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Old 06-28-2018, 01:34 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by h.stickeye View Post
Doing your brakes and wheel bearings isn't hard. Just find a good step by step or get a mate to help.
Don't you need some sort of compression tool for the wheel bearings?
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Old 06-28-2018, 04:44 AM   #12
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Nope, just grease em properly by pressing lots of grease into your palm and push while turning the bearing into it.
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Old 06-28-2018, 04:53 PM   #13
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welcome to IN.
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Old 06-29-2018, 12:42 AM   #14
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Welcome to the site.
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Old 06-29-2018, 11:23 AM   #15
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The 1995 has a Round Tooth timing belt. It is supposed to be changed at 120,000 miles, so I really doubt it's been done - especially seeing how the previous owner had a rat's nest in the intake.

You could likely put off the timing chain job for a little bit, but since that belt is so old and it's about time, it should be on your "To Do" list for sure.

1st thing to do is use a timing light to set the ignition timing.

The next thing to do is pull the codes. The link in my signature below will give you a good "How To" on this. The ECU always assumes your timing is where it is supposed to be, so make sure your timing is at 14 BTDC (for the V6 - the KA24e 4-cylinder gets set to 10 degrees).

If you have no codes (Code 55 = all A-OK), then I would suggest you grab a can of Starter Fluid and make short squirts around the engine while it is running to see if you can find the vacuum leak.
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Old 07-03-2018, 08:31 PM   #16
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JP2Code.. are you saying that these ecu code is a good thing to do in general? or because it was having a hard time idling??? cuz the removal of the rats nest fixed that!

Also, Advice needed... im considering rebuilding the front end of this truck cuz its pretty F'd up... is that a job that could be done by a total noob?? or should i have my buddy mechanic do it for half the price of a shop??
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Old 07-03-2018, 08:41 PM   #17
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The ECU will create false conditions when codes are present. Different years cause different codes. There were only a few codes that caused the ECU to go into Limp Mode with the first On Board Data (OBD) ECU devices, but more as the years went on.

So, before trying to fix the problem, it's a good idea to make sure the problem is not something fake that the ECU is creating to get you to correct a sensor.

A noob can do the front end job. It is a lot of work, and that is why shops charge a lot for it. There are a few special tools you will need (like a pickle fork or ball joint puller), but you can generally buy these or borrow them from the auto parts store for a lot less than new would cost you.

Just don't skimp on your parts. Get some good, name brand stuff.

Moog sells a lot for the suspension on these trucks.

https://www.moog-suspension-parts.co...ickup_4wd_1995

Once you have the list of part numbers you want, search for those individually. Often you can find sites where someone is just trying to unload these "new old parts" (like on eBay).
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Old 07-03-2018, 08:58 PM   #18
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You need a press for the front end.
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Old 07-06-2018, 05:14 AM   #19
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WOO!!!! turns out i had frozen break calipers and that was causing the horrible pulling!!! classic shop out here lied to me saying i need an entire front end rebuilt.... i didnt think the rust was really that bad....

THING IS,

I just replaced my front two pads and calipers and bled them but the breaks seems soft still.... super spongy... any ideas?
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Old 07-06-2018, 06:18 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbylawn View Post
WOO!!!! turns out i had frozen break calipers and that was causing the horrible pulling!!! classic shop out here lied to me saying i need an entire front end rebuilt.... i didnt think the rust was really that bad....

THING IS,

I just replaced my front two pads and calipers and bled them but the breaks seems soft still.... super spongy... any ideas?
Yes. Bleed again. Unless you are losing brake fluid elsewhere than the bleeder screws, you have AIR in the lines somewhere. Sometimes it's tricky to drive all of it out, but you can do it. Alabama Lowlife, (site admin) knows the proper order to bleed the lines. Follow the order, works much better. Lot of lines, lots of places for air to hide. Buy another can of brake fluid and use a good assistant. Drive that rebel air to hell from front to back and OUT. Hunt it down and purge it like a red-haired stepchild.

Quote:
"Okay...pump, pump, pump...keep pumping!"

"I'm pumping!"

"Okay, HOLD! I'm turning the screw...take it to the floor."
(Pedal goes to floor, you see bubbles come out, you shut the bolt.) Then try, try, again.

When brakes are firm up above, you there. Check fluid after every third time on pump process. Don't get squirted in the face.
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