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Old 06-07-2018, 05:15 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by urimashe View Post
oh and as far as checking the belt, that is something a mechanic could do for the inspection, but its a bit time consuming. they might not want to do it. that why i mentioned checking how many miles the dude put on that truck since he has owned it.

Alright I gotcha, thanks for the advice.
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Old 06-07-2018, 05:31 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by urimashe View Post
oh and as far as checking the belt, that is something a mechanic could do for the inspection, but its a bit time consuming. they might not want to do it. that why i mentioned checking how many miles the dude put on that truck since he has owned it.

Yup copy that, I just asked him that hopefully I get an answer back tomorrow and I'll report back here. Thanks man you guys are awesome.
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Old 06-07-2018, 07:08 AM   #23
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I wouldn't pay to have the belt checked. I would only pay to have it replaced. You could pay a lot of money for a 'check' and why bother. Might not tell you much. Belt is on there. It is still unbroken and on the gears. Big deal. You know that NOW.

If you pull the trigger, just go for the replacement.
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Old 06-07-2018, 09:30 AM   #24
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I wouldn't pay to have the belt checked. I would only pay to have it replaced. You could pay a lot of money for a 'check' and why bother. Might not tell you much. Belt is on there. It is still unbroken and on the gears. Big deal. You know that NOW.

If you pull the trigger, just go for the replacement.

Yeah that's a good point, thanks. I'm planning to check it out next week. I'll report back on what happens.

Last edited by ThermiteBasedToys; 06-07-2018 at 09:31 AM. Reason: Additional comment
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Old 06-07-2018, 09:45 AM   #25
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That’s all solid advice on the timing belt. If he can’t provide proof that it’s been replaced, you must operate under the assumption that it is due immediately. If you can use that to get him to come down a little on the price, great. If not, I’d probably get it at that price anyway. I’d expect a shop to tell you $6-800 for the replacement of the belt and all the pieces that are wise to replace “while you’re in there”
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Old 06-07-2018, 09:53 AM   #26
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You could save a lot of money, and ensure the belt is done right...by doing it yourself.

You will have to remove the radiator, some water hoses, your valve cover, some belt stuff, and the front cover with oil pump and distributor. It's not that technically difficult, but it is some work.

My standard advice on chain or belt replacements on Nissans: Do NOT drop the front cover. The aluminum will shatter after so many years of heat up/cool down. Do not overtighten your front cover bolts. That will crack the cover as well. Your front cover does not have to hold a lot of pressure. A carefully installed front cover gasket works very well for no leaks. The cover is fragile.

If you decide to switch out the belt and tensioner on your own, many here will support you on any questions.
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Old 06-07-2018, 01:33 PM   #27
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I've got a local import mechanic close to my house that did my timing belt for $450.

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You could save a lot of money, and ensure the belt is done right...by doing it yourself.
I would not say that. I had my engine out in front of me when I replaced the belt. It slipped twice as I was reinstalling it, and I was pretty sure it was Dead Nuts exact when I got the engine back in. It turned out it was still off a tooth, which is when I brought it in to that local import mechanic I mentioned above.

Deerhurst has also had his share of headaches working with that damn belt. The Service Manual leaves a lot of questions unanswered when it comes to that job, particularly because you start counting the teeth on the belt from a punchmark on the sprocket that does not even exist.

Here's a good read for you on the subject:

VG30E Timing Belt Replacement Guide and Questions

The initial post is what the Service Manual shows.

Post 2 in that thread is about a lot of questions I had when doing the job.
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Old 06-11-2018, 01:33 PM   #28
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Guys so I picked it up yesterday, I'm really happy and thanks all for the help about the timing belt, because of that I manged to get it for 2800 instead of 3g. It's really nice, interior is super clean and everything works on it. No rust from what I saw I can drove it around 40 miles home and it ran great played with the 4x4 as well and no clunks or weird noises. I can post pics a bit later.
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Old 06-11-2018, 01:41 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by ThermiteBasedToys View Post
Guys so I picked it up yesterday, I'm really happy and thanks all for the help about the timing belt, because of that I manged to get it for 2800 instead of 3g. It's really nice, interior is super clean and everything works on it. No rust from what I saw I can drove it around 40 miles home and it ran great played with the 4x4 as well and no clunks or weird noises. I can post pics a bit later.
Just get that timing belt job done soon, since it is of unknown age. If it is old and it breaks, your pistons are going to slam into the valves and destroy the engine.

Labor is the most expensive when doing the timing belt. Therefore, you should also replace the other wear parts that have to be removed anyway (water pump, timing belt tensioner, radiator hoses, and thermostat). Use new (not rebuilt) name brand parts. Generic and rebuilt parts tend to have varying lifespans, and none are as long as new, brand name parts.
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Old 06-11-2018, 02:16 PM   #30
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I think you did good man. That's a steal of a price. And yeah, as another V6 guy that's fought with that stupid timing belt, just pay someone to do it for you. If you feel like doing it yourself the next time it's due then go for it, but it's a real pain and you have to take half the truck apart to do it.


Me, DH, Caddy, and a few others here have pretty much done everything you can do repair/replace wise with a VG30i, so if you run into any questions we should be able to help you out.


If you're going to be wheeling, buy an extra steering idler arm and keep it in your truck with the tools to replace it. Also, check your tie rods, ball joints, CV boots, etc. If that stuff hasn't been replaced it'll probably need to be. The 4x4 parts for these are cheap and that stuff is easy to work on.


Does your truck have manual hubs or automatic hubs? If you have the automatic ones, I'd recommend taking them apart and cleaning/re-greasing them, then see if they work. If you're like most of us, they won't lol. Warn and Mile Marker make good manual hubs. I have the Warns myself.
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