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Old 06-09-2018, 10:08 AM   #21
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Another trick is to do your brakes fully....ONE side at a time. That way you can go back to the other one and look to see how it goes back together.

Back brakes last longer than front pads because when you stop, you also put most of the vehicle weight forward, wearing the front faster than the rear.
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Old 06-12-2018, 01:03 AM   #22
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i used the truck around the farm today, pretty short, heavy hauls, minimal breaking, no heat to the left pad by the end of the day, doesn't really say much. i will probably just find new calipers, but am curious whether or not the work i did actually freed up some minor build up from sitting so much this winter.


thanks for all the help in understanding this system.



now...

what's with the squealing belt sound when the steering wheel is turned to extreme left or extreme right? there is sufficient and clean power steering fluid...
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Old 06-12-2018, 01:04 AM   #23
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p.s. i still can't figure out the diagnostics, nothing seems to get the thing to stop flashing 11, 22, 33, 44, 55, 66 repeatedly into perpetuity....
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Old 06-12-2018, 01:36 AM   #24
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Your ECU is cycling through the different diagnostic modes repeatedly. It'll do that until you select one. The trick is to turn the dial or flip the switch back once it's on the one you want (in this case, probably 3 or 5). Jp2code has a good video in his signature on how to check codes.

New calipers are not too bad online...I think I paid around $70 shipped for both.

The belt squealing has to do with it slipping when there's an excessive load on the power steering system. You could try tightening up the belt a little bit and see if it helps. The noise could also be coming from the pump itself but that's usually more of a whine than a squealing noise. It's normal to have a bit of steering noise when the wheel is turned all the way in one direction.

Hope this helps!
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Old 06-12-2018, 03:09 AM   #25
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Link to video is below. Your ECU should be more like the video that Deerhurst provided, but I think my video goes into more detail.
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Old 06-12-2018, 05:26 AM   #26
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The old ECM like mine is very very simple and not well documented.



Yours is basically better than mine in every way. It also have 5 modes. You can monitor your A/F ratios, TPS, etc all the way to pulling codes. You can also do a remote code display. You will turn the dial to the mode you want then read what it shows you. The FSM should show that. I believe the Chilton's does too.



Mine has an unlabeled switch that you have to guess which way is codes. And your ECM has a bunch of internal improvements such as static memory. Mine forgets everything when you turn off the key. Yours can retain info. Stuff like that.
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Old 10-04-2018, 11:02 PM   #27
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hey there, gotta new question. fixed the brake issue by doing a rebuild on it.



now, what i am looking at is simple, probably need a new starter motor, but, obviously, wanted to ask first, if anyone has one for sale and second, is it the starter motor? or just a relay? or neither?


the only way i can describe the issue is by saying, sometimes when i try to fire the ignition, i just get a click in the relay area on the passenger side of the engine compartment. the truck pop starts just fine, trying to jump it doesn't do anything, so it ain't the battery, which i replaced... after pop starting it, it runs great, but doesn't usually start once turned off again, but, sometimes it does...


pretty simple, any thoughts? thanks...


anyone got any relays for sale either?
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Old 10-05-2018, 12:55 AM   #28
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It's probably the starter but rule everything else out first. If the relay is clicking when you turn the key then everything up to that point (ie ignition switch, clutch pedal switch) is good. A corroded battery ground can cause a no-crank if it gets bad enough. Another thing to check are the connections on the starter itself, the small trigger wire that activates the solenoid when you turn the key is a typical spade connector, make sure it's not loose or corroded. If you have a friend who can get in there and turn the key make sure the trigger wire is getting 12V at the solenoid, and that you are getting 12V at the starter lead. You can also take a screwdriver and very carefully energize the solenoid manually, if there's no clicking the solenoid is bad. Although at that point it doesn't really matter if it's the starter motor or the solenoid since they are both part of the same assembly.

Also, I know it's been mentioned on here before...sometimes tapping a failing starter with a hammer will get it to crank over one more time. As for the relays, you can get them at a junkyard for a couple bucks, it doesn't necessarily have to be from a D21/pathfinder either, it should be the same for most Nissans of this vintage. Keep in mind though, the starter relay is the only one of its kind on the truck and will not interchange with the smaller blue relays.
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Old 10-05-2018, 01:29 AM   #29
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about the only thing that kills these relays is moisture. if the housing is cracked, the relay will be dead soon.


JP is running my original starter relay from 1987. i changed it when my starter took a dump (as per nissan's suggestion) and it wasnt the relay. so i sold it to him for the low low.
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Old 10-05-2018, 03:16 AM   #30
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Its likely a starter. I have the original 1986 relay for everything in my truck. Beat it a little and if it works a time or two with a beating its toast.
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