bumper tabs first. Mounting them in front of tabs causes them to stick out too far and they will be damaged from a rogue shopping cart. Switched power can also be snagged from the cig lighter. I don't know what the wattage of the bulbs are, I never checked mine. None of my wiring gets hot though. I have checked several times. The glass lenses do get extremely hot though. I shut mine off in traffic.
My brackets did not fit behind the bumper tabs. There simply was not enough space between the tabs and the bumper brackets(these brackets are from Pathys which use different bumper brackets). The distance the lights stick out is negligible.
I got my switched power from the parking lights.
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Old 05-19-2015, 01:20 AM   #12
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Yeah I hear you on the mounting. It is tight. I originally bought a light set up from a guy on here who sent me all busted stuff (dcmawyer). Those brackets were drilled. I was able to get new brackets and i mounted them behind the tabs. The lights sit back about a 1/4" more. I sold the drilled ones to caddy. I don't know if you have the number for the protective covers, it is 999f1-aa001. They are about 6 bucks for the pair and they are still available. I got 2 sets. One set was plain black and one set had NISSAN in chrome. Again, real nice write up you made.
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Old 05-27-2015, 01:16 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djs View Post
Nice write up. Why drill the brackets though? If you don't have the screws, Home Depot sells them. Just bring the bracket. Remember, the bracket mounts BEHIND the bumper tabs. You need to remove the square plastic screw clips from the bumper tabs first. Mounting them in front of tabs causes them to stick out too far and they will be damaged from a rogue shopping cart. Switched power can also be snagged from the cig lighter. I don't know what the wattage of the bulbs are, I never checked mine. None of my wiring gets hot though. I have checked several times. The glass lenses do get extremely hot though. I shut mine off in traffic.
Drilling the bracket make for an easier set up by using the existing hardware on the hardbody bumper. You may be correct that it should mount behind, but would require additional steps like removing the fog light housing from the bracket and inserting the bracket from the rear of the bumper to achieve what you are stating, or at least thats the easiest way I could figure.

My only argument against that is by doing so, it limits you to use all the hardware from the pathfinder, which is not interchangeable because of the M10 vs M6/8 hardware used to attach the bracket to the bumper. The head of the pathfinder torx head isn't big enough to even secure the grey plastic housing to the bumper, so it would require use of a washer. Then I don't think its long enough, or at least the set I had wasn't. Additionally you'd want to have some sort of lock washer / nut on the rear of the torx going through the bracket (which essentially acts as its own nut I suppose because it is threaded).

The only thing about using all the available hardbody hardware is that I'd check or try to get a little longer M10s to secure the entire assembly together. I am noticing that when I check every week or so, they seem to be backing off a bit. Its OK for me, for I am somewhat of a PMCS nut (if you were in military you know what PMCS is), so weekly Im checking everything anyway.

You are right about switch power, just as long as its 12V that isn't constantly on. You want the power source to be "switched" itself like you did, but most wires available in cab are switched with the key anyway.

Now that everything is wired in properly, I haven't noticed the heat issue yet so much. Warm maybe, but doing just fine. I will say that I had to pry my lenses apart and clean the inside (-97 you know what Im talking about, lol). One was a little hazy from water sitting up in it. Well I cleaned that one and then the other needed it too, lol, so I took the other apart. I wasn't paying attention and used regular clear silicone to seal and adhere the lenses in. Once I was done did I notice it was rated for about 100 degrees or so it said on the label. I run them daily, in day and night and have no issues.

I am more that pleased with the results and am very happy I did get and install them.


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Originally Posted by 97stocker View Post
Great write up.

I'm glad I'm not the only one that discovered you have to drill the brackets out.
Long after I had installed mine, another member claimed he didn't have to drill his brackets out. But I was certain there was no way I could've made those torx head screws work. So I did the same exact thing.

If those are the blue bulbs that came with them, I'm pretty sure they're silverstars or something like that. I have the regular Sylvania H3 bulbs in mine and those blue ones were much whiter than mine when I tested those housings.

Glad you're happy with them.
Thanks -97. Yea after weighing the options like I said above, the best alternative for me was in front of the tabs. None of the hardware, in terms of screws, was going to work. Some people may be able to engineer a solution without having to do what we did, but I couldn't figure it.
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Old 05-18-2016, 04:56 PM   #14
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I've been thinking about installing fog lights too, my plan is to replace the front turn signals with fog lights and run the blinker through the corner lights instead, anyone see any issues from this?
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Old 05-18-2016, 08:54 PM   #15
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Nope, I've seen it done that way before too. Or rewire the turn and parks to blink alternately, that one is pretty cool. I think Rez put something up about that.
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Old 05-18-2016, 09:16 PM   #16
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I did the alternating blinker thing in my IH scout back in the day, it was pretty cool
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Old 05-19-2016, 04:51 PM   #17
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I would have, but I have LEDs, and they'll pop every time.
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Old 05-19-2016, 07:51 PM   #18
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Have you tried using an electronic flasher instead of the standard thermal type? That cured the issue up in my scout
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Old 05-19-2016, 07:58 PM   #19
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Been thinking about changing out the flasher, yes....to like a programmable style where they can fade in and out or pattern some kinda way (other than blinkblinkblinkblinkblink). I saw one on amazon for like motorcycles, but I just have to make sure the number of wires match I believe.
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Old 10-01-2017, 06:53 PM   #20
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Anybody else notice how the drivers side angles up with the factory? Was there something I was missing? It's not horrible but it's slight...
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