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Old 04-28-2018, 02:06 AM   #1
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Sheep an assortment of questions and answers that will hopefully end in clarity and repairs

here, i will start this off with this question about my front passenger side brake sticking.
it sticks after about 5 miles of driving with some braking... it gets hot, it stinks, because it's stuck.

http://www.infamousnissan.com/forum/...ticking&page=3

this person seems to have changed his caliper and bled out his fluid. i am just wondering if i am going to have to do that too, or if there are some checks i can go through to identify the problem, honestly, the fluid is clean and clear, the clutch fluid is grey, but the brake fluid is clear...

one issue is that the cap for the brake master cylinder (where the fluid goes) is a piece of tin foil with some sticky shit and a piece of metal wire wrapped around it... i just added that metal wire and haven't done a test drive since... can a poor cap cause sticking?

how do i check the hoses?

the brakes feel fine, no squish or sponge, i know bad brakes...

something else that seems strange, is, sitting and idling, if i depress the brake completely, when i release it, the engine shudders a bit. which i hope doesn't mean the master cylinder is going out.

anyways, help is always appreciated, especially because there's about to be morels way up the rough country and i'd like to go find a few.
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Old 04-28-2018, 02:18 AM   #2
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what amount of amps should a battery be putting out when the engine is running? is 13.76 too low?
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Old 04-28-2018, 02:20 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nothingtoseehere View Post
what amount of amps should a battery be putting out when the engine is running? is 13.76 too low?

nevermind, here's this answer to that: my.cardone.com/techdocs/PT 77-0009.pdf

2. No-load battery voltage should be 12.46 to 12.66 volts.
3. Cranking voltage must be 9.5 volts or higher.
4. Charging voltage from 13.2 to 14.7 and charge current within
10 amps of related alternator output.
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Old 04-28-2018, 02:41 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nothingtoseehere View Post
one issue is that the cap for the brake master cylinder (where the fluid goes) is a piece of tin foil with some sticky shit and a piece of metal wire wrapped around it... i just added that metal wire and haven't done a test drive since... can a poor cap cause sticking?
I've read that brake fluid can absorb moisture, which is why the cap makes an air tight seal.

That info could be full of crap, though. I really don't know much about brakes.

If you need a new brake booster cap, send david29 a message (click the link) to see if he has something. He's got lots of Hardbody parts, and he is a helluva lot cheaper than you will find anywhere else.
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Old 04-28-2018, 08:15 AM   #5
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'something else that seems strange, is, sitting and idling, if i depress the brake completely, when i release it, the engine shudders a bit. which i hope doesn't mean the master cylinder is going out...'
This is related to the brake booster and vacuum with the engine. A sudden weird surge to vacuum can cause the engine to shudder. Have you checked your brake booster, as well as the vacuum line connected to it...carefully? Is the vacuum line solid, and without brittleness and cracks? Does it have good clamps attached to it?

Start by replacing the hose with some generic NEW hose, and installing good screw clamps to both sides of it. It's cheap to do, less than ten bucks. Take off the hose, bring it to the parts store for comparison, match it up as close as possible to some generic hose you buy by the foot, and buy the corresponding clamps. If they can't match the hose diameter exactly, buy the next larger size as long as it's not TOO large. Install the new stuff. Tighten down the screw clamps real good.
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Old 04-28-2018, 01:53 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nothingtoseehere View Post
here, i will start this off with this question about my front passenger side brake sticking. It sticks after about 5 miles of driving with some braking... it gets hot, it stinks, because it's stuck.

The clutch fluid is grey, but the brake fluid is clear...
Your front brakes might just need servicing. Someone needs to remove the calipers and inspect/clean all the parts. New pads, maybe new rotors, maybe rebuild or replace the calipers if they're leaking inside the boot. Calipers can be rebuilt cheaply if the bore and piston look OK.

Grease where necessary and reassemble. A good fluid bleeding and your brakes should return to normal.

If both right wheels are sticking, you'll need the same effort done on the rear axel as well.

Grey clutch fluid should be bled out of the system.

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Old 04-28-2018, 02:44 PM   #7
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check the slide pins on the caliper, maybe dry or damaged
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Old 04-28-2018, 11:39 PM   #8
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first thing i would do is replace the rubber line on the brake that is getting hot. that is the problem 7 out of 10 times.
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Old 04-29-2018, 02:00 AM   #9
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If you need a brake job, and you're on a budget, one way is to go to the wrecking yard and find a caliper/rotor setup where the brake pads are still good...and then just buy the whole thing as a set. Install that. Bonus is that you can keep the old setup as a spare, and you don't have to install new pads. I've actually done this a few times. Sometimes you find a rig with good brakes, but they blew the engine or wrecked the truck. Maybe you can even take the hose with you, maybe even the brake cylinders.
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Old 04-29-2018, 05:14 AM   #10
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The one piece of advice I can give is NEVER get cheap with your brake repairs. That is a danger to yourself and everyone else on the road.
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