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Old 10-04-2018, 05:46 AM   #1
scoobysmak
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Default Well after sitting for over two years, jog my memory

Well my 1990 KA24 sat in the driveway for two years. Needless to say I was just glad it started much less how it ran. The battery was toasted and I had a spare to put in its place. Besides that all I did was start it at first. Just as a note, I can not drive the truck, the rear axle went bad and the drive shaft is disconnected.

After I installed the spare battery I got dash lights, yaaaa. I went ahead and turned to ON, got some strange noise as the fuel pump was running. Sounding kinda like someone trying to get the last drop of milkshake from the bottom (best description I can think of at the moment). This noise seem to come from under the hood, not the gas tank. After the fuel pump cut off I cranked it, it started right up with with plenty of timing chain rattle for a few seconds (not shocked). I have plenty of fuel in the tank (may not be good but its there).

This is where I don't want to start chasing my tail. I have quite a few "hummm" things that it could be. From time to time I hear a sucking noise sounding like from under the air filter. After it was warm the idle fluctuates about 200 RPM up and down, rather slow. Takes about 5-8 seconds to run up and back down. I accidentally found that I had a wasp nest in the tailpipe (don't ask me how I found that out). It also seemed to have a hydraulic lifter tapping, I added some Lucas oil like I did before. It seemed to calm this but it didn't completely go away. Hard to hear over the engine having a misfire.

The engine has a miss at all speeds, idle it runs the worst but even if I rev it up there is a miss that never goes away (not sure RPM I ran it up to but I would say it hit at least 4500 RPM with no load). I put a timing light to see if any cylinder wasn't getting spark, they all had spark. The engine heated up normally other than the missing cylinder. I would have spent more time troubleshooting but due to the mosquitoes trying to carry me off and the wasp that got up my shirt and started an onslaught of revenge for killing his brothers I was done. I went inside.

Where to start in my mind:
1. Pull the codes just to see, if I have any start there first
2. Check the timing, see if its off
3. Pull the spark plugs to see if any of them are screwed up
4. Check for air leaks, I would place my bets I have at least one
5. Check the MAF sensor, printed out the easyautodiagnostics test
6. Run a compression test and leak down test, I doubt this but just for kicks

This is the list of shotgun solutions to purchase (if I don't find something obvious from the above list):
1. Fresh fuel, maybe injector cleaner
2. Replace all vacuum hoses
3. New spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor
4. New MAF sensor

After this I will be lost on where to go, maybe messing with it will jog my memory.
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Old 10-04-2018, 10:55 AM   #2
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I’d start with clean fuel, fuel filter, and clean spark plugs to see where that gets you.
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Old 10-04-2018, 11:35 AM   #3
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With the engine running, you can pull one spark plug wire at a time (get ready to receive light ZAP). If one cylinder is not firing, you will not notice any change in the RPM when you pull that plug.

Just be sure to reattach the plug wire before going to the next one.
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Old 10-04-2018, 06:34 PM   #4
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run a can of seafoam in the fuel...........the gas sitting in there that long might be part of the idle problem.
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Old 10-05-2018, 01:32 AM   #5
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hey Kev..........gimmie a shout when the weather finally snaps into the cool october days. one weekend we can sling that spare rear end in that truck.



im not fan of this 90 degree weather in october. it has been a brutal humid summer. i am ready for the low 50 degree nights and low 70 daytime temps.
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Old 10-05-2018, 02:24 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jp2code View Post
With the engine running, you can pull one spark plug wire at a time (get ready to receive light ZAP). If one cylinder is not firing, you will not notice any change in the RPM when you pull that plug.

Just be sure to reattach the plug wire before going to the next one.
Due to a few medical conditions get a ZAP is the last thing I need, one light zap could lead to a big ZAP. I was just going to pull them one by one and start it up after each attempt. Figure it won't run on 2 cylinders anyway.
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Old 10-05-2018, 03:51 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scoobysmak View Post
Due to a few medical conditions get a ZAP is the last thing I need, one light zap could lead to a big ZAP. I was just going to pull them one by one and start it up after each attempt. Figure it won't run on 2 cylinders anyway.
Oh yeah.

Well, invite a friend over and buy the beer.
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Old 10-05-2018, 03:35 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jp2code View Post
Oh yeah.

Well, invite a friend over and buy the beer.
Hey Caddy??? Just kidding.
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Old 10-06-2018, 01:07 AM   #9
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been zapped before. it just makes me say filthy words.


it wont hurt to take the wires off one at a time and check the resistance with an ohm meter. check the reading and see how far apart they show.
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Old 10-06-2018, 03:38 AM   #10
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Went outside to get carried away by mosquitoes, I pulled the wire from #1 cylinder. Ran the same with no plug wire as it did before. I think I found the problem cylinder. I pulled the plug and it was dark but nothing to keep it from working. I changed the plugs from cylinder 1 and 2 and left the plug wire off plug 1. Ran the same. I pulled the cap to look at the cap and rotor. Both looked almost new.

I did not use an ohm meter but the spark plug wire looked good on both ends, doesn't mean it is good though.

I am trying to think of anything that would cause cylinder #1 from not firing. If I had coil on plug I would understand but unless the rotor, cap, or wire is bad and not detectable from a "look over" I am little concerned about finding the problem. Is there any vacuum leak that would cause #1 to be a "dud."
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