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Old 05-26-2017, 09:42 AM   #1
redness1
 
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Default carby problems z24

Driving home yesterday I pulled up at an intersection and noticed that my ute was revving a bit high and then when I went to take off and noticed at the very start of the throttle the engine almost died. Went for a drive today and had the same problem but I'm pretty sure its only when the engines warm so I took the air cleaner off and had a look at the carby and played with the butterfly in the pic and it fixed the problem instantly. Can anyone tell me what the butterfly does and should it be really stiff? (I have absolutely no idea about carbys).
Also sprayed a heap of carby cleaner in it before my drive today as it was filthy (pic was taken before I cleaned it) hoping to solve the problem with no luck

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Old 05-26-2017, 11:28 AM   #2
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step 1; scrap the shitbox hitachi carby and put on a weber, problem solved.
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Old 05-26-2017, 11:47 AM   #3
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step 1; scrap the shitbox hitachi carby and put on a weber, problem solved.
Have you done the conversion and is it hard?
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Old 05-26-2017, 03:45 PM   #4
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It's a direct bolt on for yours. The Z24i guys have issues modifying the intake manifold to make it bolt up, but they make an adapter for the Z24 manifold to make it bolt directly in.
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Old 05-26-2017, 08:42 PM   #5
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Will look into it once I finish the motor swap and get the other ute registered and get some more cash flow but need to keep the engine running between now and then
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Old 05-26-2017, 09:15 PM   #6
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Have you done the conversion and is it hard?
yes, look at my pics.

you should get an adapter plate with your kit.

sometimes they give you an odd one and you have to redrill mounting holes on the adapter plate, especially if you want the throttle cable facing towards the front. dont skimp on the gasket sealer, but dont go overboard obviously (keep it clean as well), as I found the mounting plate and gaskets are a little on the smallish side. You will know if you havent got a good seal from the first time you rev it hard, or so I've heard.

i did mine all in for 500 and 4 hours. i bought mine directly from weber Australia, dont buy one from ebay: http://www.weberperformance.com.au/p...oducts_id=1239

the one i bought was the DGV 32/36, which means it is completely mechanical setup now. You have to hold the key just before turning over and pump the gas pedal to get the fuel pump to fill the carby bowl. also means that in cold cold weather, so im talking 5 and below, worse if you get down to -10, it would be fairly hard to start. maybe lots of cranking to get some heat in there, but im in QLD, so it never gets that cold here! hahah

i did this about 3 years ago and it runs like a friggin champ.

fuel consumption will go up slightly due to having more power. you will gain about 20-50 ponies out of this, depending if you got a nice flowing exhaust setup, modded cam, new plugs, electric distributor etc. however, you can learn to drive very fuel efficient as the weber provides smoother delivery of power. Some people complain of a 'dead spot' when taking off in first gear, but really you just gotta get used to being a bit more aggressive on your take off's as the weber will require a little more gas to clutch ratio than the hitachi.

I wasnt able to get my idle adjust linkage kit installed for whatever reason. So, due to this, because i have aircon, I had to get a really really good tune so my idle under that load would be acceptable. lucky i have an ex dakar rally driver/mechanic now, who really knows how to tune carbied engines.

oh, and before i forget, when you smash the gas in 2nd gear and really open up the 36, your truck will make some satisfying sucking sounds and will really go! you'll think you've put a little turbo on it, which might as well be the case considering how much of a dunger those hitachi's were.

And very last reason to get a weber, and probably most important. now you have modern technical support for a very well known and respected carby that can be fixed by yourself with ease, and any parts are easy to get.

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Old 05-28-2017, 09:11 AM   #7
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OK so problem solved (for now) I found out after much stuffing around and swearing that where the throttle cable goes through the firewall was broken and the black casing had bunched up a little bit holding the throttle open so I just cut the casing off where it was bunching up and put it back in the hole and taped it up
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