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Old 05-02-2018, 07:20 PM   #11
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White lithium on the pins, I fought this myself. Your only having the issue on one side. You must grease the pins or the pads will not retract. I took my brakes off twice before finding it. I put it on the pins and the bolts.
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Old 05-05-2018, 05:01 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by cadillacdude1975 View Post
The one piece of advice I can give is NEVER get cheap with your brake repairs. That is a danger to yourself and everyone else on the road.
Oh, come on...what's wrong with just replacing the old brakes with a whole new setup...

That came from a completely totaled truck? Cheap!

Uh...wait a minute...truck was totaled? Uh, oh.
Wonder how that happened. Maybe the brakes failed.

Yea, I only did that one a couple of times. Back when I was working for nothing bucks an hour. You are right, not the greatest idea.
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Old 05-05-2018, 05:58 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XoXSciFiGuy View Post
Oh, come on...what's wrong with just replacing the old brakes with a whole new setup...

That came from a completely totaled truck? Cheap!

Uh...wait a minute...truck was totaled? Uh, oh.
Wonder how that happened. Maybe the brakes failed.

Yea, I only did that one a couple of times. Back when I was working for nothing bucks an hour. You are right, not the greatest idea.
Been there, done that. On my first car the brakes were completely fucked... I mean both of the calipers had seized and the pads were down to the metal and the rotors were almost worn into the fins. You know, when they stop squeaking followed by a brief period of silence before they start to grind. I was flat broke at the time and I figured since they were already completely fucked I wasn't going to damage the car any further by driving it like that. I did, however, make it a point not to drive during rush hour and to give myself plenty of space (not like that makes it okay or anything). Since I couldn't afford much in the way of gas either it mostly sat in the backyard until my summer job kicked in and I could afford to buy parts for it. Those were the days.

Cadillacdude is right...never cheap out on brakes. Now I always spend the extra money for ceramic pads and decent calipers/wheel cylinders that will last longer than their warranty period.

Last edited by SBJ; 05-05-2018 at 06:05 AM.
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Old 05-05-2018, 06:46 AM   #14
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Wrong thread. Edited.
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Last edited by XoXSciFiGuy; 05-05-2018 at 06:53 AM. Reason: Stupidity, basically...
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Old 06-08-2018, 10:48 PM   #15
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ok.


thanks again.


so, the hoses all check out, from the cylinder to the caliper. the problem is the calipers do not retract deep enough.


i took out one of the pistons in the caliper, it's twin caliper, and cleaned it, there was some rust in there, in the square edge, the divet that holds the rubber housing. i cleaned, didn't clean the other one because it's too much of a process and i was just hoping taking the thing apart, flushing the system and replacing the fluid would be enough, but it wasn't, it still sticks.


i don't have any lithium grease at the moment so i wasn't able to try greasing the pins for the pads, but i took the pads out and the calipers still don't retract, so i am guessing my only option is replace the pistons and their seals and housing in order to get a good brake again, or replace the caliper if i can find one, which i might be able to do out here.


i should say my goal in all this mechanic business is to use as much ingenuity as possible and spend as little money as possible and recycle as much material as possible while maintaining a solid vehicle...



but i bought a new battery, which was a great idea, the truck approves.


anyways, having said that, i am wondering if there's a sneaky kinda trick anybody's got to get this caliper grooving smooth.
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Old 06-08-2018, 10:52 PM   #16
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Quote:
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This is related to the brake booster and vacuum with the engine. A sudden weird surge to vacuum can cause the engine to shudder. Have you checked your brake booster, as well as the vacuum line connected to it...carefully? Is the vacuum line solid, and without brittleness and cracks?

thanks, i will inspect them more closely.
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Old 06-09-2018, 02:22 AM   #17
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As a Mechanic, most brake problems stem from poor brake service, the calipers should be cleaned, lubricated with a dielectric grease on the slide pins after cleaning them, the boots for the side pins should be inspected and cleaned or replaced. new hardware should be used when the pads are changed, and the rotors should be turned as well. NOT turning the rotors can cause noise, vibrations, uneven wear on brake pads, a shudder felt in the steering wheel when braking. a warped rotor can eventually lead to damage to the caliper from the vibrations if not serviced, As stated, poor brake service and parts can lead to someone getting hurt.

Now Also as stated by other members above, the rubber brake lines in the system can become clogged due to the deterioration of the hose on the inside which happens when moisture, solvents, and oils contaminate the fluid, fluid contamination is mostly recognized in brake fluid as a darkening of the fluid, this darkening of the fluid is not caused by the fluid "heating up" DOT 3 brake fluid is hydroscopic, this means it absorbs moisture. with out a proper cap, moisture from the air is being sucked in to the brake system, this can cause the internals of the brake system to corrode, causing many many issues, such as clogging the brake lines. clogged brake lines can lead to locked up brakes.
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Old 06-09-2018, 02:26 AM   #18
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properly take off the calipers, clean them, inspect them for damage, check the piston for pitting on its sides. does it show signs of leaking? any of these things is a sign the caliper should be replaced. i do not recommend junk yard calipers, as they have usually been sitting for a long period of time, and as i said before, brake fluid is hydroscopic. this means those calipers sitting at the junkyard has had moisture enter the system.

replace the rubber brake lines, with your cap being missing, high chances are the fluid has been contaminated for some time, better safe then sorry, replace them.

if you have the money, buy a higher quality line, they are usually stronger material and are less likely to clog.
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Old 06-09-2018, 02:38 AM   #19
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As for brake pads, and rotors, if your going to get a rotor, might as well get oem ones, they are usually the best for the vehicle, Alot of people will swear by slotted rotors, or fancy slotted vented or drilled ones. these rotors are more likely to warp when they eventually heat up. Not only that, but they are more likely to cause your brakes to lock up on a hard braking situation, lock up on slippery roads is a bad thing, you want a controlled brake to avoid an accident.

usually there are 3 choices for pads. ceramic, metal, or organic. Ceramic brake pads are quiet brake pads, they do grip well as well, but they don't like high heat, they tend to fade after hard braking and they wear out faster and leave brake dust behind. organic or "hybrid" pads, are a misture of metals and fiber materiel, these are ment to be a best of both worlds type of pad. they dont wear out quickly and they are not too noisy, but noisyer than ceramic, they have slightly better brake hold then ceramic. the downside to organic is they also leave alot of brake dust behind, they wear faster then metal pads, and you can hear them more then ceramic. Metal pads are the best at braking strength, but, this can cause lock up faster in a emergency braking situation, they do not wear out as quickly as ceramic or organic. the downside to metal is they are noisy, you are going to hear these brakes, moisture in the morning is going to cause squeaking. as this is a metal pad it is going to wear down your rotor faster then the other two brake pads. metal does not dust up as much as the other two, but the dust it does make is well.. metal, and can dig itself in to rims over time, staining aluminum rims over time.

i recommend organic, as they are the best of both worlds and are a good general brake pad for running around town.
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Old 06-09-2018, 02:50 AM   #20
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IF your going to service your drums. when removing the drum, take a picture of how every piece connects to each other. this will help when you put the new hardware in. always get new hardware when installing new shoes. hardware is cheap, the old ones will be worn out, there is not alot to this hardware, so corrosion will have taken its toll.

inspection of the wheel cylinders is much the same as the fronts, if it leaks, replace them as they are not as expensive as a caliper, or at least it should not be.

shoes have the same options as brake pads, but on drums, i would choose metal if available, the reason for this is the shoes are usually always making slight contact with the drums as this is how the automatic brake adjusters set the shoes after each use of the parking brake (using your parking brake is important, as this keeps your rear shoes adjusted to the drums to account for wear). metal will last longer with this constant contact. drum brakes work 3 different ways, but i will skip the explanation on the other 2 and focus on ours. our drums are designed so that when the brakes are applied, the wheel cylinders push out the tops of the shoes, the shoes make more of a contact, the bottom wedge keeps the bottom parts of the shoes apart, when the shoes grab the drums, they rotate ever so slightly and bite in to the drum. this type uses the rotational momentum of the drums to help stop the vehicle. the downside to this style drum is its mostly directional, these drum brakes don't hold well in the backwards direction, as they are usually designed to bite more in the forward direction. but it works great for parking brakes, if they where adjusted properly.
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