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Old 06-06-2018, 09:59 PM   #21
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Ect engine coolant temp sensor, so during my lunch break i got the vehicle to tdc compression stroke, took the distributor out, aligned the proper marks in the procedure, sloted it in, as the gears meshed in the rotor turned to face around the number one piston. According to the fsm, this is correct, except that the fsm says the distributor cap is only supose to have 2 screws, mine has 3. This is confusing, also the distributor cap says number one should be facing more twords the back of the engine, according to its labeling, and there is only one way the cap can go on. Is the fsm wrong? I checked all data, and they refrence the fsm material. What am i doing wrong gentlemen? (btw, tried to start it, was a no go, vehicle did not like the fsm procedure)
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Old 06-06-2018, 10:29 PM   #22
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What section of the FSM was this in?

I can look in the many different versions that I have to see if there are differences.

I'm going to start looking for it in the Engine Mechanical (EM) section. If I don't find it there, I'll go to the Engine Fuel & Emission Control System (EF & EC).
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Old 06-06-2018, 10:40 PM   #23
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The only thing I found in the Service Manual about the distributor was the part about the Crank Angle Sensor.

Where are you looking?

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Old 06-06-2018, 10:45 PM   #24
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It's almost 5, and I'm about to leave work.

I won't be home until after 9 tonight.

Hopefully, someone can chime in with some information. I can't even get a picture right now (in the car).
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Old 06-06-2018, 11:09 PM   #25
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its in engine mechanical, im looking for the info on installing the distributor.
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Old 06-06-2018, 11:11 PM   #26
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it seems to be off, im a mechanic by trade and its even confusing me, the pictures don't seem right, nor the procedure, heck, the distributor cap has 3 screws and 3 tabs for the screws as well as the distributor, but the fsm says 2 screws, and the cap looks different, maybe I should look at my chiltons manual too.
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Old 06-07-2018, 02:45 AM   #27
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Just sanity checked my dizzy. 2 screws in opposing corners.



You'll have to pull out a meter and find what contact in the cap is #1.
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Old 06-07-2018, 04:11 AM   #28
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Who knew the fsm was wrong? lol, ok so I run in to wrong fsm at work all the time, it happens, but with nissan? several consecutive years in a row? or did someone get lazy?

Anyways, i figured it out, and i can snap a picture tomarrow at work for the correct distributor alignment and rotor placement, the part about the mark on the shaft and the indentation on the distributor is correct in the fsm. i lined it up and placed a mark where the rotor points when you do this (dont know why nissan just didnt do that in the first place) and after work i sat in the parking lot of work for an hour taking out the dis, lining it up and meshing the teeth together, then starting the truck and seeing how she ran, twisting the distributor to see if it changed. first time i must have been several teeth off, backfired on both ends, that is a no no.

Second attempt i was only a tooth off i think, because i could get it to run, but was right back to the original concern, so i took it out one more time, this time i positioned it one more tooth clockwise, this placed the rotor pointing just after cylinder one on the cylinder 3 side, (this does not match the picture in the fsm, picture in fsm looks parallel to the front of the engine, (least what looks like the front as they dont label the front of the engine in the picture with an arrow).

I started the vehicle again with it in this position, by this time the engine is hot, so it does not take much for it to go in to closed loop. BAM, what do you know, it idles fine, the vehicle has instant (or well, almost instant, and a hell of alot better) throttle response, the backfiring on deceleration is also gone.

i did not have time to properly time her with a light after i seem to have fixed this issue, but i will on lunch or after work tomorrow, maybe even take it for a test drive.

If all goes well i will be able to clean up the mess i made of the harness and give the engine a bath before i take on the challenge of taking off the exhaust manifolds and fixing all of the broken studs (yes, all, as in multiple, 2 per side at least). I might actually hold off on fixing the leak at the manifolds until i can order a set of headers, i like the idea of only fixing broken studs once. I know switching to bolts can help solve the issue, but i think manifolds just expand and contract way too much.
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Old 06-07-2018, 04:16 AM   #29
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now that i think about it. let me know if you guys want that picture of tdc rotor and distributor alignment on the 3 bolt distributor. (i dont know if the vg30 actually has a 2 bolt distributor cap. all the ones ive owned, vg30i pathy, and a vg30e pathy, have had 3 bolt distributor caps.) though i will not be taking the distributor out just to take the before picture. LOL
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Old 06-07-2018, 04:18 AM   #30
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Mine's got 3 bolts on the distributor.

Can't get my pic to upload right now. Slow network.

Is this the distributor section, EM-35?

Could it be possible that your timing belt has slipped? That does happen, especially as the tensioner starts to go out. How many miles are on your timing belt? The square tooth is supposed to be swapped out every 50k miles or so. The round tooth is good for 100k miles or so.

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