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Old 05-18-2015, 01:02 AM   #1
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Default How To: Install Factory Fog lights

Hello everyone reading this. Hopefully you have on hand, or have been considering upgrading your ride to include factory fog lights. If so, of if only just interested, please read on to see just how easy it is to install these lights in order to gain not only the functionality but to change the entire look of your front end.

First, you will need, the factory fog lights (to include the brackets), factory wiring harness (to include the relay which is a must), factory switch, knife/snips/hacksaw blade, Drill with 1/4 drill bit, M10 driver or large head Phillips screwdriver, and depending on your skill level; about 2 hours of time.

**Disclaimer** This short narrative/tutorial provided to forum members/guests as a means to help provide information and lessons learned from an actual installation. It in no means is to be considered "final word" and should be considered as informative only. Hardbodyhero will not assume any liability, in any sense, from a botched installation, whether performed intentionally or not, whereas damage to personal property or injuries sustained to self have occurred.

With that out of the way- On with the show-

My pre-installation setup, courtesy of 97stocker:



So as you can see, there isn't a lot of parts to worry about. Even if you do not have the black brackets that hide your cuts, you can still install them. If you are careful enough with your cuts, you more than likely couldn't tell that it was cut.

First, you will position yourself in front of the truck, You will want to remove the middle plastic portion of the turn signal "grille". At this time you will need the knife, snips, hacksaw blade, or whatever device you have designated to use for cutting. Follow the diagram below (mirror image for passenger side):



When completed you should see this (mirror image passenger side):



Now that your cuts are done, there is no turning back. At this point you have probably already set out your items and inspected them. If not, this is what you are looking at:

This is a "cross diagram" of the units when disassembled. They are H3 bulbs, which is probably something you will want to remember. Lamps housing and glass lens are intended to be one housing, however I was able to pry mine apart with some TLC in order to clean the inside of them. Wiring is super easy, black line in plugs into the only single wire from the lamp. Green plugs into the terminal ears that come off the lamp housing. Take note of the metal clips on the sides.



Notice the metal clips. These must come off in order to separate the lamp housing from the housing bracket, for when you need to replace the bulb. Removal is as easy as taking your screwdriver and placing it in the round hole. Place your thumb over the metal clip and pry off. If you don't cover the clip, it will fly off, trust me.

Another major point to note now is that the brackets at actually attach to the framework of your pickup are machined for a M6 or M8 torx head screw. I am not sure if this difference is because it came off a Pathy or because of the year. Either way, it will not work.



So, at this time, you will need to drill out the brackets so that they will work with your existing hardware. Use drill with 1/4 inch bit to complete. Just re-drill the existing holes. Should not prove difficult.

You are now ready to install. Remove the screws from the housing. If you are careful, there is no need to remove the entire assembly.



There will be enough play to pull the loose end out. Have the assembly in one hand, and pull back with the other. Place the fog light assembly in between the bumper mount and turn signal "grille" housing. Make sure that the holes all line up for now, then you can just let it sit there while you do the other side the same way.

** Note ** When mounting to the bumper mount, the fog light mount bracket will have the longer end facing toward the middle of the vehicle. If you are still confused, when looking at the fog light bracket, look at the ends. One end will be the same size all the way around. That is the turn signal side end. The other end has a thinner tapered bracket, then gets wider where it will attach to the mount. It also has a little square indentation in it, for whatever reason. That is the end that must face toward the middle of the truck.

When placing them in the general area, make sure that you take the wire harness and feed it through to the back side of the bumper, and if you have the room, in between the bumper and front air dam. Let it hang for now.



Now that you have both sides almost done, it is at this point if you are lucky enough to have them, time to install the front brackets that hide the cuts.

Before you begin, you will want to make sure you get the orientation correct. From what I hear, these are sought after, hard to come by, and depending on the condition may be brittle. Take care when installing and consider either painting them or re-plasticizing them with some element that can give them new life if you feel they will not last.

There is a big difference between the two. One end is more curved than the other. The curved end is for the turn signal side. You will not need to drill out the mounting hole. It will fit your M10 screw perfectly. When fitting into the area around the fog light, make sure you put the end facing the fog light in first, then hook the other end in (the end with the screw hole). You'll want to make sure that the ends of the brackets fit with the fog light first, otherwise if you force it, it may crack and break. If may not feel like it is perfectly seated but one you start screwing them in, they will move into place. Remember to never force anything. If you feel uncomfortable with it, take it back apart and start over.



Post fit:



At this time, you are almost complete with the physical installation of your fog lights. Make sure you line everything up perfectly and go ahead and screw them in. Take caution to not strip the plastic inserts that the M10s will screw into. It will be easy to do. The plastic is over 19 years old and there are only about 6 threads with will be available to screw in. You may also choose to to like I did and grind the back of them down to get you some more space to work with.

So now that they are mounted, I did a check to make sure they still worked. Wiring is as follows:

1. From lights, plug into harness.
2. From light harness wires go to relay.
3. From relay, there are a total of 4 wires requiring termination.
a. Black wire to positive terminal of battery.
b. Green wire to negative terminal of battery.
c. Green wire from relay to negative terminal of switch.
d. Yellow signal wire from relay to dash switch.

There may be more wires, but you wont need them, except for one, which I will cover in a second.

Wire test complete: "IN"side



So now its up to you, wiring under the hood or in the cabin. I will cover both briefly, but your passage to and from the switch is totally up to you.

Under the hood, as I had mentioned, Green goes to negative battery terminal and Black to the positive.

DO NOT WIRE THE POSITIVE TERMINAL UNTIL YOU ARE COMPLETE WITH YOUR ENTIRE WIRING JOB!!!!

From the relay, you'll want to run the wires in a way that allow you the best passage to the fog light harnesses, but do not get in the way of any other parts. For me, I ran it in between the radiator and overflow reservoir. Then went down in between the grille and radiator all the way to the bumper. From there I was able to plug into the harnesses without issue.



Obviously it did not stay like this, but this is representative of what it looks like when running it down in between the radiator and front grille.



Once you have the wiring complete under the hood, you will need to run it into the interior of the cabin to the switch. Your approach is totally up to you. I will now pick up on wiring for the switch.

Take note of the graphic below. If you were able to retain the factory switch, the wiring diagram is in the picture below.



This is very important. If you do not follow this, you either will cause failure of the switch, wiring, relay, or drain your battery. Worse, it could cause a fire.

As mentioned, the switch terminal labeled "+" is 12V in. It should not be a source of constant 12V power. If you decide to do this, the switch LED will constantly illuminate therefore a possibility of your battery draining will exist. Its best for this wire to be led to your park lights or headlights, so that it will light up with your lights, and turn off when you turn the lights off.

The other side of the "+" terminal, although not labeled negative, is the negative terminal. The only purpose of this terminal is to complete the circuit that illuminates the LED on the switch. Above the "+" terminal is the positive out. It will go to the yellow wire on the relay. This is the "remote wire" if you will that kicks the relay on to draw the current straight off the battery for the fog lights.

If you so desire to install without a relay or any other factory parts, please take caution. These factory switches were not meant to have this much power coursing through them and the possibility exists that it will melt down.

Easy enough, pop out the place holder, run the wires thought the hole in the background.



Choose your wiring path wisely in order to terminate your circuit completely. Once you are done and ensured that all your terminations are insulated, you may now attach your positive terminal to the battery.

Push the switch into the hole and you are done=

Special thanks to the regular forum members for continued support with all things Hardbody, Lowlife for always putting up with me, 97stocker for the great deal on the lights, and my extra special helper, my middle son-

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Old 05-18-2015, 01:05 AM   #2
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Weird that the black would go to the positive terminal?

Nice write up
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Old 05-18-2015, 12:09 PM   #3
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very good writeup. thanks a bunch. im doing this as soon as i get my bumper and wire harness. the only thing i would suggest is maybe trying to use a 12v switched power feed, provided you can find one that has enough amperage to run the lights.

that way if your in a hurry, there will be no dead battery later LOL

personal preference though.
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Old 05-18-2015, 01:00 PM   #4
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I feel you bro, and it is not without a sense of some guilt that I feel bad that I scored these before you. I know you're still looking for them.

I initially thought of doing the same thing, just wiring it straight through, but I will be honest, for others who are novices, they should take caution in their approach.

After running them for about 10 min, the black lead that supplies the power to the relay then out to the lights gets hot. I am sure its normal, but I don't have any other accessory that runs wires that hot, including my 500W RF P5002 amp.

For that matter, considering the existing wiring, which all of us agree was seriously under gaged, park lights and head lamps are what,??? A 12 or 10? These factory leads that came with the setup are about twice as large as the standard headlamp wiring.

I was limited to the amount of pictures I could put in the post, but before you start, make sure the part that the grey turn signal housing screws in with the two screws I indicated above have the plastic inserts for your screws. Its the same inserts that are used for the front bumper license plate screws, and probably the back too.
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Old 05-18-2015, 03:40 PM   #5
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what wattage bulbs are you using?
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Old 05-18-2015, 04:07 PM   #6
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Man, to be honest I dont remember. I know they are H3s, Maybe silverstar?
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Old 05-18-2015, 04:17 PM   #7
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was thinking if they were 100 watt bulbs may be why the wire is getting hot, those small lights shouldn't have higher than a 55 watt bulb in them.
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Old 05-18-2015, 07:37 PM   #8
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hardbodyhero the for sale area is first come first serve. i have all the stuff but the harness. the price was awesome, but i didnt really need all that other stuff so it would have been in the way.

if you see something you want, and this goes for everyone, if you are there and you see the deal and you got the cash, jump all over it cuz package deals like that do not show up often.

no hard feelings at all. the thing that got me was i was at home when that ad went live, but i didnt check the forums until the next day hahaah so its my fault i never saw the ad.
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Old 05-18-2015, 08:26 PM   #9
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Great write up.

I'm glad I'm not the only one that discovered you have to drill the brackets out.
Long after I had installed mine, another member claimed he didn't have to drill his brackets out. But I was certain there was no way I could've made those torx head screws work. So I did the same exact thing.

If those are the blue bulbs that came with them, I'm pretty sure they're silverstars or something like that. I have the regular Sylvania H3 bulbs in mine and those blue ones were much whiter than mine when I tested those housings.

Glad you're happy with them.
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Old 05-18-2015, 09:21 PM   #10
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Nice write up. Why drill the brackets though? If you don't have the screws, Home Depot sells them. Just bring the bracket. Remember, the bracket mounts BEHIND the bumper tabs. You need to remove the square plastic screw clips from the bumper tabs first. Mounting them in front of tabs causes them to stick out too far and they will be damaged from a rogue shopping cart. Switched power can also be snagged from the cig lighter. I don't know what the wattage of the bulbs are, I never checked mine. None of my wiring gets hot though. I have checked several times. The glass lenses do get extremely hot though. I shut mine off in traffic.
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