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Old 09-29-2018, 10:03 PM   #11
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Well, you could jack up the rear wheels, turn it on and drive it. I've done that twice in my carport taking it up to 50MPH to try to find a vibration in my drive train. The only thing is that it could only do it when there's an actual load on the drive train and not when the rear tires are off the ground. I also zip tied an old cell phone and video recorded the carrier bearing while driving. You could use a go pro as well. Be VERY careful if you decide to jack up the rear wheels and go that route. Check rock auto for a carrier bearing. They're usually cheaper and have wayyyy more options than your local parts store. There's also a couple of videos on youtube on some people changing out the carrier bearing...........
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Old 09-30-2018, 12:39 AM   #12
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Been having an on load acceleration rattle since I changed my primary pass. Cat, turns out the secondary has loose something in it, I'll find out what's going on when the replacement gets here.

Only found out due to lightly kicking parts of the truck while under it. Deadblows just didn't cause it.
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Old 09-30-2018, 10:34 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bodydub View Post
Well, you could jack up the rear wheels, turn it on and drive it. I've done that twice in my carport taking it up to 50MPH to try to find a vibration in my drive train. The only thing is that it could only do it when there's an actual load on the drive train and not when the rear tires are off the ground. I also zip tied an old cell phone and video recorded the carrier bearing while driving. You could use a go pro as well. Be VERY careful if you decide to jack up the rear wheels and go that route. Check rock auto for a carrier bearing. They're usually cheaper and have wayyyy more options than your local parts store. There's also a couple of videos on youtube on some people changing out the carrier bearing...........
Rock Auto is much cheaper than everyone else but the shipping is what kills it. $25 to ship one item from a different warehouse than the first item is ridiculous.
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Old 11-06-2018, 10:48 PM   #14
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I ordered 3 u joints and a carrier bearing. As I was removing the driveshaft from the truck, I noticed quite a bit of play in the rearend input. How much rotation is acceptable when turning this input? I'm getting a little over 1/4 turn from contact to contact. I'm going to go ahead and replace the joints and bearing since I'm already in this far in but I'm thinking the noise might be my rearend gears.

Another point of concern is how my truck locked up and drug a tire at maybe 3 mph pulling out of a parking lot over the weekend. The truck still rolled forward but one of my wheels didnt roll. There were no black marks on the pavement so that couldn't help me any. I know I need some front end repairs also because the tie rod is bad and it pulls slightly to the right so my alignment is bad but the steering wheel didnt yank out of my hand like I would expect it to if the front wheels were to blame in this.

Is this problem familiar with anyone?
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Old 11-06-2018, 11:17 PM   #15
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Is it a tin type rattle? Check your heat shields even ones welded on the exhaust.

you should have no play in a u-joint. you will have play/backlash in the rear axle, t/case and trans.
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Old 11-07-2018, 12:00 AM   #16
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It doesnt sound lightweight like a heat shield, it makes sounds like its something in the rolling assembly(driveshaft, trans, rear end, wheels, etc). At typical driving speed, the noise isnt there. Once I let off the accelerator, or when I'm at very slow speeds is when I hear it. When I hear it, I visualize it's the driveshaft clanking in the carrier bearing bracket or the u joints attempting to bind.

When I found the play in the rear end hearing, it made me consider that as the source. I could see the gears lashing like that once I let off the gas and it was no longer under constant load from the torque of the engine. When I first got the truck, I could smell a slight odor of gear oil like the trans or rear end would have but it went away within a few days.
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Old 11-08-2018, 10:40 PM   #17
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I got rid of the noise/clank/rattle. It was in the driveshaft. Now that I've got that fixed, the truck is more responsive and less "loose" when getting on and letting off the gas.

The downside is now that I've got that silenced, I can hear the other squeaks I have to fix...
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Old 11-08-2018, 10:55 PM   #18
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I got rid of the noise/clank/rattle. It was in the driveshaft. Now that I've got that fixed, the truck is more responsive and less "loose" when getting on and letting off the gas.

The downside is now that I've got that silenced, I can hear the other squeaks I have to fix...
You gotta get a louder radio lol
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Old 11-09-2018, 02:13 AM   #19
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You gotta get a louder radio lol
Yeah, no kidding. LOL GoFundMe, where you at?
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